2001 R1150R final drive bearing replacement - help and advice needed please

Mark Hooton

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Guys/Gals/Others :D

The final drive bearing seems to need replacement on Mick`s 2001 R1150R - can anyone offer some help and guidance on how it`s done please?

Thanks in advance :thumb
 
is it the same as a GS ? drain oil , remove caliper and wheel , undo bolts holding casing on , tap off casing CAREFULLY , knock out crown wheel , pry out seal , heat casing , tap out bearing . make tea , smoke fag , meanwhile new bearing in freezer , drop it into casing which is hot , knock in seal , clean crownwheel , where it goes through the seal/bearing , drop of bearing fix if needed , knock in crownwheel ,refit casing and c/wheel , tighten bolts , fill with oil .

you should be able to do this at the side of the road , it is that easy .


ps ....are you the **** in scunthorpe ? :D

when did the forum ban the word, c you next tuesday ?
 
There are a couple of excellent videos on YouTube to show what to do. They are what I used to do it myselfyou will need a 7mm Allen key to remove the final drive cover bolts.

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is it the same as a GS ? drain oil , remove caliper and wheel , undo bolts holding casing on , tap off casing CAREFULLY , knock out crown wheel , pry out seal , heat casing , tap out bearing . make tea , smoke fag , meanwhile new bearing in freezer , drop it into casing which is hot , knock in seal , clean crownwheel , where it goes through the seal/bearing , drop of bearing fix if needed , knock in crownwheel ,refit casing and c/wheel , tighten bolts , fill with oil .

you should be able to do this at the side of the road , it is that easy .


ps ....are you the **** in scunthorpe ? :D

when did the forum ban the word, c you next tuesday ?
Tap out the bearing... good luck with that one .

You should have said get the crown wheel and bearing really really hot then get every feckin wedge, extractor, lever in there that you can. Once it's moved a few mm, it's a little more approachable with a regular extractor tool - while it's still hot.

Once the bearing is off, it's plain sailing - crown when I'm the freezer, then a little heat (60°?) on the bearing. From there on its just screws and reassembly.

But saying all that, it's actually very straight forward which is quite remarkable for the job it does.

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This youtube video gives you a detailed description of what is involved https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVK_lpFoFok&t=96s

In this rebuild the mechanic says you don't need to worry about reshimming because the new bearing will be the same size as the old one. However if the shims were not correctly measured in the first place, this can lead to premature wear/ failure of your bearing and final drive.

Mikeyboy on this forum is a well respected mechanic who rebuilds final drives. Not cheap mind, though good preventative maintenance in the long term!
 
Tap out the bearing... good luck with that one .

You should have said get the crown wheel and bearing really really hot then get every feckin wedge, extractor, lever in there that you can. Once it's moved a few mm, it's a little more approachable with a regular extractor tool - while it's still hot.

i've never had a problem getting them out ? 2 blocks of wood under hot casing ( boiled in water at the side of the road ) tapped out bit by bit. don't make tea with the water ...
 
i've never had a problem getting them out ? 2 blocks of wood under hot casing ( boiled in water at the side of the road ) tapped out bit by bit. don't make tea with the water ...
Not sure if we're talking about precisely the same thing? I mean getting the bearing off the crown wheel... I've done the job twice and getting it off was fun. No way if want to do on the road side, though I accept it must be possible, just even more of a struggle. All other aspects of the job are really straightforward.

Unless you have an extractor tool with you of course?!

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You can use tire irons to get the bearing off.
No need to warm it up.

Like this.

ACtC-3e3ujclPhgGVyrifnjLQ_yWJwoERdtqNxTanlPEX2WszvY2kSFURk72VfSYCnldflIX2fXJAC2WuqCmxyCEwkLM65uaHrhXMyjJPjBfOp_beLFXWzGvqr37RuI-joErfleRB9Vef6DoQR-OmRUbaeFs=w822-h617-no
 
I used a cold chisel and worked my way round the bearing easing it up till it just popped off..then the hub in the freezer for a few hrs n the bearing in the oven for 10 mins hub out freezer and bearing dropped onto hub with a plink then the cover into oven heated up and pressed onto hub/bearing
 
I cut the inner race of the bearing off with an angle grinder in a shed in Southfork Colorado. Cut most of the way through on opposing sides then broke it away with a cold chisel and a lump hammer. :)
 
You can use tire irons to get the bearing off.
No need to warm it up.

Like this.

ACtC-3e3ujclPhgGVyrifnjLQ_yWJwoERdtqNxTanlPEX2WszvY2kSFURk72VfSYCnldflIX2fXJAC2WuqCmxyCEwkLM65uaHrhXMyjJPjBfOp_beLFXWzGvqr37RuI-joErfleRB9Vef6DoQR-OmRUbaeFs=w822-h617-no
That looks like a very neat idea .

Can't imagine you'd do it without heat though?!

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That looks like a very neat idea .

Can't imagine you'd do it without heat though?!

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Easiest way of doing it although getting the bearing to move enough tto get the levers in is the trick, I use 2 thin, wide wedge.
Heat the bearing before fitting and it'll drop on.
Warming the case before reffiting not only makes it easier but prevent any possibility of side loading the bearing.

I've fitted one in this way is a dusty Moroccan car park using a camping stove and pan to heat the bearing.
 
Easiest way of doing it although getting the bearing to move enough tto get the levers in is the trick, I use 2 thin, wide wedge.

Yea, that is the bit I've found tricky, getting something in there to get it started. Once there's a little room for something bigger, it gets moving.

I do like the idea of those tyre levers though. Lightweight, good leverage and of course useful for other jobs.

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Guys/Gals/Others :D

The final drive bearing seems to need replacement on Mick`s 2001 R1150R - can anyone offer some help and guidance on how it`s done please?

Thanks in advance :thumb

I managed it in a garage without electricity or much light. It rode grand for four thousand miles before I sold it. If I can do it, trust me, most can.
 
I did this operation with an ‘assistant’ recently. If anyone thinks that they are being ripped off with the price of the new bearing (and seal), PM me for a cheap source for both.......
 


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