How difficult is it getting to the hall sensor to see if it is the wiring that needs replacing or would it show up on a diagnostic at the dealer cheers for the comments so far
Are you hearing some thing "spraying" in the tank by any chance when its just about running??? There are a few problems with fuel hoses splitting this last while, Particularly the ones right by the pump/filter. so it can give you just enough fuel to run at tickover but when you open the throttle there's not enough fuel pressure and it dies
Hall sensor is basically the electronic equivalent of points there are two, One for ignition (Fires the both plugs at the same time) and one to trigger the injectors again at the same time
They are mounted on a tin plate behind that plastic cover at the front of the engine there are 4 small T25 or 4mm Allen screws that hold the black plastic alternator belt cover on slip it down and out, then you have the main belt pulley with a 16mm bolt in front of you
Up above you should see 3 x M8 nuts/bolts which hold / tension the alternator Slacken them all you should be able to jiggle the alternator down enough to slacken the belt and lift off
To get the pulley off you need to undo the crank bolt the 16mm hex headed bolt in the middle of the pulley
You need to prevent the engine from turning there are a few ways I prefer to use a big purpose ground screwdriver in the little oval timing hole on the right side of the engine (at the top where gearbox and engine join I have my big screwdriver ground down so it fits neatly into the flywheel teeth so I can insert the screw driver on the right and fit the socket and pull bar and press down on it and balance the bike from tipping
There is also a timing pin hole above the starter I think its an 8 mm maybe 10mm peg through the flywheel and into a pocket to lock the flywheel
Whatever method you use? Once the Belt is off and the bolt is removed The pulley will come off the crank When it does be careful of the inner disc part its the bit that triggers the hall sensors. There is a small bent tab that locks in to keep it in the correct timing a lot get squashed and they don;t fit correctly to time them up again
Behind the main pulley and Hall sensor trigger plate is a plate with the Hall sensors mounted The plate is held on x 3 m5 bolts
The wire travels up from the back of the pulley to the right side of the top of the engine and across to plug into the main loom above and behind the alternator You will need to have the tank off for this bit
usually wiring damage will be at the plate on the few cm of exposed insulation they crack up badly if there is any
Hope that gives you an Idea of what you need to do
