R1150 Rear Brake Caliper PIN rusted in place

Status
Not open for further replies.

Colk

Registered user
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Location
Carlow, Ireland
Hi all,
I recently bought a R1150 and went about servicing the brakes.
However, the rear brake caliper is putting up a bit of a fight. I removed the small clip that secures the pin in place but I cannot drive the pin out towards the rear wheel, its stuck fast.
I've taken the caliper off, supported it on a piece of wood and really hit that pin hard but it still won't move.
I've sprayed WD40 on it and left it for now, until I come back to it at the weekend.
I've also tried to clean up the exposed bits of the pin so it should slide through the holes in the caliper easier but still no joy.
Just wondering if anyone else has had the same trouble and if so how you managed to get the pin out.
I guess heat may be the next step but with the rubber boots of the caliper nearby I didn't want to try that just yet.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Regards,
Colm
 
Are you sure that it isn't screwed on?
 
Are you sure that it isn't screwed on?

Might be indeed if it is a BMW caliper but I'm not sure. Someone might be able to shed some light on that. My 2001 has Brembo calipers and the pins just tap out.

Get yourself a decent penetrating fluid Colk as you might as well piss on it as use WD40.
 
Are you knocking it out in the correct direction?
 
If your not worried about the pin,

I'd remove the caliper spread the pads and get a slim set of locking grips on the pin.

then see if i can turn it out / free it off
 
put the caliper back on the bike , get a drift bigger than the pin , tap it flush , get a smaller drift , tap it through , if you have to apply heat , the rubbers come from a cbr600 front brake .
 
Thanks for the replies all.
Its definitely not a screw in pin and I'm tapping it in the right direction but always good to check the basics first.
Be interested to hear more on a good penetrating fluid, rather than WD40.
I was thinking of getting a thin pliers and trying to twist the pin to free it alright, so will give that a go along with other penetrating fluid.
Failing that I might either heat it up or maybe cut the pin in half, get the pads out of the way and the sliding caliper and then look at freeing each separate bit of stuck pin.
Will attack it again at the weekend.
Cheers for the advice lads.
 
Plus Gas is a good one to start with. There are plenty others on the market and your local motor factors will help you find one. :thumb2
 
Here's how I managed it on my R1150GS:

- Tried to drift it out, employing increasing sizes of hammer, liberal applications of Plus Gas & heat. No dice, I think I mushroomed the pin in the caliper body.
- Tried to drill it out, but fucked the caliper (the pin is hardened).
- Bought a used caliper (£65 from Motorworks)
- Job's a good'un! :D

I think the rust got between the pin and the spring collar - no chance of shifting it :blast



Failing that I might cut the pin in half, get the pads out of the way and the sliding caliper and then look at freeing each separate bit of stuck pin.

Try this first - I did get the pin out of the fucked caliper on the bench and this is how I'd do it next time. :thumb

EDIT: Also got a stainless pin (Motorworks again) for the replacement caliper, so hopefully there won't be a next time!
 
If you go the replacement Caliper route, James Sherlock have good s/h prices, starting £39 for a rear. Just replaced my R1150RS fronts, pleased with product condition when it arrived.
 
Sorry for your troubles but at least you have come across the same issue as me !
I also mushroomed the head of the pin and I have now filed the head of it down (including a bit of the caliper) so I now have a round pin again but anytime I hammer on it again it seems to spread out again into the softer caliper, so I think tapping / hammering on the pin when it is this stuck just doesn't work, as you end up spreading the pin into the caliper further seizing it.

I was thinking of drilling it out but glad you advise against it, as the caliper is softer metal and I would probably fuck it up too.

Looks like the spring collar on my pin is badly rusted up.

Will go with my plan of cutting the pin in half, removing pads and sliding part of caliper, then attack each part of the pin separately with penetrating fluid / grips / tapping / swearing / heat / throwing across the shed etc.

Good to know I can get a decent used caliper too and I have a lovely stainless steel pin with new washer and spring all ready to go too.

Thanks for all the information Cook1e, really appreciated.
 
Sorry for your troubles but at least you have come across the same issue as me !
I also mushroomed the head of the pin and I have now filed the head of it down (including a bit of the caliper) so I now have a round pin again but anytime I hammer on it again it seems to spread out again into the softer caliper, so I think tapping / hammering on the pin when it is this stuck just doesn't work, as you end up spreading the pin into the caliper further seizing it.

I was thinking of drilling it out but glad you advise against it, as the caliper is softer metal and I would probably fuck it up too.

Looks like the spring collar on my pin is badly rusted up.

Will go with my plan of cutting the pin in half, removing pads and sliding part of caliper, then attack each part of the pin separately with penetrating fluid / grips / tapping / swearing / heat / throwing across the shed etc.

Good to know I can get a decent used caliper too and I have a lovely stainless steel pin with new washer and spring all ready to go too.

Thanks for all the information Cook1e, really appreciated.

Once you've cut it in two, a pair of mole grips or similar will allow you to rotate the 'collar end' of the pin, which seemed to dislodge the rust-swollen collar. You may then need to file off the marks made by the moleys before the pin will fit through the hole in the caliper. Good luck! :thumb

EDIT: You will need to salvage the spring collar for use on the stainless pin. Plenty of Coppaslip on reassembly.
 
+2

IIRC
You drive the pad pin out with a punch from the wheel side (through the spokes) out towards the pillion hanger

You are trying to drive it out the wrong way - will have a check

Scrub that - failing memory
Here’s the manual
5591c79bcaaa37c484ba2dc384cf7ab5.jpg
 
Pin removed :)

Hi all,
Just a quick update - I got the pin out at the weekend.
I used a different penetrating fluid (cant remember name but it weirdly can be used as a wood oil too) , I cut a small section out of the middle of the pin using a hacksaw. This allowed me to remove the pads, pad spring and sliding part of the caliper.
I then used a vicegrips to rotate and remove each side of the pin in turn, using plenty of penetrating fluid.
I got the wheel side out first, then the other side, however the small part of the pin snapped off in the caliper but I could tap this out without too much effort.
New pads, new stainless pin and new pad spring now installed once everything was cleaned up.
Thanks for all the advice and help on this one, I'm back on the road :)
I was hoping to add a pic or two of the state of the pin but I cant seem to find how to add a pic, maybe because I am on a tablet ?
 
I was hoping to add a pic or two of the state of the pin but I cant seem to find how to add a pic, maybe because I am on a tablet ?

Glad you got sorted.

I'm on several tablets, but I can still post pics :D
 

Attachments

  • pills_pic.jpg
    pills_pic.jpg
    81.2 KB · Views: 65
Status
Not open for further replies.


Back
Top Bottom