R80GS Oil Change

Arsey

Arsey

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Ok ,ok , I know it’s a stupid question !
I want to do an oil change on my Mikeyboy special:

1eff20037166188c2ad2c29e8e6672d4.jpg


I know it’s shocking, but I’ve never done an oil change on a bike before and thought there might just be a ‘How To...’ thread on here,but I’ve done a search and can’t find anything.
Has it not been covered in the past ?

Ta

I’ve watched a video or two such as this one :

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iaE0ax0PggQ" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Just really after useful info such as best place to get kit from and possibly , dare I say it, what’s the best oil to use, this being the first service after Mikeyboy rebuilt the engine.
 
YouTube is the best place

A tip
Old out of the bottom & new in the top
Don’t forget the gearbox too, whilst you’re at it
 
Why not drop Mikeyboy a pm and ask for the steps eg remove this , fill to X etc.
Dont forget Latex gloves , used engine oil has some nasties in it.
 
Dead easy, even I can do it.

Get some new oil (of the correct spec) for engine and gearbox. (different oils although the gearbox will do the final drive too)
Get a Service Kit from somewhere like Motobins.
Unscrew dipstick filler cap and leave in but loose.
Put container under bike (on centrestand) and undo bolt at the end of the engine. Oil will come out all over the floor. Reposition container.
On RHS of bike, take off oil filter cover, taking note (or photos) of rubber o'ring (against cover) and shim or shims, so you can replace with the same number.
Remove oil filter. You'll need to put a container under this as oil will come out too.

When empty put in a new filter, the right way round, new 'o' ring and the shims and tighten up. Also put in the bolt at the bottom of the engine, using new copper crush washers provided in the kit.

Fill with appropriate amount of new oil. (A Haynes manual is your friend)

Do similar with the the gearbox. The filler plug is on the LHS and needs an allen key. You will skin at least one knucle undoing this.

Undo bolt under the gearbox. Oil will pour out all over the place. Reposition the container. Gear oil smells.

When empty, takes ages, put in the drain plug using the new crush washer. Fill with oil in the filler hole. You're supposed to know how much oil to put in, but the rule of thumb is fill it until it starts coming out again, then put the filler plug in.

I think yours is a paralever so I don't think there's oil in the shaft, so just do the same with the FD as you did with the gearbox and with the same oil. Drain plug at the bottom, the filler is at the end, but they're really awkward to get out and you can strip the threads easily, so you can take the breather plug out and fill from there. 350 ml if I remember correctly.

You'll also get new sparkplugs and an airfilter in the service kit. You can swap these using a spanner and screwdriver, respectively.

Someone will be along to fill in anything I've missed.
 
tuftywhite said:
Dead easy, even I can do it.

Get some new oil (of the correct spec) for engine and gearbox. (different oils although the gearbox will do the final drive too)
Get a Service Kit from somewhere like Motobins.
Unscrew dipstick filler cap and leave in but loose.
Put container under bike (on centrestand) and undo bolt at the end of the engine. Oil will come out all over the floor. Reposition container.
On RHS of bike, take off oil filter cover, taking note (or photos) of rubber o'ring (against cover) and shim or shims, so you can replace with the same number.
Remove oil filter. You'll need to put a container under this as oil will come out too.

When empty put in a new filter, the right way round, new 'o' ring and the shims and tighten up. Also put in the bolt at the bottom of the engine, using new copper crush washers provided in the kit.

Fill with appropriate amount of new oil. (A Haynes manual is your friend)

Do similar with the the gearbox. The filler plug is on the LHS and needs an allen key. You will skin at least one knucle undoing this.

Undo bolt under the gearbox. Oil will pour out all over the place. Reposition the container. Gear oil smells.

When empty, takes ages, put in the drain plug using the new crush washer. Fill with oil in the filler hole. You're supposed to know how much oil to put in, but the rule of thumb is fill it until it starts coming out again, then put the filler plug in.

I think yours is a paralever so I don't think there's oil in the shaft, so just do the same with the FD as you did with the gearbox and with the same oil. Drain plug at the bottom, the filler is at the end, but they're really awkward to get out and you can strip the threads easily, so you can take the breather plug out and fill from there. 350 ml if I remember correctly.

You'll also get new sparkplugs and an airfilter in the service kit. You can swap these using a spanner and screwdriver, respectively.

Someone will be along to fill in anything I've missed.
Click to expand...

That’s great advice,ta.

Pretty much ties in with the vid I posted above.

I ordered the service kit from Motorworks :

6f374f4b7d1e8b87a7b96fbd163279ce.jpg

ae917c258546c9947192aafb8df02ba2.jpg



Together with some 80W90 gearbox oil as listed.

The only thing I didn’t get was the engine oil, which I’ll get locally.

Also ordered a funnel and drip tray.

From that schematic above it looks like I need 2.25l of engine oil and 0.8 gearbox oil.
 
Should have gone to Motobins for the kit, not only do you get a spare shim for the oil filter, but more importantly, they give you a teabag, sachet of Nescafe and a biscuit!!

Gearbox oil needs to be GL5 (or better), not just 80w90.

I also forgot that you're supposed to check the valve clearance, but I leave that to my man in Holwell.
 
tuftywhite said:
.................

Someone will be along to fill in anything I've missed.
Click to expand...

Before you drain the oil take the bike for a ride and get her up to operating temp.

This will ensure that as well as skinning a knuckle you will burn yourself (it also thins the oil and allows it to drain properly) :thumb

Andres
 
As above. Plus, when you remove the filter, pay careful attention to the positioning and sequence of any steel shims, rubber spacers / gaskets and paper gaskets (if any). Mikeyboy will have done it right. Reassemble as per his work and you will not go wrong.
 
Ask Mikeyboy if you need a "bendy" or straight oil filter.

I always use a bendy as it fits regadless if you need a straight or bendy.

Also, does it have an oil cooler fitted ?. If so you'll need the oil cooler filter.
 
tuftywhite said:
Dead easy, even I can do it.

Get some new oil (of the correct spec) for engine and gearbox. (different oils although the gearbox will do the final drive too)
Get a Service Kit from somewhere like Motobins.
Unscrew dipstick filler cap and leave in but loose.
Put container under bike (on centrestand) and undo bolt at the end of the engine. Oil will come out all over the floor. Reposition container.
On RHS of bike, take off oil filter cover, taking note (or photos) of rubber o'ring (against cover) and shim or shims, so you can replace with the same number.
Remove oil filter. You'll need to put a container under this as oil will come out too.

When empty put in a new filter, the right way round, new 'o' ring and the shims and tighten up. Also put in the bolt at the bottom of the engine, using new copper crush washers provided in the kit.

Fill with appropriate amount of new oil. (A Haynes manual is your friend)

Do similar with the the gearbox. The filler plug is on the LHS and needs an allen key. You will skin at least one knucle undoing this.

Undo bolt under the gearbox. Oil will pour out all over the place. Reposition the container. Gear oil smells.

When empty, takes ages, put in the drain plug using the new crush washer. Fill with oil in the filler hole. You're supposed to know how much oil to put in, but the rule of thumb is fill it until it starts coming out again, then put the filler plug in.

I think yours is a paralever so I don't think there's oil in the shaft, so just do the same with the FD as you did with the gearbox and with the same oil. Drain plug at the bottom, the filler is at the end, but they're really awkward to get out and you can strip the threads easily, so you can take the breather plug out and fill from there. 350 ml if I remember correctly.

You'll also get new sparkplugs and an airfilter in the service kit. You can swap these using a spanner and screwdriver, respectively.

Someone will be along to fill in anything I've missed.
Click to expand...

Yes, mine’s a Paralever.

Tetley said:
Check this out, I know he is draining the fluids but it gives you a good idea of what to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6uUVpp7PTCU&feature=share
Click to expand...

Very useful, ta

Steptoe said:
Ask Mikeyboy if you need a "bendy" or straight oil filter.

I always use a bendy as it fits regadless if you need a straight or bendy.

Also, does it have an oil cooler fitted ?. If so you'll need the oil cooler filter.
Click to expand...

I’ve PM’d da man.

Thanks again all.
 
Open the filler before you drain the oil on the gearbox and final drive, just in case you can't open the filler after draining as you won't be able to ride it to your local expert then. Probably something that is more likely to happen on a 4 wheelers final drive but costs nothing to do it in that order anyway.
 
All of this is all very well, help, video's etc, what about a Haynes or Clymer manual, these are great for getting to know your bike with easy step by step instructions with pictures and words!!!
A good friend works at a BMW parts supply company and is always dumbfounded at the amount of people who don't have a manual and will attempt working on their bikes blindly, and what really pisses him off is how often they ask for torque settings.. of course he knows them all off the top of his head!!!!!!!!
Buy a F'''''' manual..
Rant over, its a piece of cake..
Steve
 
If you put the bike on the side stand when you take the oil filter out, you don't get the residual oil in the filter housing coming out all over the place... then move the catching container suitably and lift the bike off the side stand and lean it a bit... the cupful of oil in the housing can then be drained into the container under control by leaning.
 
GSSTEVE said:
All of this is all very well, help, video's etc, what about a Haynes or Clymer manual, these are great for getting to know your bike with easy step by step instructions with pictures and words!!!
A good friend works at a BMW parts supply company and is always dumbfounded at the amount of people who don't have a manual and will attempt working on their bikes blindly, and what really pisses him off is how often they ask for torque settings.. of course he knows them all off the top of his head!!!!!!!!
Buy a F'''''' manual..
Rant over, its a piece of cake..
Steve
Click to expand...

It turned up yesterday


e800028010a1fe95c58426fe947c7408.jpg


King Rat said:
If you put the bike on the side stand when you take the oil filter out, you don't get the residual oil in the filter housing coming out all over the place... then move the catching container suitably and lift the bike off the side stand and lean it a bit... the cupful of oil in the housing can then be drained into the container under control by leaning.
Click to expand...

Thanks, useful tip.

Service kit arrived today so will most likely get cracking tomorrow.
 
King Rat said:
If you put the bike on the side stand when you take the oil filter out, you don't get the residual oil in the filter housing coming out all over the place... then move the catching container suitably and lift the bike off the side stand and lean it a bit... the cupful of oil in the housing can then be drained into the container under control by leaning.
Click to expand...

That sounds so much easier than putting the bike on the centre stand with a bowl under the oil filter housing.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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