Chain adjustment when touring

purds

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Having sold my GS 1200 and bought a 850 GSA my thoughts are turning to touring with a chain drive bike.
Would a ring spanner likely suffice as man enough to undo and re tighten the axle nut for chain adjustment?
I see the torque is 100 Nm - or around 75 ft/lbs in old money.
What do the tourers amongst you take - ring spanner would seem favourite??
 
Chains !

One of my favourite topics

If the chain is reasonably new and adjusted correctly before your departure it should not need adjustingt whilst on the trip ( assuming that it isnt RTW or many thousands of miles)

Keep it lubed and it will be fine

Problem with chasins is once the start to need adjusting regularly they need changing and too many people keep[ them too tight which causes them to strectch and then need adjusting

I usually expect to get at least 15K from a chain and sprockets and on the Hyperi was at 15K with out ever having had to adjust it after its 600 mile service
 
Thanks Rick
Our trips are often around 3k miles so I'm anticipating I must at least have the kit to adjust the chain if required.
Any thoughts on the Scottoiler option as you like chains so much?
 
Thanks Rick
Our trips are often around 3k miles so I'm anticipating I must at least have the kit to adjust the chain if required.
Any thoughts on the Scottoiler option as you like chains so much?

Many will say Scotoilers etc are the best thing since sliced bread

Personally i think they are more trouble than they are worth, turn it up if it rains turn it down again blah blah

It takes half a minute to do a touring chain lube and a can should more than last 3K trip as should adjustment if the chain is maintained

At worst really if the chain slackens a fair bit you will have some lash effect but it would have to be bad to make me bugger about adjusting in a hotel car park
 
Many will say Scotoilers etc are the best thing since sliced bread

Personally i think they are more trouble than they are worth, turn it up if it rains turn it down again blah blah

It takes half a minute to do a touring chain lube and a can should more than last 3K trip as should adjustment if the chain is maintained

At worst really if the chain slackens a fair bit you will have some lash effect but it would have to be bad to make me bugger about adjusting in a hotel car park

Agree with all of the above.

Forget about your chain and enjoy the ride thumb2

Andres

PS 100Nm and a ring spanner? No, not really.................maybe, just, to do it up but you'll struggle undoing it. It's not particularly good practice either, you want a decent socket.
 
Agree with all of the above.

Forget about your chain and enjoy the ride thumb2

Andres

PS 100Nm and a ring spanner? No, not really.................maybe, just, to do it up but you'll struggle undoing it. It's not particularly good practice either, you want a decent socket.

Of course if absolutely desperate to have it adjusted any bike repair place will do it for about a fiver
 
I used to take the appropriate socket, ratchet, and the small open ended spanner for the adjuster. Right tools for the job. Over 3k it will more than likely need adjustment, even if the chain’s new, and it will benefit from lube. We used to carry Wurth dry chain lube for the job. If you’ve got an OEM chain on consider changing it for DID gold. Much better kit.:thumb
 
Many will say Scotoilers etc are the best thing since sliced bread

Personally i think they are more trouble than they are worth, turn it up if it rains turn it down again blah blah

It takes half a minute to do a touring chain lube and a can should more than last 3K trip as should adjustment if the chain is maintained

At worst really if the chain slackens a fair bit you will have some lash effect but it would have to be bad to make me bugger about adjusting in a hotel car park

Agreed. I just take a small can of lube, and use it if it's been raining, or the chain looks dry.

As to adjusting the chain, isn't that what the butler is for?
 
Motion Pro make a good ring spanner / tyre lever combination. Use your foot to undo. I completely concur with DID Gold chains and Würth Dry Chain lub. I managed 35,000 miles with this combination.
 
Thanks guys. I’ve already got the Wurth lube but will continue with the OEM chain till it needs changing - the bike has only done 1000 miles.
 
Many will say Scotoilers etc are the best thing since sliced bread

Personally i think they are more trouble than they are worth, turn it up if it rains turn it down again blah blah

It takes half a minute to do a touring chain lube and a can should more than last 3K trip as should adjustment if the chain is maintained

At worst really if the chain slackens a fair bit you will have some lash effect but it would have to be bad to make me bugger about adjusting in a hotel car park

My E-Scottoiler sits at around one drop/90secs, in whatever weather. All very well saying that the chain can easily adjusted (when using spray-lube), but that adjustment is for wear on the chain and sprockets. The scottoiler appears to prevent that wear.

Scottoiler works for me.
 
My E-Scottoiler sits at around one drop/90secs, in whatever weather. All very well saying that the chain can easily adjusted (when using spray-lube), but that adjustment is for wear on the chain and sprockets. The scottoiler appears to prevent that wear.

Scottoiler works for me.

Well

The sprockets are at 2 fixed points so other than some slight wear on them it is the chain stretching that causes need for adjustment
 
Having sold my GS 1200 and bought a 850 GSA my thoughts are turning to touring with a chain drive bike.
Would a ring spanner likely suffice as man enough to undo and re tighten the axle nut for chain adjustment?
I see the torque is 100 Nm - or around 75 ft/lbs in old money.

What do the tourers amongst you take - ring spanner would seem favourite??


If the f850gsa has the same rear axle nut as the f850gs and if like the 850gs it does not have a suitable spanner in the tool kit then a simple answer is get a cheap standard S1000XR rear axle spanner from E bay for less than a tenner and stick it in your tool roll
 
Well

The sprockets are at 2 fixed points so other than some slight wear on them it is the chain stretching that causes need for adjustment

Pretty sure it is wear, unless you can show what part of a steel chain has exceeded the elastic limit for the steel - and 'stretched'.

Scottoiler appears to prevent that 'stretch'

Scottoil say: "The sprocket teeth often start to shape into a wave pattern. This causes chain and sprocket to wear unevenly. In an attempt to balance out the chain stretch the sprocket wears and adopts to the new spacing of the chain, which in turn will accelerate the stretch of chain links that are not yet worn." but then - they would :D

'stretch' is a convenient term, as increased length has to be countered by adjustment - but the actual physical effect is wear.
 
Watching
Just re entering the world of chains again.....Won’t a quick lube with GT85 do the job ??
 
Watching
Just re entering the world of chains again.....Won’t a quick lube with GT85 do the job ??

Nope its a solvent or partly solvent at any rate

SDOC white chain spray is my favourite very little fling and does the job
I don't trust that Wurth Dry stuff it washes off in the rain too easily ask Andy ....

PJ1 Blue label for the winter - its like fucking super glue though and does tend to fling but boy does it protect
 
Nope its a solvent or partly solvent at any rate

SDOC white chain spray is my favourite very little fling and does the job
I don't trust that Wurth Dry stuff it washes off in the rain too easily ask Andy ....

PJ1 Blue label for the winter - its like fucking super glue though and does tend to fling but boy does it protect

It will be good for that lead interface between sprocket and roller - the important mating surface.

There is a train of thought that "Always spray the lub on to the chain when it is hot, after returning from a run" Spray lubs contain a propellant/penetrant which on a hot chain, will flash off far quicker. I think it is best to lub a chain when it has cooled, so that the propellant carries the lub in to all nooks and crannies. But leaving sufficient time for the propellant to flash off before riding off.
 
It will be good for that lead interface between sprocket and roller - the important mating surface.

There is a train of thought that "Always spray the lub on to the chain when it is hot, after returning from a run" Spray lubs contain a propellant/penetrant which on a hot chain, will flash off far quicker. I think it is best to lub a chain when it has cooled, so that the propellant carries the lub in to all nooks and crannies. But leaving sufficient time for the propellant to flash off before riding off.

It is a very personal thing isn't it

Chain lube routine

I do both
Put it on a hot chain at the end of the day and give it a couple of seconds before running it through my hand and a rag to clean off any real grime
Then give it a nice over lube an hour or so later and leave it be
 
Nope its a solvent or partly solvent at any rate

SDOC white chain spray is my favourite very little fling and does the job
I don't trust that Wurth Dry stuff it washes off in the rain too easily ask Andy ....

PJ1 Blue label for the winter - its like fucking super glue though and does tend to fling but boy does it protect

Strange. I used Wurth for the best part of 8 years on my 800’s without a problem.Not all on the same chain mind:p
 
Strange. I used Wurth for the best part of 8 years on my 800’s without a problem.Not all on the same chain mind:p

He turned his nose up at a tin of Wurth sitting on the shelf at mine this morning :blast

I've been using it for years, probably on your recommendation, and it's good stuff .... but then Rick does pull wheelies and do doughnuts several times a day :D

:beerjug:
 


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