2011 R1200 GSA, speedometer hates me!

Inusleroux

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Hi All,

Its been a while,
I use to have a 2006 GS (abs) and guess what, one day doing a 3000mile trip speedo dropped out and all warning lights kicked up. Anyway investing in a Motoscan diagnostic tool i came to the conclusion the problem was at the rear... a little corroded wire.

About a year ago i upgraded to 2011 GSA non abs, Great! Drove to MOT the other day fine, week later drove to the shops and guess what speedo dead!

Here goes, i have another rear wheel speed sensor, changed it. Not that. No metal filings on the sensor all look good at the rear. Wire/ loom strip back to Tank looks ok, there is a join in one wire soldered don't know why but its good.

Checked the plug at instrument cluster, Checked instrument cluster with diagnostic tool everything moves etc. Only test i cant do is speed sensor test as tool says this figures come from abs module, that i don't have.

So much for thinking " no abs no electric problems anymore "

Does any one have any better ideas? Please any advice will be much appreciated!
Only next thing i can think of is remove tank and check rest of wiring maybe send instrument cluster away to get tested, does anyone know how to check the rear speed sensor? I can only get a ohm reading from both off them but i read on here its a volt reading?

Thanks in advance.
 
Inusleroux said:
Hi All,

Its been a while,
I use to have a 2006 GS (abs) and guess what, one day doing a 3000mile trip speedo dropped out and all warning lights kicked up. Anyway investing in a Motoscan diagnostic tool i came to the conclusion the problem was at the rear... a little corroded wire.

About a year ago i upgraded to 2011 GSA non abs, Great! Drove to MOT the other day fine, week later drove to the shops and guess what speedo dead!

Here goes, i have another rear wheel speed sensor, changed it. Not that. No metal filings on the sensor all look good at the rear. Wire/ loom strip back to Tank looks ok, there is a join in one wire soldered don't know why but its good.

Checked the plug at instrument cluster, Checked instrument cluster with diagnostic tool everything moves etc. Only test i cant do is speed sensor test as tool says this figures come from abs module, that i don't have.

So much for thinking " no abs no electric problems anymore "

Does any one have any better ideas? Please any advice will be much appreciated!
Only next thing i can think of is remove tank and check rest of wiring maybe send instrument cluster away to get tested, does anyone know how to check the rear speed sensor? I can only get a ohm reading from both off them but i read on here its a volt reading?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I might be wrong, but i dont think you had the option of non abs on 2011 models

* edit * It would appear they did offer the 2011 with non abs, so i'm wrong there ;)

What is interesting, is they offer a non ABS front brake circuit, but nothing for the rear on non ABS

(The 2006 GS gets the option of a non ABS front & rear brake line)

The motoscan kit is'nt perfect, and there are some functions it cannot do

there might be part of your problem

On the non servoectomised models and i suspect all models the speed sensor is taken from the abs reluctor ring inside the rear cardon hub

if the sensor fails, or cant see the ring, it switches after a predetermined time to the front abs sensor and takes the speed pulses from there

with the servoectomised units it does not switch to the front sensor, (as there is no ABS unit /electroniky bits) .

I tried running the front ABS sensor signal to the input for the rear, but as the reluctor rings are different sizes , the speedo is wildly out

The cause of my speedo loss was either the failing cardon hub (excess play ) or the ABS sensor, but i never had the problem again after the rear

hub was rebuilt.
 
The rear speed sensor is basically a hall effect sensor

It generates a magnetic field from the coil that is wound inside the casing.

The holes in the reluctor ring disturb the magnetic field and create a pulse,

In simple terms its a pulse of 1's and zero's 1010101010101010

these pulses are counted and converted to speed by the ZFE & Sent to the Kombi

The only way to check its working would be to connect it to an oscilloscope and see if the pulse & wave form is correct

running something magnetic over the energised sensor should cause a voltage / ohm movement,

but the values are so small its very hard to see from what i can recall

the coils & magnetic field can degrade over time / heat etc
 
Santa-2512 said:
The rear speed sensor is basically a hall effect sensor

It generates a magnetic field from the coil that is wound inside the casing.

The holes in the reluctor ring disturb the magnetic field and create a pulse,

In simple terms its a pulse of 1's and zero's 1010101010101010

these pulses are counted and converted to speed by the ZFE & Sent to the Kombi

The only way to check its working would be to connect it to an oscilloscope and see if the pulse & wave form is correct

running something magnetic over the energised sensor should cause a voltage / ohm movement,

but the values are so small its very hard to see from what i can recall

the coils & magnetic field can degrade over time / heat etc
Click to expand...

Hi, and thanks for that... a BMW mechanic friend a just spoke explained that to me. So ill recheck wiring again, he's pretty confident that its not the instrument cluster as i can move the needle etc with the Diagnostic tool. He did say that my options is starting to run out and do a final check on wiring but BMW main dealer might be the next option.
 
Update....

I have found a small bit of corrosion on one wire under the fuel tank, fixed it, partly put the bike back together and test. Still nothing. Crazy thing is when i rub/flick the wires together speedo reads speed m, i can get it up to 20mile an hour. So it must be the sensor, well so i think.... i have my one and 2nd hand one from Motorworks still nothing. Whats the chances of 2 dead sensors?..... and no play in rear hub and no metal fillings on it.?? Im a bit lost with this one.
 
I had the same issue, took the sensor out and there were little flakes of metal (normal) on the sensor. Cleaned it off and put it back in and it worked. 12 months later, it went again but this time I ended up replacing the speed sensor for about 80 quid
 
Could buy 2011 gsa without abs I had one from new , if the speedo goes off it is the rear hub sensor or its wiring ( it provides signal to speedo) , wear in the final drive can mean metallic sludge on the sensor and a duff signal. Easy to remove and clean

However, when mine went off it was the connector at the rear right side of tank where it is cable tied to the frame
 
Thanks everyone, waiting for another sensor, can someone send me i pic of the wiring on the loom side of the speed sensor plug please, it has pin 1 and 2 but as someone repaired my wires before, i want to make sure they are in the right way around. The Haynes manual colours doesn't correspond to my plug
 
Inusleroux said:
Thanks everyone, waiting for another sensor, can someone send me i pic of the wiring on the loom side of the speed sensor plug please, it has pin 1 and 2 but as someone repaired my wires before, i want to make sure they are in the right way around. The Haynes manual colours doesn't correspond to my plug
Click to expand...

If I recall it shouldnt matter, its only a pair ...

according to my 2006 hexhead manual

The rear is 2 black wires to the sensor - (a twisted pair)

Wire 1 is Black with a White stripe

Wire 2 is Black with a Brown stripe

if its been repaired, is it a good repair? possible short or broken again

Not unknown for a joined wired to rebreak a little further than the join
 
Yes, exactly as you say "Santa" repair was decent but i found a rebreak further up the wire. Problem is I've repaired it and its still not working... by swiping/flicking the wires on each, to basically make contact, the faster i flick them the higher the speedo goes. So im sure speedo and wires is fine, but im not 100% on if wires is in the plug correctly. A blue with brown line, and blue with yellow dots, no such wires in tve Haynes manual
 
The colours are for tracing only.

Blue with yellow dots is used all over the bike, you just need to look ;)


spring adjustor and handlebars are two examples that use the blue yellow


so ignore the colours , and lets get back to the problem.

Have you done a continuity check on the sensor ? do you get a circuit? What is the resitance on the sensor - the field windings could be failing so the values may be way off

what is the value of the front sensor?

Thinking outside the box have you tried running a bridge wire from the front sensor and plugging it into the rear ? do you get a working speedo not worried about the speed, just does it work?

I'm going to send you a pm for some other stuff

edit, i cant because your not a member -

Pay the £12 you tight arse ;)
 
Santa-2512 said:
The colours are for tracing only.

Blue with yellow dots is used all over the bike, you just need to look ;)


spring adjustor and handlebars are two examples that use the blue yellow


so ignore the colours , and lets get back to the problem.

Have you done a continuity check on the sensor ? do you get a circuit? What is the resitance on the sensor - the field windings could be failing so the values may be way off

what is the value of the front sensor?

Thinking outside the box have you tried running a bridge wire from the front sensor and plugging it into the rear ? do you get a working speedo not worried about the speed, just does it work?

I'm going to send you a pm for some other stuff

edit, i cant because your not a member -

Pay the £12 you tight arse ;)
Click to expand...


I'll pay the £12 later! Haha.... read the hole post...... no ABS so no front sensor! Sensor reads 617ohm and that never changes
 
Hi again.... well its about to go to the scrappy, just spend another day on the bike. Electric wise everything works. It been tested over and over, i had the wiring loom in bits, i get a reading from the sensor and on the speedo by moving a magnet infront of it! But as soon as i stick it in the final drive, nothing.... so next step final drive, but there's nothing i can see that's at fault i have even drained the oil. I cant see how the final drive can effect it to not working over night?? Any thoughts anyone?
 
Inusleroux said:
Hi again.... well its about to go to the scrappy, just spend another day on the bike. Electric wise everything works. It been tested over and over, i had the wiring loom in bits, i get a reading from the sensor and on the speedo by moving a magnet infront of it! But as soon as i stick it in the final drive, nothing.... so next step final drive, but there's nothing i can see that's at fault i have even drained the oil. I cant see how the final drive can effect it to not working over night?? Any thoughts anyone?
Click to expand...

Reluctor ring inside may have moved
 
Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. The front and rear sensors are connected to the ABS controller and then via a CAN to the ZFE.
Both the ABS controller and ZFE have permanent live feeds to them which are not switched by the ignition, if there is a computer glitch disconnecting the battery will reboot the ZFE.
Worth a try as it costs nothing.
 
Whoops, Just read #1 and see that it is non ABS and I don`t have a wiring diagram for a non ABS twin cam, I assumed that all the TC`s had ABS.
If the wiring to the speedometer is via the ZFE it is worth rebooting it.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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