Howdo..I refitted the rear wheel and done the belt tension but can't for the life of me get the wheel alignment right..when I spin the back wheel backwards the belt walks to the inside of the pulley and spun forward it moves to a few mm to the outside of pulley I've done the piece of wire centred in the spindle hole and it's the same both sides the dyna has a small hole about 3 inches in front of the spinde adjuster..its doing my head in..any tips/suggestions?? I've done chain driven bikes for yrs but this has me ???obviously the wheel is pulled to the right slightly but the measurements add up..if it had normal chain type adjusters Id measure the amount of thread either side but this has allen bolts that screw into move the spindle adjuster..doing my head in..
evo dyna wheel alignment
- Thread starter West coast gser
- Start date
Forget the measurements on the swing arm / spindle hole and concentrate on getting the belt to run in the centre, if you get it to run centre all will be fine, the measurements and markings may not be exactly accurate.
Long time since Ive done an HD but on the Indian its done with the bike upright and the rear wheel off the ground, the spindle bolt is loosened then tightened just enough to allow adjustment but not let the wheel move about. The tension is then done with the belt side adjuster, once correct the alignment is done from the opposite adjuster moving it in or out until the belt runs centre, thereafter recheck tension and tighten it all up, no reference to spindle adjustment marks on the swing arm, if the belt runs central the wheel will be aligned.
Long time since Ive done an HD but on the Indian its done with the bike upright and the rear wheel off the ground, the spindle bolt is loosened then tightened just enough to allow adjustment but not let the wheel move about. The tension is then done with the belt side adjuster, once correct the alignment is done from the opposite adjuster moving it in or out until the belt runs centre, thereafter recheck tension and tighten it all up, no reference to spindle adjustment marks on the swing arm, if the belt runs central the wheel will be aligned.
Thanks..I may have loosened off the spindle nut too much then adjusted n once it's retightened that's what's knocking off the alignments..I'll try again later n jus loosen off the nut then just nip it up..cheers
You can remove the rear wheel without messing up the adjustment - in 25,000 miles and 4 back tyres I leave the belt adj alone and just pull the spindle through - you kinda roll the wheel in and out - difficult to describe.
I’ve never adjusted the belt.
I’ve never adjusted the belt.
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Yeah thought about doing that but the spindle was hard to push thru ..Im thinking the caliper mount where it fits on the swing arm is quite tight and doesn't slide easily it's as if it's dragging I might give it a file and take off some powder coating ..
yep..thats the way I done it..also used a vernier caliper and the readings are the same..
you can also use a piece of coat hanger.
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In the same way a prozzies fanny is loose
yours has had it done so many times ........
Well done 100 miles yesterday and belt was ok..also fuel mileage was a bit !! Gauge is sitting between 3/4 and 1/2 ..thats sitting at 70,60,50,60,then 70-80mph..also might change from forwards to mid controls as I was getting blown about like a sail on the motorways..all in tho I love it 
Well done 100 miles yesterday and belt was ok..also fuel mileage was a bit !! Gauge is sitting between 3/4 and 1/2 ..thats sitting at 70,60,50,60,then 70-80mph..also might change from forwards to mid controls as I was getting blown about like a sail on the motorways..all in tho I love it
So you have a FXDWG (?) - Wideglide? Comes with factory forward controls? I had Dyna Lowrider and I put forward control kit on it - loved it. You know, one thing you might consider is just keeping the forward controls as they are, and mounting up only the standard foot peg mounts and pegs - your frame should already be set up for them, and you can probably find plenty of them used for not much money from part out bikes. Then you can try them and decide which way you like better - kind of the opposite of putting on highway pegs!
If you do end up doing a full conversion you’ll need to pull the inner primary (and clutch) in order to run the new shift shaft and linkage through the oval inspection cover on the outer primary. And you’ll need a new cover with a hole in it for that (unless you feel like drilling).
Nope it's a dyna convertible...Ive got the mid mount pegs and brake rod and also the short gear shift rod..dont need to pull primary case as it has the gear change shaft already fitted it's under a small chromed domed cover .. I jus need to unbolt the mount from the crankcase as it has keeper to stop it from moving then I attach the short rod from the gear link to where it goes into gearbox..
pics of case you can see the cover and gear rod
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JuanKing
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Fuel gauge.....Luxury.
I would think the tank is 150miles max ..could probably go form.my home in Ayr to Berwick upon tweed on a full tank which is about 140miles..
I’ve a glide, tank is bigger then a dyna..
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