Wanted to boast about my success in getting the rh inner nut off after 20 years by percussion then blow torch to heart. Cannot get anything other than a ring spanner on the inner lh one and it's not even worth starting to pull. The exhaust pipe obstructs getting a socket to seat. Anyone got tips for how to access it ? Shame to have got 5 out of 6 out and be thus thwarted. 1100 gs.
Inner header nut lh
- Thread starter davnjud
- Start date
I’ve always managed to get a socket onto the nut without any problem ?
Strange , even if I could get the socket on at anything other than tilted, which gives me the willies, I don't see how a drive into the socket wouldn't be obstructed by the exhaust. Maybe one of those uj drives but that would also be the kiss of death. I've tried 13 mm sockets from 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive sets but am at a loss.I am left thinking of mole grips from inboard but that seems another recipe for disaster. It is of course possible that at end of a long afternoon I was missing the obvious...
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Wobble extension.
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Slim wall socket ?
Crows foot spanner
ratchet spanner ?
Crows foot spanner
ratchet spanner ?
Thanks this looks worth a try - always good to find another useful tool to buy ��
So I had another go yesterday after finding my 13mm socket would seat (as steptoe said) with a bit of cleaning and jiggling. Also managed to rig up some extensions with 3/8 to 1/4 converters. 3 heating and percussion cycles and could apply lots of torque ...before the socket turned on the nut. So disappointing it was initially very hard to turn and I thought I'd got it.Awaiting a 6 point 1/2 af ( 12.7 mm) to hammer on but with the corroded nut now rounded I am losing confidence it's going to come off. Last resort is going to be taking it to my friendly local garage who has got one of those electromagnetic heating devices. I don't want to grind it off because I'm then into removing the head and sending it away for helicoiling. I may end up having to just leave it for now as a monument to failure which could well be where previous owners have got to. Removing and re Lubricating these nuts should be the first item on the annual service !
So no happy ending here. I bought a blue spot bolt remover socket set which i have to say is a very good bit of kit. The rusty nut was well rounded by multiple attempts to remove it and even a very solid hammered on 1/2 AF socket. The bolt remover has a fluting which bites in the harder you turn and sadly despite heat and penetrating oil in the end the stud gave way and sheared off. Somewhere else on here one of our old hands has said this is the inevitable result so just plans on them not coming off and so it proved. perhaps with hindsight I should have tried to dremel a slot in the nut to release pressure and provide a path for penetrating oil but it fooled me by finally seeming to turn when it was actually the beginning of a shear. So its 2 wheels ( exhaust studs ) on my wagon and I m still rolling along,hopefully with no exhaust leaks, then a winter job to remove the head and get an engineering company to drill out and helicoil. I love my 1100GS but the path true love never runs smooth.....
Cook1e
Registered user
It should be possible (I've done a few) to drill & helicoil in situ. Just don't drill too deep or you could hit an oilway.
I’ll offer up my standard reply to broken stud issues which is try a series of left hand drills and on a lot of occasions one grabs and spins out the remnants of the stud.
Cook1e
Registered user
Yes! I bought a set of these following a struggle with a broken stud a few months ago. I used them in anger the other week with great sucess. As with any drill, it is essential to make sure the centre is accurate, which is the biggest problem in my experience. If the drill wanders off-centre, careful application of a tiny carbide burr in a die grinder or Dremel can get you back on course.
Also, I have found that many exhaust studs (including BMW) are hard as the hobs of Hell - use cobalt or carbide (careful - brittle) bits and plenty of oil or cutting fluid.
EDIT: When you have the old stud drilled out, a Wurth Time-Sert repair is miles better than a helicoil-type.
I asked about a set of solid carbide left hand drills from a supplier I use and for a set going from 1-12mm he wanted close to £1.5k so I politely declined. If they’d been up to £250 I’d have gone with it because I’m frequently asked to remove small studs but at that price there was no chance.
Cook1e
Registered user
I was thinking carbide-tipped (disadvantage: limited number of re-sharpenings; advantages: cheaper and less likely to snap). I also forgot to mention that 135 degree tip is preferable for drilling hard steels.
Thanks for the advice. Have bought these and will give a little try,hopefully stopping before I do more harm than good this time around
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pc-M35-...9&hash=item3b4843c409:g:qJEAAOSwGTBe1rgJ#rwid
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pc-M35-...9&hash=item3b4843c409:g:qJEAAOSwGTBe1rgJ#rwid
I know the principle but has anyone actually got one of these forward facing oilhead exhaust studs to spin out with a left hand drill ? I am surprised that with the massive torque I was eventually able to apply before the stud sheared the stud itself didn't unscrew given the nut had welded itself onto it with rust. Even though drilling the stud centre might release some pressure I am sceptical it will be enough given it seems ridiculously tight in, probably again from rust or bimetallic corrosion. I know the left hand drill method can work but in this specific application .....?
I’ve not had to drill out an exhaust stud on an oil head but I’ve done car and motorbike exhaust studs before and probably 75% of the time the last part of the stud spins out. The rest of the time you have to hope your drilling is accurate and you can pick what resembles a spring out in one go after possibly a little bit of work with a Dremel 
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