Seized final Drive Splines 2016 gs 1200 adv lc

Big Jets

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My friend called me today ,to give him a hand his final drive and shaft are seized solid at the shaft and wont budge ,ended up with thehe full shaft and the final shaft removed from the bike still cant get it off ,gona leave it steeping in release fluid overnight see if this helps ,anyway I always thought the front UJ at the gearbox out put shaft was held on with a circlip but his just pulled off the gearbox very easily .Anybody had the full shaft off a 1200lc and should there be a circlip .Cant believe how seized up this is
 
Apparently they don't seize........

No, you don't need to do any of this, they dont sieze at all, metal to metal is good, and they don't wear out :green gri


Now back to reality
Yes, leave it overnight and let the oil do its magic.. don't force it too much, keep soaking it.

You may have fun getting the shaft back up.. if you do take off the bottom shock bolt and jack the shaft up a bit ... this will help :)
 
Cheers beaver I strapped the bike to the bike lift and jacked the rear end up to straighten the swing arm out a bit ,now to get the fecker off cheers again .Sad state of affairs on a 4 year old bike .
 
sad state of affairs? maybe for a poorly maintained bike......
 
My friend called me today ,to give him a hand his final drive and shaft are seized solid at the shaft and wont budge ,ended up with thehe full shaft and the final shaft removed from the bike still cant get it off ,gona leave it steeping in release fluid overnight see if this helps ,anyway I always thought the front UJ at the gearbox out put shaft was held on with a circlip but his just pulled off the gearbox very easily .Anybody had the full shaft off a 1200lc and should there be a circlip .Cant believe how seized up this is

I had this happen when my 2017 bike went in for a 6000 mile service last year at Bahnstormers, they could not get it detached and ended up fitting a complete new shaft drive under warranty. The bike had less than 6k had never been off road or under water, kept garaged , never jet washed and I had had no problems with it at all, still haven’t really.
 
Just did my 2016 GSA - some rust but was completely dry though there was some of the waterproof grease on the bellows. Bit apprehensive doing the job as it was my first time but it was a doddle really.
 
Just put it back together ,Still seized rock solid ,think a wee heat would be needed but we didn't fancy it near the uj and the rear drive seal ,put it back on we will just have to cross that bridge when its required
 
If you don't mind me asking what does the shaft need to come out for, is it on the service schedule or was there a technical problem ?
 
Mine was the same (2016 bike) wont go into it too much because I already wrote chapter and verse on another thread and all the "experts" tell me I was having some kind of drug induced dream because this didnt ever happen to BMW bikes). However I pulled the whole shaft out attached the final drive like you because i couldn't split them - sacrificed the rubber boot that was in good condition so that I could get a cold chisel between the UJ head and the end of the spline - used Freeze spray that has a penetrating oil in it - supped a couple of cans before it gave any - but it was a real hard thing to separate. It was dry and rust welded all the way to the end. Once off I used a dremel and a mini wire brush to clean all the splines (Male and Female) and new rubber boot and plenty of moly grease and then the white Moly paste to seal the boot.

Was a fair job but in the end sorted it - if it had been under warranty I would have been pushing for a new shaft and final drive but I only took the first year of the extended warranty.

Not a service item via BMW dealer but I have decided to set this as a 12 month repetitive job so that it keeps it free and removable.

Dont think it is too much of a detriment to the bike it not being done just means you have to pull the hole shaft out if you want to do anything like change a split rubber boot. (By the way mine originally was in perfect condition so the water ingress didnt come from there.)

Anyway good luck with it.

Rik
 
It is threads like this that shows that you should be sceptical with a fair bit of the information and advice you receive on sites like this.

Sieve through the posts and pick out the ones written by those who seem to know what they're talking about. I.e.people who do their own work or see it first hand.
 
If the rear drive ever needs replacement bearings or you needs re painting or fails and you want to replace it..... not having a rusted sized driveshafts makes life so much easier.

If nothing goes wrong then happy days but as theses bikes age and increased mileage we will see more maintenance required to the rear drive.
 
If the shaft is seized solid and u cannot part then leave alone. If u van get it apart foc the sake of 30mins a year it well worth lubricating
 
According to onahi

I've never said they done seize ?
Be interested to see where you have got that from.
What I say is "It doesnt matter" even if it does. My van and cars I dont check for seized shafts. And has anyone on here posted where a seiezed shaft has done anything? Wheres all the posts ? "My bike shaft has seized and fuc ked my bike" ?
 
Mine 'ate' the rear rubber gaiter from the inside. Thats how I knew it was fecked. After a lot of heart ache I got BMW UK to replace shaft and final drive as a good will gesture.

It seems to me that the UJ was 'bending' up towards the top of said shaft and muching the gaiter...... It was subtle and then a small hole appeared.

I explained all this in nauseating detail to BMW and sent this picture and they paid up.
 

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.... it's the other way round....

The 'well sealed' gaitor is sucked onto the spinning shaft drive knuckle as the swing arm moves up and down on the suspension. Acts like a bellows.

The metal bar on the inside of the rubber gaitor is supposed to stop that happening, but it doesn't always.
 


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