My latest project

Bubb said:
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=456828&stc=1&d=1592664745

Thought this engine was meant to have been rebuilt...... timing marks WAY off.
I think I might have to strip this right to the sludge trap to be sure.
Click to expand...

It's a long time since I last built one of these but a distant memory tells me that old Brits used a "hunting tooth" in the timing wheels so the marks only line up every few revolutions. Even if it runs well I'd definitely want to look in the sludge trap as if it blocks it's goodbye big ends. It's hard to be sure from the photo but the end of the crank where it runs in the timing cover oil seal looks a little the worse for wear which could end up equally fatal.
 
Bear

Thanks for that info re the timing marks only lining up every so ever many revolutions.

I may try spinning the engine over and see if they line up at some point. Will still split the cases and do the sludge trap. First time I’ve ever done a triumph engine, but it’s only mechanical on a bigger scale !
 
Head off, valves out one inlet valve was heavily carbon covered.
No real surprises other than it’s a ‘69 head on a 1970 engine..... no problems as it will be a bitsa bike when finished
 

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Cancel the comment about no base gasket.... it was there, just so clagged it needed a good scrape to remove it.
For some reason I was expecting a copper gasket (as the head gasket) rather than a paper gasket on the base. Don’t know why that thought was in my head, but it was, and so obviously wrong!

So far so good, no really nasty surprises, apart from the mismatched barrel base nuts..... most were original 12 sided, but a couple were hex sided, and one was a hex sided witworth......
Think I will have to buy the correct set of all 12 sided original bolts. .....along with all the other parts I need to buy!
 
rebores are expensive these days - might be cheaper to get a new set or matched barrels and pistons...
 
Make sure the head exhaust stubs are well stuck in, they have a habit of coming out and damaging the head threads.
 
Kaister.

I haven’t costed the rebore plus pistons to compare it with buying new barrels and pistons, but will do now that you have said rebore are expensive.

I will go for whatever will be best financially (I’m a cheapskate!) and of new barrel is the best way foreword then the old one can become a doorstop! (Or get flogged on e bay!)
 
Packer said:
Where is the oil reservoir?
Click to expand...

Packer.... if you look closely you can see the oil lines head up to the “petrol” tank, which I assume is split to be petrol, and oil.
A neat looking solution but must make the tank range lower.
 
Bubb said:
Packer.... if you look closely you can see the oil lines head up to the “petrol” tank, which I assume is split to be petrol, and oil.
A neat looking solution but must make the tank range lower.
Click to expand...

What do you plan do do with your restoration, as your 1970 model would have originally been oil in the frame? I see from your original photo, someone has fitted an oil tank under the seat.
 
Nice n fat.

You are correct sir, my bike, being a 1970 model (actually born June 1970, so 50 years old this month) is the last of the pre OIF bikes.
Oil In Frame started 1971.... so your memory is correct.

I’m doing a sympathetic rebuild rather than restoration as my bike came with later forks/front wheel, disk brake.... those bits are staying as the brake is better, and won’t cost me trying to find the original parts.... engine will stay as 650, but may get better alternator so I can run quartz halogen headlight, indicators etc.
Also want to get the crank balanced once I get that far.

Stay safe
Bubb
 
That talk of new barrels and pistons - would those be NOS, or is someone manufacturing them in the same way I've seen newly manufactured parts for BSAs?
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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