2017 with 12K, knock under 3K when very hot and accelerating

It's collection day for my new engined bike... will ask how to run in but whats the thoughts on here? they replaced the tyre pressure sensor and did its first MOT for free whilst it was in.
You can't complain about the service, but in a round about way, we are all paying for this. Make them better and drop the price a bit... win win??..
 
It's collection day for my new engined bike... will ask how to run in but whats the thoughts on here? they replaced the tyre pressure sensor and did its first MOT for free whilst it was in.
You can't complain about the service, but in a round about way, we are all paying for this. Make them better and drop the price a bit... win win??..

just ride it normally, don't red line it, keep it above 2,500rpm.Do use the throttle a bit to bed those rings in. Best done on country roads so you are up and down the gearbox.
 
Wow... what a differance that is! much smoother, no knocking through the pegs, and goes like mad.
I took at 1250 out whilst they were finishing off this AM and then had a go on mine with the new engine... and I've got to say there was not a huge differance.....
So the question is, in 12K miles how much do these engines go off and maybe lose HP ?.... I didn't think there was much up with mine until trying the new one ;)
 
no way will you lose hp at 12000 miles,you just had a shit engine
 
Thats interesting. Done 200 miles on it now and I'm finding the initial Buzz has started to go. It does feel better except the 5-6k range where I am feeling a dip. The other bike didn't do this as much as this one.
Guess what I'm seeing is slight differance in cam timings. Maybe as things bed in and chains stretch etc the timing gets better?
 
you would be in trouble if it needed the cam chains to stretch before it all lined up!
 
you would be in trouble if it needed the cam chains to stretch before it all lined up!

I've done this myself on chain driven cams, set it 2 deg advanced so it lines up when it beds in. The first few miles of a chains life can see it open up a good 2% ? but maybe they don't set to anticipate this..

see how it goes, if it does not improve I'll have them re-set the things. I have seen on here them coming from the factory not set right!... sometimes you wish you'd just bought Honda !!
 
I've done this myself on chain driven cams, set it 2 deg advanced so it lines up when it beds in. The first few miles of a chains life can see it open up a good 2% ? but maybe they don't set to anticipate this..

see how it goes, if it does not improve I'll have them re-set the things. I have seen on here them coming from the factory not set right!... sometimes you wish you'd just bought Honda !!

when did you do that 1965
 
went to visit the bike today .. its all in bits. They have found 'twist' on the RHS piston and a couple of marks in the bore.... Will continue next week

I think they meant the piston has twisted in the bore (damaging the cylinder wall....) usually comes with a bent rod.

It happens lots on AMG Mercedes. I think on these its normally where some one tuned it up…. and the owner didn't bother to warm the engine to std operating clearances before trying to push 600 bhp to the rear wheels when showing off

all engines from a 50 year old Suffolk punch to a SF90 should be run to 80C oil temp over 20 miles before using more than 1/3rd revs and 1/3rd throttle


https://manuals.bmw-motorrad.com/manuals/BA-Extern/IN/BA-INTERNET-COM/PDF/R_0A02_RM_0717_01.pdf
 
It does feel better except the 5-6k range where I am feeling a dip. The other bike didn't do this as much as this one.

which of course is the standard profile - the second surge should happen at 6k
 
I think they meant the piston has twisted in the bore (damaging the cylinder wall....) usually comes with a bent rod.

It happens lots on AMG Mercedes. I think on these its normally where some one tuned it up…. and the owner didn't bother to warm the engine to std operating clearances before trying to push 600 bhp to the rear wheels when showing off

all engines from a 50 year old Suffolk punch to a SF90 should be run to 80C oil temp over 20 miles before using more than 1/3rd revs and 1/3rd throttle


https://manuals.bmw-motorrad.com/manuals/BA-Extern/IN/BA-INTERNET-COM/PDF/R_0A02_RM_0717_01.pdf
Probably due to pinking or pre ignition. Bmw know about it but tell owners they all do that if you complain...
 
So my bike is going in next weekend for exploratory work, it’s making a knock on acceleration when very hot, or heat soaked (like stopping to re-fuel, it may do it pulling away).

Not all the time, only now and then.

I first noticed it last year when filtering in traffic, in first or second accelerating up to 3K. It’s not done it all winter due to the cold, but it has done it this year now it’s warm again.

It was serviced a couple of weeks ago and they said they could hear something on the RHS .

It’s not top end and sounds more central to me and rotating mass type of noise. Big ends, Mains, Thrust, piston slap? Anyway, they are taking the RHS head off and having a look. Not sure what that will tell them as you’ll only be able to see the bore?? :confused:

Put some decent petrol in it .
 
Put some decent petrol in it .

its why I was looking for the manual, can't believe they think 95 is recco. Especially when u can get free go if they wrote the map to suit

sounds more like the engineers built for 98 and someone in marketing thought they'd sell more if the manual says 95

would be interesting if you put some shell 99 in it once its run in and report back what you think... my k1300 said 98 or expect reduced mpg and performance if you use 95.... I was unaware until two mates mentioned it, ran BP and Esso super unleaded multiple times and nothing at all changed..... then one day it clicked, they are both 97 (the manual said 98 or higher !!!) Put in shell 99 and the bike was TRANSFORMED before I got off the forecourt….. massively better / faster / smoother
 
sounds more like the engineers built for 98 and someone in marketing thought they'd sell more if the manual says 95

Do you really believe that prospective owners read the handbook to confirm the fuel RON rating, before buying the bike?
 


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