Problem with O2 Sensor 2007 R1200R

You could look at the lambda sensor graph with the GS911 again.
If it is still showing a constant 450mv on lambda 1 and nothing at the multi meter, it would suggest a dry joint between the final IC and the terminal on the BMSK.
If no output on lambda 1 with GS911, I would suspect a problem further into the BMSK.
 
Mistacat said:
You could look at the lambda sensor graph with the GS911 again.
If it is still showing a constant 450mv on lambda 1 and nothing at the multi meter, it would suggest a dry joint between the final IC and the terminal on the BMSK.
If no output on lambda 1 with GS911, I would suspect a problem further into the BMSK.
Click to expand...

Good idea.
 
Testing wiring with an ohm meter is a waste of time, you need to load test the wire .
An old school sparky will be useing a headlight bulb and a couple of bits of wire, make a circuit useing your wires.
If you want any further help pm me, I seldom see Lambda faults nowadays but have graphed literly hundreds over the years as a diagnostic tech.
 
Santa-2512 said:
Thats interesting, my understanding was that the O2 sensor measured the amount of air in the exhaust gases and used

either a pre programmed set of reference values in the ECU or used the MAF &/or MAP data as reference values, and this data combined gave the lambda value
Click to expand...

A Narrowband O2 sensor (without an AF-XIED) signals whether the mixture is richer or leaner than lambda =1 (14.7:1 for gasoline without ethanol). If richer, it sends a signal of about 700-800 mV, if leaner it sends a signal of 100-200 mV.

The BMSK calculates the length of the fuel pulse by looking at the TPS, RPM, baro pressure, intake temperature, oil temp, and a couple other parameters. It looks up the time based on those sensors from its internal tables. Then it looks at long term average trends, called long term trims and applies a correction. Then it fires the injector.

After firing the injector it reads the lambda sensor to see if it is richer or leaner than 14.7. Depending on what it reads it applies a correction to the next fueling pulse (called a short term trim).

It’s more complicated than this but the above is a good outline.

The way the O2 sensor works is that the hot exhaust gas passes by a special metal that has fresh air (coming down the wires) on the other side. When the sensor is cold, it looks like an open circuit. When it’s hot it looks like a battery whose voltage depends on how much oxygen is in the exhaust. If there is no O2 in the exhaust it has a voltage around 800 mV. If there is any O2 left over then it has a voltage less than 200 mV.
 
Cheers all

I'll get stuck into it again over the weekend. I agree with a lot of the comments here. Load testing wires makes sense. I will run 2 new wires all the way down and try that first.

Thanks again for all the info.and opinions. It's good to talk
 
Hey Roger. Not yet.

I'll be looking at it in the next day or so. Am gonna remove and open up the bmsk unit so see if I can find anything obvious.

Fergus
 
its bonded on tight, heat gun and work your way round the edges with a screw driver

not sure what you'll be able to do inside - videos on youtube of car bods breaking them open, same thing's used on some of the cars
 
botus said:
its bonded on tight, heat gun and work your way round the edges with a screw driver

not sure what you'll be able to do inside - videos on youtube of car bods breaking them open, same thing's used on some of the cars
Click to expand...

Was just gonna ask the question - I have the module removed and on the bench but am struggling to open it.

Felt like I was going to break something by levering around the edges with some small screwdrivers.

I'll try the heat-gun trick

20201007_104140-X4.jpg
 
ferguscawley said:
Was just gonna ask the question - I have the module removed and on the bench but am struggling to open it.
Click to expand...

If you're struggling to pop the ECU apart i'd put the tools down and stop right there. :D
 
Update

Got it open using heat gun technique. (Sorry to disappoint Steppers).

Testing continuity from pins on the connector through to the soldered joints on the board (pins 90 and 43 are the ones in question).

All good. No obvious damage or dry joints.

Next stepp will be to run 2 new wires from the BMSK connector down to the O2 sensor itself I suppose.

pins-X3.jpg
 
ferguscawley said:
Update

Got it open using heat gun technique. (Sorry to disappoint Steppers).

Testing continuity from pins on the connector through to the soldered joints on the board (pins 90 and 43 are the ones in question).

All good. No obvious damage or dry joints.

Next stepp will be to run 2 new wires from the BMSK connector down to the O2 sensor itself I suppose.

pins-X3.jpg
Click to expand...

Personally i'd reflow all the pins or at least the ones in doubt
 
Further update:

I reflowed the joints in question. I then reassembled and added 2 new wires to replace the loom wires.

No improvement. Reading zero volts on the wires that should connect to the O2 sensor black and grey wires.

Really disappointing
 
Looks like there is a fault somewhere in the BMSK. Possibly as a result of previous owner - who knows. It's a strange one.

Think I'll try to source a used Power Commander and fit that

Fergus
 
Thanks for the replies. Board and copper tracks look good though.

Arrow points to pin 90. Pin 43 looks just as cean from a PCB tracks perspective.
effa916b7f8cbbea16297377f718b089.jpg
 
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