2nd step, 1995 R1100GS driveshaft replacement

Freeman1100GS

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I had a previous post to help me figure out my issue. Now that I have removed my rear wheel and swingarm I discovered that its the upper part of the driveshaft near the transmission that has broken into pieces. Are there any good threads online for:

Removing the broken head of the driveshaft from the transmission spline
and
Installation steps of a new driveshaft


I have a good manual but it doesn't reference all the little things you need to know.

any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Lever the broken section off the gearbox output shaft with a screwdriver/pry bar. It just “pops” off........ think yourself lucky you haven’t got this mess to put right on a 1200 :D
 

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Steptoe said:
think yourself lucky you haven’t got this mess to put right on a 1200 :D

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Dear Gawd that's a mess !!

Judging by the round ends of the bearing carrier its been doing that a while???

Vibration must have been horrendous ! :eek
 
Freeman you have an 1100 So that makes it easier!

Just while you are that far into the bike

check the gearbox output seal for signs of leaking or damage from debris!

Have you got the centre stand tied forward to the front wheel So that you cannot accidentally push the bike forward and off the stand ??

and remove and free up the clutch pivot arm and check the rubber boot for crazing and likelihood to break up now that it will be used frequently again

It is worth doing all this while you are there!

In fact If it was me and I intended to keep the bike I would quite honestly go have a look in the clutch area !

Its probably about 3 hours more work to strip and clean, lubricate and rebuild it as you go

But just remember If you are in that far Its not wasted time !!

to have a better balance of whether or not to proceed to the clutch area ?

Remove the starter and have a look in

If its very "oily" Definitely worth checking it out for the sake of 6 small clutch bolts and washers and maybe the 5 flywheel bolts if you pop it off
Also while you are there give the starter nose area a good clean out and a drip or two of oil on the nose bushing
 
Thank you for that and all very good points. I have to say with all those things said I do have a bit of luck there. The clutch was replaced at a dealer right before I bought it. The output seal shows no signs of wear or leaking and believe it or not I had to replace the starter in the middle of my last trip so it's new and I saw no signs or debris or oil of any kind. Nice and clean.
 
Freeman1100GS said:
Thank you for that and all very good points. I have to say with all those things said I do have a bit of luck there. The clutch was replaced at a dealer right before I bought it. The output seal shows no signs of wear or leaking and believe it or not I had to replace the starter in the middle of my last trip so it's new and I saw no signs or debris or oil of any kind. Nice and clean.
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In that case just check your clutch cable and lever arm Rubber boot set up when you are there You dont want a lot of wobble on that pivot bush Makes the clutch heavy

The rest is taken care of! :rob

Just be sure to click the new propshaft home so that the expanding circlip grips the end as per the one your remove

also look into Nushing.com for replacements for the Paralever needle bearings they have become shockingly expensive
 
Nushings are the mutts nuts for sure. If the neutral light is a bit lazy or your gear position indicator isn't working now is the time to fix them.
 
this may be a stupid question, but what exactly is the "circlip"? does it have anything to do with removing the head of the driveshaft off of the transmission output spline?
 
Freeman1100GS said:
this may be a stupid question, but what exactly is the "circlip"? does it have anything to do with removing the head of the driveshaft off of the transmission output spline?
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You noticed that it doesn;t just fall off ??

So either on the end of the output shaft or inside the driveshaft end, you will find a wire "ring" about half an inch short of being the complete diameter It clips in a groove that is on both components and prevents them from sliding apart
 
Freeman1100GS said:
next dumb question. How do I post pictures from my desktop on this forum?
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If you are using the quick reply box look below and to the right and you should see "go advanced"

Once you are in advanced mode there is a "preview" of what you have written and when you scroll down you will see the box where you write your replies

Below that is a "manage attachments" button

Click it and a window will pop up

As per the attached Screenshot below

So you navigate to the folder and you select one pic at a time and then you upload up to 4 in one go and close that window They are now attached to your post

Be warned there are size limits on what you upload normal photo format is .jpeg or .jpg and is 244Kb If you are uploading 4photos its 244Kb each

So you need to get the photos you want and size them down to under 244Kb
 

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Freeman1100GS said:
this may be a stupid question, but what exactly is the "circlip"? does it have anything to do with removing the head of the driveshaft off of the transmission output spline?
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The only stupid questions are the ones you wish you'd asked! :D
 
If you know how to resize photos look no further

I use pixresizer its a free program and easy to use

If you get it and install it ?

There are two tabs "work with single file" and "work with multiple files"

Choose Multiple files and for your "source" file, you navigate to the folder where you have the pictures that you want to share on here and select that one

N.B. (Don;t choose the main photos file or you will end up with smaller duplicates of all the photos in there !!)
So I always make a folder specifically for the subject matter

in your case for example I would make a folder called maybe "R1100GS rebuild" as the main folder

Then inside that one create more folders

Engine
Gearbox
Driveshaft etc

So back to resizing the photos when you select the destination folder chose the same folder "but" create another called "Smaller" and make that the destination so all the small ones go in there and you know how to navigate to it to select them to post them up on here

Also this may help Instead of my possibly confused ramblings above

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=PIXresizer
 
DrFarkoff said:
look into Nushing.com for replacements for the Paralever needle bearings they have become shockingly expensive
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I fitted Nushings to my 1150GS. I was meticulous about installing them according to the instructions but they only lasted 17k km. I wasn’t impressed. The original bearings lasted 44k, which makes the Nushings dearer per kilometre. I replaced them with greaseable bushings from Motorworks.
 
tadhgocuilleain said:
I fitted Nushings to my 1150GS. I was meticulous about installing them according to the instructions but they only lasted 17k km. I wasn’t impressed. The original bearings lasted 44k, which makes the Nushings dearer per kilometre. I replaced them with greaseable bushings from Motorworks.
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17K KM is for sure premature, I wouldn't be impressed either.

What is your bike weight and riding style?

you are in the minority just FYI, out of over 500 sets out there, less than 4 that I have been made aware of have failed prematurely, I have to assume something is different with those sets, installation or weight/riding style.

It would be helpful if folks would let me know when they are having issues with Nushings, shoot me an email with installation details, what the problem was and photos if you have any, I would certainly like to figure out what went wrong,and I will gladly send you another set. Nushings should and usually do last far longer than 17K KM.


17K KM for $69 USD versus 44K KM for $200 USD


I will let someone else check that math.....
 
Hi Matt,

I wasn't trying to have a dig at you or Nushings. I was expressing my own experience of Nushings because I did have great expectations when I bought my Nushings and was disappointed.

mouthfulloflake said:
What is your bike weight and riding style?
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My bike is an R1150 GS Adventure. I'm about 80kg and ride with a mix of the bike empty and loaded with camping gear. I mostly ride tarmac, sometimes bumpy back roads and occasional green-laning. Nothing too stressful for the bike.

mouthfulloflake said:
you are in the minority just FYI, out of over 500 sets out there, less than 4 that I have been made aware of have failed prematurely, I have to assume something is different with those sets, installation or weight/riding style.
Click to expand...
I know I'm in the minority. That's why I was disappointed that they didn't perform as I expected.
You can see exactly how I installed them here because I wrote a blog post about it at the time.


mouthfulloflake said:
17K KM for $69 USD versus 44K KM for $200 USD


I will let someone else check that math.....
Click to expand...
You're right. Those figures don't add up. I was writing the figures from memory. At the time that I was replacing them, I did the maths and decided that Nushings worked out dearer per km. I don't remember what prices I was using but may have made a mistake in my calculations.


mouthfulloflake said:
It would be helpful if folks would let me know when they are having issues with Nushings, shoot me an email with installation details, what the problem was and photos if you have any, I would certainly like to figure out what went wrong
Click to expand...
I think I may have photos and a video but I might have deleted them recently. I still have the Nushings in the garage, so I can take more photos and email them to you.
 
Freeman1100GS said:
I see what the circlip is now, but how do I remove it? Do I need a special tool?
Click to expand...

Is it in the output shaft or the Propshaft?

If its in the propshaft it should be in the new one too

If its on the Output shaft Just leave it there "BUT" make sure that you grease both parts well before you mate them together
 
tadhgocuilleain said:
I fitted Nushings to my 1150GS. I was meticulous about installing them according to the instructions but they only lasted 17k km. I wasn’t impressed. The original bearings lasted 44k, which makes the Nushings dearer per kilometre. I replaced them with greaseable bushings from Motorworks.
Click to expand...

44k on the factory bearings sounds low to me too. Plenty 100k bikes still on the original bearings and working well. Mine is on 101k, bought nushings from matt to replace as and when needed, but not needed upon last check. Mates on 126k and his were fine when I checked them last too, though dont know if his have been replaced before by a PO.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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