1150gs adv No fuel to injectors

( the fuel pump prime at initial key on is built into the Motronic unit and is a separate occurance)
Of course! Hadn't occurred to me. Good to know.


The standard test with HES is to rotate the engine - ign on, plugs removed - and the fuel pump should prime. Not 100% conclusive though.
The results of the test on the injectors posted earlier is a bit suspect. Elec signal, fuel supply not detected reliably with each test. Is that still the case?
 
well two pickups in the HES

one sparks the spark plugs at some point in the engine revolution

the other opens the injectors for a moment at some point in the engine revolution.

If you are lacking injector function AND spark, that seems a likely place to look.

assuming you have ruled out side stand switch, and or fickle wires at the ignition switch ( which would also negate spark and fuel)
 
The bike has simple engine management system. A Wasted Spark. What this means as Matt (Mouthfulloflake) has explained, is the hall sensor controls the timing for the spark and the fuel injector. What you need to know, is that on one rotation of the engine. Both the left and right sparkplugs fire at the same time. Also both the left and right injectors open at the same time. When this happens only the cylinder in compression will go bang.

My money is on the HES. However, because you or somebody has been fiddling with the motronic, which is normally extremely reliable, all bets are off.

You could try this:-
Take the right spark plug out and connect it to the stick coil and make sure the plug is grounded.
Take the left injector out and place it in a suitable clear container. Try and seal the injector in the container for added safety.

Ignition on and Turn the bike over. A serviceable HES will give a spark on the right plug and open the left injector. The fuel pump will also be heard running.

To eliminate the unlikely possibility that you may have failed stick coils, then you could try this procedure using the lower secondary plug.

However, even this check will not be conclusive, if you have a faulty HES, and not a completely dead HES, then as you have experienced, it is possible, though with some difficulty to get the bike to run.

Ian
 
However, because you or somebody has been fiddling with the motronic, which is normally extremely reliable, all bets are off.

Ian

Thanks for taking time to right. there's no fiddling with Motronic just a swap of a John Gemi chip and making sure there were no shorts whilst following the loom, I've done many circuit board repairs, replacing a chip is very simple, although if you're heavy handed things can change that fast.

The RHS was not getting a signal to injectors via light bulb test,but we had fuel to injector. We unclipped some zip tires and freed the electrical connection to injector we then got a signal, okay... Tried for spark correct grounded way, nada, I thought maybe it has gone into a limp mode or something. I tried reseting ecu by removing fuse 5 for 10 mins, ignition on, 2 turns of throttle off, then on to start... Disconnecting battery for a while
No go.

Both stick coils to go bad at the same time unlikely but possible. I pulled the alternator cover off and had a look down there where the wire leads to the hall sensor. Nothing a miss to the eye but you can't really see anything of it, so replacement is necessary I take it.

It looks like it's the HES. I don't have the time or space and needed a bike for work so I'm gutted but she's being sold back to seller. A quick run on a Kwaka Versys and I realised I've been spoilt with my GS's though.

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Thanks for taking time to right. there's no fiddling with Motronic just a swap of a John Gemi chip and making sure there were no shorts whilst following the loom, I've done many circuit board repairs, replacing a chip is very simple, although if you're heavy handed things can change that fast.

Wish I had a pound for everytime that’s been said on the forum when trying to diagnose people problems. Diagnoses is very very easy and simple. One thing at a time. Does it work or has it failed- yes or no. No guessing or assumptions because it “looks ok” . Only then move onto the next in line of things in the chain of the problem.
 
Wish I had a pound for everytime that’s been said on the forum when trying to diagnose people problems. Diagnoses is very very easy and simple. One thing at a time. Does it work or has it failed- yes or no. No guessing or assumptions because it “looks ok” . Only then move onto the next in line of things in the chain of the problem.
Oh well.. I went through it with an ex BMW mechanic of 35years and suspect the HES. ANYWAY, lessons learnt, thanks for everyone for their INPUT

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I would double check your new chip is correctly fitted and it's the right way round and all pins located then swop it for the original....just in case :)
 
I would double check your new chip is correctly fitted and it's the right way round and all pins located then swop it for the original....just in case :)
Thanks for suggestion. The bike wasn't working before I even touched the Motronic, and it's relatively simple to get to. I've put in many chips before and the Gemi chip even has a little left hand tab to say 'this way round', so you'd have to be a numpty to get it wrong, all pins in either side, gently does it. No change..

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