hmm..think mines is on its way out ,no play but after a 100 mile run and when I spun the back wheel I could hear like the bearing clicking..whats the life expectancy of the bearing ,,?I replaced it @ 52239 miles and the mileage now is 67500 miles ..surely they should last longer than that ?
R1100GS final drive bearing
- Thread starter West coast gser
- Start date
Should last 40k miles or more. If you didn't fit it correctly it will last a lot less.
Did you heat the bearing up before dropping it on to the crown wheel?
Did you heat the bearing up before dropping it on to the crown wheel?
Yep ..and also the crown wheel was put in the freezer for a few hrs ,when fitted the bearing it went on easy..
Then heated the casing before dropping in the crown wheel and bearing?
?? jus heated up the bearing and crown wheel in the freezer, once they were together I just fitted new seal on casing and pushed the whole lot thru ,went together easy with no binding ..
Hmm..I posted on another forum about the bearing going in low miles and folk replied saying its not shimmed correct ..Ive read the manual and and various posts on shimming the fd and they all seem to be about the taper bearing that fits onto the hub so to speak..maybe Im thick or jus cant grasp how that affects the big fd bearing as its fixed so to speak onto the hub.. surely a worn paralever bearing would cause the big bearing to fail as the wheel/fd is running @ an angle with the constant movements going up n down over the road surfaces ...
Hmm..I posted on another forum about the bearing going in low miles and folk replied saying its not shimmed correct ..Ive read the manual and and various posts on shimming the fd and they all seem to be about the taper bearing that fits onto the hub so to speak..maybe Im thick or jus cant grasp how that affects the big fd bearing as its fixed so to speak onto the hub.. surely a worn paralever bearing would cause the big bearing to fail as the wheel/fd is running @ an angle with the constant movements going up n down over the road surfaces ...
Have a look on YouTube. There are plenty of videos out there. The 1100 and 1150 final drives are almost identical in construction apart from Crown and pinion gear ratios.
The case is machined to a tolerance, the bearing is machined to a tolerance. Variations between the two are taken up with shims. Now it could be that your case was machined to such a high degree, that it did not need a shim fitted.
Provided the bearing that you replaced was exactly the same width as the one you removed, then If there was no shim fitted at manufacture, then it would not necessarily need a shim fitting at replacement. But, if it wasn’t then it would have needed shims fitting to get the correct preload.
Not for nothing do BMW provide a range of shims.
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Hi it does have one shim in the fd ..but Im wondering why the bearing only got 12000 miles from it ? I re-assembled as per youtube instructions and on here ..only thing I can thinkl off is that the paralever bearing wearing had put stress on the FD/wheel because the wheel wasnt running straight ...also when I got the gs I had to replace a paralever bearing and the fd bearing..2 problems linked ? I shall order new bearing and seals and also the paralever bearings ,and I'll measure the old fd bearing and compare it to the new one ..tho surely bearings should be made to the same size ??
It could just be possible that the bearing you fitted was either faulty, or of a lower specification. As far as I am aware they don’t check every bearing during manufacture, just a sample from the production batch.
I don’t buy into the paralever bearings possibly being the cause of premature wear. I would need convincing on that one.
I got the bike with 42000 miles on it so Im pretty sure the bearing was original as theyre wasnt any signs of the cover having being opened before ...could be the one I fitted was iffy..who know..I'll order new bearing n etc tomorro from motorworks and get to pulling it to bits ..
My grey cells have been working overtime, it occurred to me that you featured in a thread about final drive bearings 4 years ago, a forum member was selling similar spec items at reasonable prices.
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/425883-Greg-s-FD-bearings-deconstructed
Would I be right in thinking that is about the time you replaced your final drive bearing.?
Of course, I hope I’m wrong, but is there a likelyhood that you fitted a bearing which was not to the manufacturers OEM specification?
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/425883-Greg-s-FD-bearings-deconstructed
Would I be right in thinking that is about the time you replaced your final drive bearing.?
Of course, I hope I’m wrong, but is there a likelyhood that you fitted a bearing which was not to the manufacturers OEM specification?
These shims made of gold?.
Hi yeah i featured in it ..I replaced the bearing on the 11/9/17 ..with one from motorworks.. I bought a new one + seal/O ring and a paralever bearing last nite ...
ah well its only money ..cant take it with ye.. 
,gave the FD an oil change earlier today and oil was a bit manky but no metal shavings on the drain plug magnet.. jus a bit of fuzz..done only 3000 miles since changing oil.. 2 oil change ago I put a good doze of molyslip in but didnt last time or this time ,
hmm.. well its certainly not clean...more black coloured ..its always been that colour when Ive changed it.. was worse when I added that gearbox molyslip stuff
There must be a method for measuring what size shims you need. To be honest I believe the entire design is flawed and I have no idea why BM chose to have a ball race bearing oppostite a taper roller that requires preload.
After the bearing failed on my 1150 after only around 12,000 miles, the bike was at 60,000+ at this point with two replacement bearings, I sent the entire FD assembly to Scriminger engineering who fixed it properly. I sold the bike with 96,000+ miles and the fd was still good.
Scriminger sold out and retired, I believe that Mikeyboy on this site bought the business and he seems to be highly regarded. Unless you have a well equipped workshop I would bite the bullet and send it for a complete refurb.
After the bearing failed on my 1150 after only around 12,000 miles, the bike was at 60,000+ at this point with two replacement bearings, I sent the entire FD assembly to Scriminger engineering who fixed it properly. I sold the bike with 96,000+ miles and the fd was still good.
Scriminger sold out and retired, I believe that Mikeyboy on this site bought the business and he seems to be highly regarded. Unless you have a well equipped workshop I would bite the bullet and send it for a complete refurb.
There is indeed a method of measuring what size shim is needed and when done correctly the bearing has a relatively life.
When the exact size shim is fitted this provides the correct preload on the smaller taper roller bearing, this in turn eliminates any 'twist' on the larger roller bearing
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Sounds to me like there is too much preload on the bearings,
Of course you may have just got a bad bearing(unlikely)
One thing to be aware of,
Over the years the general advice has just been to replace the big crown wheel bearing,
I have found that a lot of the 11## bikes I see have also got wear on the the crown wheel taper roller and the pinion nose bearing.
Starts to get a bit pricey when the unit needs a full bearing overhaul.
Of course you may have just got a bad bearing(unlikely)
One thing to be aware of,
Over the years the general advice has just been to replace the big crown wheel bearing,
I have found that a lot of the 11## bikes I see have also got wear on the the crown wheel taper roller and the pinion nose bearing.
Starts to get a bit pricey when the unit needs a full bearing overhaul.
You did heat up the cover plate before dropping the output flange and bearing into it, didn’t you ?
Hmm.. probably did tho.. I can be sure.
.it all went back together easy enough with no binding ..
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