2005 R1150GS fuel pump problem.

Dickyb

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Hello GS'ers. I have searched the forums and need help please in understanding how to test the fuel pump in situ using the under tank connecter block.

A bit of background. I was tootling along the motorway here in Hungary yesterday, bike was going fine then shuddered to a halt. On trying to restart the bike I could not hear the fuel pump prime. I tested the fuse No 6 and swapped the horn and fuel pump relays over but no joy. The relays work and the fuse was good. I got recovered to home.

When I attempted to start the bike this morning the fuel pump made a half hearted attempt at priming, you could literally hear it gasping, I pressed the starter and the bike fired up. It died shortly after and the fuel pump made no further attempt at priming.

I read a long thread on here started by B4ndt regarding his fuel pump problems. In the thread it was suggested by Steptoe to run the fuel pump direct from the battery. This is what I need help with. Which wire(s) in the connector block do you attach the battery to. I have done a voltage check between the brown wire and the blue and white wire on the supply side of the connector box and get a reading of 11.7V.

Thank you very much.

DickyB
 
The 2 thick ones power the fuel pump, the thinner ones are for the level sender. The earth is common (i.e. a thick & thin wire to the same pin).
 
Thank you very much for your replies Cook1e and ynotbiker.

Cheers,

Dickyb
 
I just checked the wiring diagram - earth (negative) is brown, live feed to the pump is green/white.
 
I just checked the wiring diagram - earth (negative) is brown, live feed to the pump is green/white.

Thanks Cook1e. Just tested it. Getting just under 11 volts across those wires from the supply side with the starter switch pressed. Nothing at all from the pump when I connect it direct to the battery using the same coloured wires on the pump side. Jiggered fuel pump I reckon.

Does anybody know where I can source a new pump and filter please?

Thank you,

Dickyb
 
Before you go any further 11 volts is low! Is the battery charging properly

Also its time to get the pump plate out and check and see if you have a split rubber pipe and that the connections to the pump are good

There are a couple of possibilities :-

Pump has shat itself

Battery is not charging properly (Or you digital meter is crap)

U bend has split leading to no pressure in fuel rail

Internal coating as flaked off and has blocked the pump or the filter sock

Basically Diagnose it first before you go charging off buying parts

The Mahle Fuel Filter number is KL145 There is an Audi VW pump that fits but its a good idea to check your own pump out, to see if you need a new sock filter that the pump should draw fuel in through

N.B Clean the threads of the studs holding the fuel pump flange on, as best you can or you risk the studs shearing off
a dremel type thing and wire brush works well balance the tank in an old car tyre to prevent damage and throw a big wet towel over pipework to reduce risk of fire!

Also mark the fuel pump flange with a big felt marker with a single line from the pump body to the tank before you remove it to help you realign it :rob

and Order a new O ring for the fuel pump tank flange and each of your quick connectors :rob
 
Thank you very much DrFarkoff,

The bike is new to me and I'm very much on a learning curve with it. I shall follow your wise advice, slowly.

Cheers,

Dickyb
 
Check the 4 pin connector under the tank.
Mine was corroded, the pump still worked but couldn’t pull enough power to run properly / deliver enough petrol. Eventually it cut out intermittently.
Cleaned the connector & all’s well
 
Check the 4 pin connector under the tank.
Mine was corroded, the pump still worked but couldn’t pull enough power to run properly / deliver enough petrol. Eventually it cut out intermittently.
Cleaned the connector & all’s well

Thanks Ajay. I have checked that and it's not the problem.
 
Managed to get the pump out without breaking anything!

On the end of the pump the filter sock had a slight tear at one end. On opening the tear I found a long spring. Is that there to keep the sock from collapsing?

With the pump out I connected it momentarily to a 12 volt battery and the pump ran. I then connected the battery to the pump connector block and the pump ran, it wouldn't run when in the tank and surrounded by fuel.

Everything is pristine in there with no split hoses or debris. It would appear that the original hose clamps are still on the hoses The filter is a BMW KL145. The bike has 80,000kms on the clock and I am just wondering if it would be best just to replace the fuel and filter with new parts.

Any advice would be welcome.

Many thanks,

Dickyb

PS. With a bike battery reading of 12.91V I get 11.21V at the pump connector on the bike.
 
Might be worth swapping in a different relay to the Fuel pump relay position and trying again

Don't swap with the ABS one !!
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Thank you DrFarkoff,

Just connected the pump plate to the battery using the block connector on the plate to the one under the tank. Switched the ignition on, the pump whirred for a couple of seconds and then went off. Pressed the starter and the pump worked. I'm assuming this is normal behaviour. I am a bit reluctant to dissassemble the pump and filter at this stage because I am unsure as to how to get those one time clamps off. I'll do a bit more research.
 
New pump and filter arrived today and were fitted very slowly with frequent pauses to ensure that I hadn't made a hash of connections and stuff. Went for a test ride and all is well.

Thank you very much to all on here who offered advice.

Cheers,

DickyB
 


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