1150gs adv No fuel to injectors

Alwaysawayround

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Hello,

It's time I ask after 3 days of reading from searches and getting nearer to starting a new job date. So I'm having trouble starting my 04 35k adv twin S. I don't even like to ask but that's partly what this forum is for isn't it. Basically narrowed it down to no fuel coming to injectors, but fuel pump primes when turning ignition on.

Following Haynes etc when ever I do something to it.

So it's not firing up. Was starting rough when I bought it and now not at all. I went out on it and was going good, pulled over an turned off, it just wouldn't start 10mins later (had to push it up a hill to my interview in moon boots and suit but got the job thankfully!).

'we' jumped started it dropping clutch in 3rd on a small hill. Got me home now tries to start but won't fire, pulled and saw no fuel coming through injectors. What things could one check now? I'm stumped.

Things I've done: New battery, new plugs, k&n. Checked fuses. Fitted new fuel filter, other leads @ Clamps looked good inside tank. New suspension. Fuel pump primes when turning on ignition. Tried it with some choke. I'm about to fill fresh fuel inside to eliminate bad fuel.

Would fuel pump prime if not working?

Suggestions I've read is HES but I am unsure if this would stop fuel pumping to injectors? I've checked the obvious, leads, leaks, hoses clamped or nagged etc etc



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Was the fault there before you changed the battery? It is not uncommon for the throttle cables to get dislodged when the tank is lifted, especially on the right side. If it was there before have you tried turning it over with an injector taken out of the throttle body so you can see if there’s any fuel being sprayed from the end?
 

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Remove a fuel injector from the fuel house, remove spring clip and pull the injector off the fuel line. Turn on ignition and see if fuel pumps out of the fuel line ... if yes then put injector back in place as normal. With a test bulb or similar (I have a test noide) unplug the electrical connection to the injector, place the two leads of your test bulb onto the two terminals on the injector connection/plug and press the starter button. The test bulb should flash on and off as the engine turns over..... doing those two tests will show if you have a fuel problem or electrical problem. Let us know which, then we can move onto finding the cause of the fault.
 
Do you know the fuel filer has a directional flow ? Just asking. :beerjug:
Also make sure the QD connectors are fully seated. :rob
 
Was the fault there before you changed the battery? It is not uncommon for the throttle cables to get dislodged when the tank is lifted, especially on the right side. If it was there before have you tried turning it over with an injector taken out of the throttle body so you can see if there’s any fuel being sprayed from the end?
Yes I changed battery as I thought it may of not had enough power anymore to start (I had just fitted satnav) but new battery hasn't changed it. I've disconnected every electrical besides the main leads.

Thanks for the pic, I saw that on some of my many searches. Throttle cables were placed however a tiny up and down movement maybe a mm of play but were seated vertically fine. There is no fuel coming to injector.

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... doing those two tests will show if you have a fuel problem or electrical problem. Let us know which, then we can move onto finding the cause of the fault.

Okay will do that tomorrow and thank you for your input. I've pulled injectors out and no fuel coming through but I see what you mean about the fuel line to injector elimates fuel line or blocked injector but would they both go at the same time?

I did see that in the Haynes actually about pulling line from injectors so that's the next job to identify if injectors are blocked, then I'll try your next move with the bulb to identify elec or fuel problem. Thanks mate

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Do you know the fuel filer has a directional flow ? Just asking. :beerjug:
Also make sure the QD connectors are fully seated. :rob
Yes, saw those lines on fuel filter once i finally got that dam thing out. Everything else was on tight
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I'm about to pull the fuel lines from injectors to check but after reading all morning about shorts and wires from the ecu...

Just thinking When I first got the bike, I pulled the motronic to fit a John Gemi chip but it had a sticker on the ecu already installed so decided at that point to leave it for now. Reinstalled and grounded a few wires. Bike still started rough but once going was superb.

Would a bad connection alter fuel pressure? (I'm guessing it's possible).

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No ... the fuel pressure regulator is a mechanical unit.
OK so a few things have been checked.

We have fuel coming to injectors, sprayed everywhere with thumb on it.

Then moved on to trying electrical signal pulling injectors out, with electrical connection connected to wire and bulb. At first the LHS came on and off when ignition was turned on. When trying to turn over it came on and off with rhythm.

Tried RHS same thing, and had no signal on bulb. So checked wire of electrical for pinches and cut zip tie. We then had signal on rhs.

Then tried to turn over but nothing coming out of both injectors.

We disconnected lamda on frame to reset to default, we had a tiny spray come out but back to nothing coming from injectors.

We checked for fuel again to injectors and there is fuel to both. One Injector did pump air out but then stopped.

We pulled tps clip out to also reset values to see if it would turn on injectors and still no spray, then clip in tps and still nothing.

So we have signal and fuel coming to injectors and all quick release lines are seated along with the throttle quadrants.

So what now, Ecu, HES? I could swap ecu chip out for another I have and see?




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Don't put your thumb over the end of the injector! Fuel is at high pressure.
 
Don't put your thumb over the end of the injector! Fuel is at high pressure.
Don't ask my mums partner why not to do that.

Checked for spark on both sides grounded by jumpers to earth, have iridiums in and no spark that we can see.

Got ecu off, replacing chip..

Got loads of help fromJay by pm just wanna say nice one so far and for outing up with me
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Just to update, stage 9 in and back together, still not firing up. Going to check plugs and injectors again :(
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I’m out... There’s too much going on here with this scatter gun approach to diagnosing a fault .. there was no mention in the original post of changing the chip in the ECU... I assume the bike was running ok before this work ?
 
I’m out... There’s too much going on here with this scatter gun approach to diagnosing a fault .. there was no mention in the original post of changing the chip in the ECU... I assume the bike was running ok before this work ?
I was following guidance from an ex bmw mechanic you may know him from the forum steppers.

He suggested after trying various things it could be the ecu or HES.

I tried your original method and replied to that to find fuel or electrical fault.

With bulb test, we have signal both sides, it flashes with ignition and bulb comes on and off trying to fire, we also have fuel to both injectors, however both injectors don't spray and there's no spark. (tested with spark in coil and grounded).

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... I assume the bike was running ok before this work ?

No, it died suddenly and wouldn't start. I had to bump start it to get home where the problem still persists. I've tried everyone's suggestions so far...

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have a careful look inside the wiring loom of the HES sensor.

the HES is a collective unit, consisting of: two hall effect sensors and the wires for them.
One sensor tells the ECU to spark the coil, another sensor tells the ECU to spin the fuel pump.

( the fuel pump prime at initial key on is built into the Motronic unit and is a separate occurance)

it is common for the insulation on the wire to corrode and fall off, and then the wires touch each other and no signals pass ( its a very low voltage sensor)

visual components to explain found here:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw...6-r1100s-cutting-out-highway.html#post9412093
 


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