Front drive boot TU 1200

mpgscott

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Hi Folks,

Does anyone have any hints and tips to replacing the front rubber boot on the input shaft? Mine has a tear in it so want to get it replaced, im hoping there is a hint to save needing to take the swingarm off? I have taken the old one out and got the driveshaft off, all the joints look good and have been well greased.

Also if someone knows were i can get a replacement front boot, the rear seems ok but might get it also since its all off.

FD is on its way to Mikey to work his magic.

Cheers as normal for any thoughts..
Mark



 
Buy the OEM boot. Motorworks part is aftermarket and not as good quality. I learned the hard way - had to replace again after 1 year. Looks like you should be able to replace without swingarm off, but prob easier having to get drive shaft back on properly with swingarm off
 
I second that. Motorworks charge about the same as BMW for the boot but the BMW one is far better quality. Motorworks one lasted 12 months and I was unable to get it to fit after pulling the bike apart for the second time. The problem with fitting it with the swinging arm in place is trying to align the prop shaft onto the gearbox splines some people have been able so perhaps it's my fingers or patience's!!

I have used a number of items from motorworks including seals but have ended up having to replace them within 18 months bit of false economy.

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It is possible, but a bit of a faf.
There is a vid on YouTube that is helpful but it's not in English, think its Greek from memory.
Got my OEM gaiter from Motobins and was a bit cheaper than main BMW dealer.
If you're that far into the bike and u can get the bottom shock bolt undone it's worth dropping the swingarm to check and re grease everything imho.

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Only takes a few minutes to remove the swing arm from the point that you are at.
Check and lube the swing arm bearings while you are at it and it will also be easier to fit the new boot and drive shaft.
As suggested buy the OEM boot.
 
It is possible, but a bit of a faf.
There is a vid on YouTube that is helpful but it's not in English, think its Greek from memory.
Got my OEM gaiter from Motobins and was a bit cheaper than main BMW dealer.
If you're that far into the bike and u can get the bottom shock bolt undone it's worth dropping the swingarm to check and re grease everything imho.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
Its my video

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It is possible, but a bit of a faf.
There is a vid on YouTube that is helpful but it's not in English, think its Greek from memory.
Got my OEM gaiter from Motobins and was a bit cheaper than main BMW dealer.
If you're that far into the bike and u can get the bottom shock bolt undone it's worth dropping the swingarm to check and re grease everything imho.

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
It is the best to take the arm out. Grase the bearings . I suggest the arm out.

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search other posts on forum. you don't need slide hammer. but laser tool to torque nearside nut is useful. also, check the swingarm bearings. they are open on inside so grease can get washed out. easy to replace
 
Didn't need one on mine, pin came out with just a longer bolt in the centre and a bit of a wiggle iirc.
Also didn't need the special tool to refit other pin. Set it to correct torque and carefully marked it, then torqued locknut and it didn't move.
The most difficult part is removing the lower shock bolt. If it's still got the factory thread lock on it you need plenty of heat to soften it.
Obviously an impact gun/long breaker bar makes it easier.

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Thanks folks, I’ve got the lower shocker bolt out used long breaker bar.

Will look at getting the swing arm off today, good plan like has been suggested to check and grease up. I’ve noticed lots of posts about which grease to use so anyone let me know what they have used please?

Cheers
Mark
 
shock bolt is threadlocked. requires heat. should use blue (medium) threadlock when refitting

If bearings have had grease washed out best is to replace them. stick your finger in and rotate. if they feel at all rough then replace. you can use a multipurpose lithium-based grease for those applications but new ones come pregreased so you shouldn't need to. I quite like the mobil xhp 222 waterproof grease - triumph recommend this for linkage on one of my other bikes and it is pretty good.
 
It mentions that there is a circliip on the drive shaft but mine didn’t have one it simply slid off the input shaft with the persuasion of screwdriver
 
From memory there's a spring clip in a groove around the spline that keeps driveshaft in place on the gearbox output shaft.

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It's a snap ring that sits inside the end of the driveshaft and locates into the groove on the end of the gearbox output shaft. You have to encourage the driveshaft onto the output shaft to get it to locate. This is the step that is difficult with the swingarm on
 
It's a snap ring that sits inside the end of the driveshaft and locates into the groove on the end of the gearbox output shaft. You have to encourage the driveshaft onto the output shaft to get it to locate. This is the step that is difficult with the swingarm on

Does it tend to not come off the clip that is? I just can’t see any at either end the image here shows two but I can’t see them on mine https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-...=33_1651&bildtaf_hg=33&year=2009&month=11#sub
 
There is just the one snap ring,fitted to the inside of the upper uj spline.
It fixes the shaft to the gearbox output.
That image is inaccurate
It’s very similar to what’s used on car drive shaft fitments.
If you apply a load it will lock on,
A quick snatch will release it.
The lower uj has nothing,it allows slight slide to enable the shaft to adjust for changes in length across the arc of suspension travel.
It’s not much but it’s a cheaper way of doing things than having a sliding spline in the shaft.
This is the reason that it’s not good if it seizes,( see pages of drivel in the wassser boxer section)
 


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