Running like a sack of potatoes

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Throttle position sensors have been known to short but usually in a more gradual way

Was it possibly Power washed before being put away ?
 
Hi Mistacat. Seems like you have found the problem! The throttle position sensor, while fitted to the engine will not read lower than 78% (by throttle operation it will go to 100%). If removed I can get it to zero (by fiddling), but as soon as it's refitted goes to 78%. So gents, many thanks for all your inputs. Mistacat, looks like I owe you a beer (or 2).
Thanks guys!
 
Good to here you found the problem.
The new throttle position sensor is a straight replacement. ( it can not be adjusted like some).
Just check it with the GS911 when it is fitted 0 to 100.01%.
Some say that it needs the throttle to be twisted to max a few times when the ignition is turned on, I have not found this necessary and think it heralds from the 1150 days.
 
Hi everybody,
Thanks Mistacat, had a big progress:
Replaced the throttle sensor: bike is now starting perfectly, running with smooth idle. When accelerating on neutral, ramps up normal. But when clutched in, engine coughs and stops unless I get above 3000RPM before releasing clutch handle. Attempted to reset throttle by twisting 3 times after having disconnected battery like recommended here and there on internet, but no success. Unfortunately, I don't have the GS911 anymore.
Does anyone have an idea ? If I needed to purchase diagnostic tool, any recommended model rater than GS911 ?
Thanks again for your help.
 
Air temperature is correct.
Throttle position between 87.7 % and 100.01 %
The injector pulse width is around 12 m/s

I will send you a copy of the data.

with a power commander attached you can edit the 0 and 100% throttle to perfection in the PC3, it was way out when I first fitted it....
 
I have fitted PC3`s to jap bikes as it suited their basic injection systems and PC5`s to R1200`s with and without autotune but never found them very stable.
When you say that you can edit the 0 to 100% throttle to perfection, I agree you can alter the injection pulse width in each of the cells but they very quickly go out of spec.
Perhaps I am monitoring the AFR too closely as my diagnostic equipment is very sensitive.
What diagnostics are you using to map your AFR, ?
 
Hi everybody,
Thanks Mistacat, had a big progress:
Replaced the throttle sensor: bike is now starting perfectly, running with smooth idle. When accelerating on neutral, ramps up normal. But when clutched in, engine coughs and stops unless I get above 3000RPM before releasing clutch handle. Attempted to reset throttle by twisting 3 times after having disconnected battery like recommended here and there on internet, but no success. Unfortunately, I don't have the GS911 anymore.
Does anyone have an idea ? If I needed to purchase diagnostic tool, any recommended model rater than GS911 ?
Thanks again for your help.

Unfortunately there is not a substitute for the GS911, A lot of talk about the MotoScan App ,I have the ultimate MotoScan version and an OBDlink MX+ and it is not in the same league as the GS911 as it will NOT record Data files. You can view real time data ( try doing that going down the road) but you cannot record the data.
Unfortunately we can all throw in loads of guesses regarding your problem, but without the data it would be guesswork.
 
I was down the gym earlier, and one of the women looked like a sack of potatoes when she was running. :D
 
Good afternoon everybody,

Managed to get a GS911 for about 30GBP on alibaba.com . By the way, I did not believe it would do the same as a genuine one, but if installed with the CD, no need to register your bike, and got the same facilities. Connected and checked all data looked ok. Let the engine warm up to 80°. Recalibrated throttle position again: disconnect battery, switch on, twist accelerator handle 3 times 0 to 100%, switch off, restarted engine. Run test on road: almost perfect. Still had a few coughs when running idle and clutched in at very low speed though. Checked sparkplugs: found out that one of the low ones at a different resistance, showing more 3MOhms between electrode and top connection, while others were showing 1.3KOhms. Replaced, and now all running smoother than ever before.

Once again thanks a lot for your help and patience, with special mention to Mistacat who found the solution with the throttle sensor. By the way, it is the same as on BMW cars and you can find it for about 10GBP on any car parts supplier on internet.

And wish smooth drive to all of you.
 
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