Carb cleaning fuel additive

The Other PaulG

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I need to recommission a GPz900R.

Last time I had it on the road (a year ago) one of the floats was occasionally sticking, so it has almost certainly been affected by the usual issue of ageing fuel.

Taking the carbs apart for cleaning will be a long job that I'd rather avoid - is anyone aware of a product that I can add to a tank of fuel that will get rid of any resin? Something you have had personal success with?

Cheers, Paul
 
I need to recommission a GPz900R.

Last time I had it on the road (a year ago) one of the floats was occasionally sticking, so it has almost certainly been affected by the usual issue of ageing fuel.

Taking the carbs apart for cleaning will be a long job that I'd rather avoid - is anyone aware of a product that I can add to a tank of fuel that will get rid of any resin? Something you have had personal success with?

Cheers, Paul

Dont Millers do an octane booster, that will clean fuel lines etc.
 
Consider this the perfect excuse to buy a compressor and an ultrasonic cleaner then set to it because octane booster or carb cleaners that go in the fuel tank require the bike to be running for them to circulate through the carbs and dissolve the crud.

If you don’t want to spend your hard earned money on toys you can remove them, stick them in a rucksack, drive up to my place and use my workshop which just happens to have a very noisy compressor and an ultrasonic tank that emits an annoying buzz while it’s working so I’d sit on the decking drinking beer while you worked :beerjug:
 
an ultrasonic cleaner :beerjug:

+1 for the cleaner, its almost impossible to clear out a carb without either taking it apart and or ultrasonic sad fact is that even after a ultrasonic clean you may need to take apart but the ultrasonic bath normaly does the job nothing else will if its gummed up
 
+1 for the cleaner, its almost impossible to clear out a carb without either taking it apart and or ultrasonic sad fact is that even after a ultrasonic clean you may need to take apart but the ultrasonic bath normaly does the job nothing else will if its gummed up

Agree,

when i bought my baby V, it was v low miles so obviously standing, went back to the dealer under warranty, in needed new jets and a few trip through the US bath, due to being badly gummed up
 
I’d also buy some steel guitar strings and cut them into nice usable lengths to poke into jets and small holes in the carb bodies because there’s always something left behind and a set of strings gives you a range of diameters so you don’t necessarily wreck the bores.

Under £10 will get you a set from Amazon and they’ll last you for years.
 
I’d also buy some steel guitar strings and cut them into nice usable lengths to poke into jets and small holes in the carb bodies because there’s always something left behind and a set of strings gives you a range of diameters so you don’t necessarily wreck the bores.

Under £10 will get you a set from Amazon and they’ll last you for years.

Interesting? Not advice I would give or ever follow. The standard advice is NEVER NEVER NEVER push steel wire through brass jets!!! even if you clean them you stand an equal chance of screwing up the jets, I you must use a pokeie thing then strings are ok but ONLY plastic/nylon never steel.

Being a gun person by profession I have used the cleaning stuff that dissolves fouling in barrels to clean carb parts with and had some success
 
I've had good results with Seafoam over the years. Ultimately it all depends on how badly gummed up it is.
 

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I have used Profi Fuel Max in my Gpz900r,it sorted an occasional sticking float issue when I put it back on the road 5 years ago,it has been fine since,but I do drain the tank and carbs at the end of the summer.
I had the carbs apart 4 times before I got it running well but it had been off the road for 17 years.
If I remember correctly it was quite expensive stuff and I had to get it from Holland as there was no UK supplier.
Hope you get it sorted they are great bikes.
 
Interesting? Not advice I would give or ever follow. The standard advice is NEVER NEVER NEVER push steel wire through brass jets!!! even if you clean them you stand an equal chance of screwing up the jets, I you must use a pokeie thing then strings are ok but ONLY plastic/nylon never steel.

Being a gun person by profession I have used the cleaning stuff that dissolves fouling in barrels to clean carb parts with and had some success

Standard advice assumes it’s taken by a complete beginner reading a Haynes manual. They’re fine as long as you don’t cut them with pliers and shove that end through when you’ve just flattened and sharpened it.
 
I've had good results with Seafoam over the years. Ultimately it all depends on how badly gummed up it is.

I used this following a recommendation on on here. I've a Yam WR250F which is only used infrequently, and pulling it out of the garage this year it just wouldn't start.

I bunged some seafoam in the tank, plus disconnected the fuel line and squirted in a mix of seafoam and petrol in. Left it 30min and it started, warmed it up and rode it round the lane and it was fine.

I've got an ultrasonic cleaner but I'm fairly certain that taking a carb to bits would end in tears, so I'm pleased this worked.


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I bought a Honda Nighthawk 750 that had sat for a couple years and while it started and ran, it didn't run right. I tried Seafoam but it didn't help so I finally bit the bullet and took the carbs off and apart. Some jets were completely clogged shut I don't how the thing ran at all? Spritzing carb cleaner directly into the jets didn't even clear them so there was no way any fuel additive would have worked. I separated a 3" piece of old lamp cord and used the fine copper wire to floss out the jets then sprayed cleaner through just to be sure. Ran like a top after that.
 


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