Replacing ABS Unit on TC R1200GSA

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gstom89

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As title, needs replacing as U/S

I have a new (second hand) entire unit and a GS-911WIFI

Are there any pitfalls to look out for when replacing the unit?

Else I’m just thinking to empty the brake system of fluid, unplug the brake lines and electrical connector the the ABS unit, refill as best as possible the new unit, replace lines and connectors and refill/ bleed conventionally the system and with the GS-911WIFI....


What could go wrong?!
 
if the part numbers and software are a match, not much

but on cars the same modules can run different setting for the engine power and wheel size etc. so you need to validate the settings before you ride. Traction control is usually less tolerant than the antilock
this is why repairing the old faulty one "and removing the designed in failures", is often a better way than swapping out one faulty one that just died, for another faulty one that will die next week
 
Thanks chaps. As expected, after replacing the unit, refilling and bleeding the system....

It still doesn’t work!

But I can now send the old unit off to be repaired whilst the new one is fitted and still providing residual/non ABS brakes!

It threw a new code 24153 ‘coding error’ and didn’t clear the additional fault 23952 which has been persistent since I got the bike.

I’ll check out the link and see if they can repair.

Cheers
 
Thanks chaps. As expected, after replacing the unit, refilling and bleeding the system....

It still doesn’t work!
They "usually" need coded to the bike Sometimes you need to rewrite the correct VIN to the ABS unit so that the modules can connect and coordinate

With the later 2 circuit ABS units (Servo units have 4 circuits) I have replaced the ABS motor with a Mk9 Fiesta ABS Motor after many many many efforts at cleaning and making sure the brushes moved freely (Okay 3 times but stripping and building a 1200GSA to get at the pump to fix it and refit it is a complete pain in the hole!)

I learned some valuable information from doing it (mainly just don't!) My efforts were fine until about mile 20 and then the ABS warning would come on and it was always the same fault I cannot remember the exact wording but it was something like "ABS Motor fault" "ABS motor No Power" and its an immediate light on ABS fault if it does not see a circuit through the motor "but" you have pull power brakes on the 06 onwards (Non Servo ABS) so not a problem)

If you have access to a pillar drill and have a steady hand you can drill the alloy and you can helicoil with M6 x 12 insert and fit small studs and nuts and half washers to hold the motor firmly on

After fitting the Mk 9 pump it cleared every thing without a problem and I did about 60 miles and provoked the ABS on and off quite a few times and NI Phil has it back and 3 years later its still okay

It threw a new code 24153 ‘coding error’ and didn’t clear the additional fault 23952 which has been persistent since I got the bike. .
This is more worrying Time to check the ABS sensor gap and if the connection between the two parts have damaged bent pins

If that checks out? You are going to have to check the ABS sensor cable all the way to the ABS unit connection especially at every turn I can't recall just now if these sensors are Voltage fed whereas the earlier ones were simple inductance coils But on an AC setting on a multimeter on the correct pins you should see a small voltage if you spin the wheel That would indicate that the cable between the ECU and the sensor is there and the do a resistance test between the pins and between the pins and frame You should not get a reading from Pin to ground
 
But I can now send the old unit off to be repaired whilst the new one is fitted and still providing residual/non ABS brakes!

Your later model doesn’t have residual braking.. you have perfectly normal brakes no different to if your abs module works or not. The awful reduced residual braking is reserved for the servo/abs models.
 
Out of curiosity, is it possible to fit later non servo ABS to earlier servo/ABS bikes and get it working? I'm guessing no, but the thought wandered through my not very occupied brain.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
 
Out of curiosity, is it possible to fit later non servo ABS to earlier servo/ABS bikes and get it working? I'm guessing no, but the thought wandered through my not very occupied brain.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

No, I though of that, If i recall, the connector plug on the I & II units are different

Then you would have to tell all the other modules in the bus that look for the old part , to look for the new
 
Out of curiosity, is it possible to fit later non servo ABS to earlier servo/ABS bikes and get it working? I'm guessing no, but the thought wandered through my not very occupied brain.

Not economically "PLUS" you have to get the Dash and ZFE to talk to each other and the ABS ecu

Think of the number of units BM could have sold had they developed a plug and play Replacement NON servo ABS unit :rob
 
When I replaced the abs module I took the black electrical unit off mine and put it on the replacement, worked fine. It's only 4 bolts.
 
When I replaced the abs module I took the black electrical unit off mine and put it on the replacement, worked fine. It's only 4 bolts.

the black bit is the brains so its interesting you got it to work....

anyway good, point pretty sure he could swap this from his old unit to the current valve block the bike won't know any different
its usually the little wiper motor lookalike that misbehaves with stuck brushes... although they actually engineer in 2 faults...

early cars had a link wire from the multiplug to the circuit board that was coated in secret corrode to time gunge, they got caught.... so just downgraded the link wires till vibrations shake them loose... you just solder them back on...

DTF is where its at :barf
 
the black bit is the brains so its interesting you got it to work....

anyway good, point pretty sure he could swap this from his old unit to the current valve block the bike won't know any different

Like I said it separates easily enough, and as far as the bike is concerned it's got the same unit on it.

I have a GS911 so cleared fault codes after fitting and went through all the test procedures to ensure everything was as it should be.
Provoked ABS to initiate on a quiet gravel car park and was fine, that was 4 years and god knows how many miles ago.
 
When I replaced the abs module I took the black electrical unit off mine and put it on the replacement, worked fine. It's only 4 bolts.

Stop. How does the saying go “ a little knowledge is a dangerous thing” . He has the later unit and what you suggest isn’t possible, the unit is completely and utterly different
 
Stop. How does the saying go “ a little knowledge is a dangerous thing” . He has the later unit and what you suggest isn’t possible, the unit is completely and utterly different

Ah sorry, they changed the unit on the twin cams then?

I know the modules were different on the early servo assisted bikes but pretty sure the units from then on until the LC models were the same.
 
These are the units, they share all the same part numbers but are from different bikes, hence I guess that’s why it needs coding. Can I swap the electric portion only on the right of the picture? Of that fails then I’ll send the original one off to be repaired.....


6aab88907ec93d219ab19ef7808efaf3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
These are the units, they share all the same part numbers but are from different bikes, hence I guess that’s why it needs coding. Can I swap the electric portion only on the right of the picture? Of that fails then I’ll send the original one off to be repaired.....


6aab88907ec93d219ab19ef7808efaf3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll hazard a guess, No :) the electronic bit is where all the operating paramaeters, info, model unit etc is stored

swapping it over wont change a bit, and if the repairer needs to run diagnostikery on the unit, he wont be able to if he has the wrong elekroniky bit attached
 
These are the units, they share all the same part numbers but are from different bikes, hence I guess that’s why it needs coding. Can I swap the electric portion only on the right of the picture? Of that fails then I’ll send the original one off to be repaired.....


6aab88907ec93d219ab19ef7808efaf3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They are the same as on my late '08 bike and yes that is what I did, please note that whether you "should" is probably debatable. It is the braking system after all.

Having watched the videos of people butchering the motors to attempt a repair, I figured that swapping over the control unit was acceptable and it worked.

That said, if you can do without the bike for a week or two then the best course of action is to send it off and get it repaired :thumb2
 
Ah sorry, they changed the unit on the twin cams then?

I know the modules were different on the early servo assisted bikes but pretty sure the units from then on until the LC models were the same.

Sorry, my mistake, please except my apology's . I thought you were referring to the earlier servo system of brakes.
 
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