Stainless bolts - engine front cover

LBJ GSA

Registered user
Joined
Apr 16, 2017
Messages
222
Reaction score
0
Location
London
I think I heard it is not a good idea to replace the bolts on the front of the engine cover with stainless steel? Is that the case? Has anyone done so - successfully or unsuccessfully? Wunderlich have them with black heads which look neat.
Many thanks
LBJ
 
Probably because of bimetallic corrosion https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
Personally I have replaced most of the nuts and bolts on my bikes (and sometimes cars) over the years with good quality stainless fasteners and never had an issue. I usually use ACF50 grease as it's supposed to be a "corrosion block", but in the past used copaslip. There's also a special "grease" called "Duralac" which is specifically designed to work in these circumstances.
Personally I would buy the stainless fasteners if you like them, and install as I suggested (Duralac, ACF50 Grease or Copaslip) and i doubt you will have any issues.
My 21-year-old K1200RS has dozens of stainless fasteners and not been an issue for 21 years!
Chris Shaw does great kits (incl odd sizes for BMW's) https://www.shawstainless.co.uk/
Stigs is another favourite (he does Land Rover kits) https://www.a2stainless.co.uk/
 
Mine were replaced with stainless when mikeyboy had my front cover powder coated years ago. They were not a problem to get out last year to reseal the front cover when it started weeping a little oil.
 
If you're going to ride the bike in all weathers, you definitely need to get something on the threads between the bolt and casing. I promise you, they will join into a corroded mess that only becomes apparent when you come to remove them 6 months later...

Just be mindful of torquing the bolts when you have put something on them (duralac/copper slip etc). Don't over do it . After that you should be all good

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
mpgscott said:
Thinks its advised to reduce torque values by 20% when you use stainless, so simply reduce the torques on them when you fit.
Click to expand...

I think you mean reduced when you use an anti-seize on the stainless. Not just if using stainless per se.

Also the 20% figure is a bit flim-flam. :D
 
Steptoe said:
I think you mean reduced when you use an anti-seize on the stainless. Not just if using stainless per se.

Also the 20% figure is a bit flim-flam. :D
Click to expand...

Thanks Steptoe, what do you reckon is sort of a good rule of thumb starting point, or is it difficult to say? My thoughts were more to avoid the galling that can easily happen if too much tension is applied to stainless.

Our work have a tendency stating locking nuts on stainless bolts for subsea operations as opposed to the simpler method of double nutting to lock. This with very little force can cause galling very easily so I’m keen to get any pointers to avoid the issue.
 
Even on my bike for 7 years with no problems. Used aluslip as a barrier.
 
mpgscott said:
Thanks Steptoe, what do you reckon is sort of a good rule of thumb starting point, or is it difficult to say? My thoughts were more to avoid the galling that can easily happen if too much tension is applied to stainless.

Our work have a tendency stating locking nuts on stainless bolts for subsea operations as opposed to the simpler method of double nutting to lock. This with very little force can cause galling very easily so I’m keen to get any pointers to avoid the issue.
Click to expand...
I understood galling is a consequence of friction. Quite different from anodic corrosion...which is what will happen to a stainless bolt into an alloy body - without something in between, as mentioned above.

Your nyloc nut will remain put because the 'nylon' component absorbs the vibration, preventing the nut unscrewing. If there was sufficient movent of the bolt to cause galling with the nuts in place, them presumably there's one hell of a lot of vibration? HD level vibration?

Or have I got it all wrong?

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
I've replaced pretty much all of the bolts on all of my bikes with stainless over the years and used copperslip and never had a problem.

The only time I've had an issue with galling is when using 316 nuts and bolts with no lube. Particularly when using them in caustic and acidic applications. Steam applications were the next worse at galling stainless. Never had issues with stainless galling on car or bike - but then I tend to use 304 rather than 316.

Sent from my GM1913 using Tapatalk
 
Can you get the front cover off without dicking with the suspension?

Mine needs repainting.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

er-minio
Engine cover, final drive repaint.
Replies
5
Views
297
er-minio
er-minio
steve g
Stainless disc bolts
Replies
4
Views
415
steve g
steve g
Balancer Shaft Cover
Replies
0
Views
208
binkags
2009 GS Front engine cover removal tool?
Replies
3
Views
510
Mistacat
Mistacat
Cyber
Torque setting Front Cover?
Replies
4
Views
231
Cyber
Cyber


Back
Top Bottom