R80G/S Travel Bike swing arm FD options ...

Nin

Nin

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Folks

I’m building up a long distance travel bike based on an R80G/S. Front end, engine and gearbox are all pretty straightforward but I’ve stalled a bit on the best option for the final drive and swing arm.

What I want it achieve are:

- rear disc brake
- longer suspension travel and ground clearance
- 18” rear wheel
- robust, reliable, readily available parts

Currently I’m looking at:

- 1100GS swing arm and FD
- extended Mono swing arm (doesn’t get me a disk brake)
- something else I haven’t thought of yet

What’s the advice from the collective?

Nin


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Nin said:
Folks

I’m building up a long distance travel bike based on an R80G/S. Front end, engine and gearbox are all pretty straightforward but I’ve stalled a bit on the best option for the final drive and swing arm.

What I want it achieve are:

- rear disc brake
- longer suspension travel and ground clearance
- 18” rear wheel
- robust, reliable, readily available parts

Currently I’m looking at:

- 1100GS swing arm and FD
- extended Mono swing arm (doesn’t get me a disk brake)
- something else I haven’t thought of yet

What’s the advice from the collective?

Nin


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...

Daithi who used to frequent the forum did it with a K100 back end and a respoked rear wheel by Hagon I think he said Wheel had to be spoked 20mm toward FD
 
I lashed one up a few years ago with a view to fitting a 1100 swinging arm into a paralever frame. The 1100 swinging will fit straight into the mono frame but needs a spacer to fit in the paralever.

As mentioned above the biggest problem is getting the wheel to sit central in the frame. You need to have the wheel laced with a huge offset and there's only a few places to get this done. Woodies wheels in the states and somebody over here I believe.

Ive heard the 1100 bevel is narrower and obviously comes with the disc mounted to the bevel drive instead of the wheel making things easier but you will then need a narrow rim fitting to the bike

The downside of this is you end up with a pretty big cumbersome bike with lots of compromises and a low powered engine and limited steering lock unless you buy expensive yokes to give an offset but then you compromise the steering.

Id buy an africa twin and just ride it :)

Picture below showing the offset. I dont think you can completely eliminta the offset just reduce it.

Garry H is the man to talk to. He had a bike built by crazy ivan a few years ago that was all modded. He also built one himself. I seem to remember Garry saying the rear shock mount took some sorting out https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...Richie-Moore?p=3214126&viewfull=1#post3214126

HPN bevel here https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...Richie-Moore?p=3208848&viewfull=1#post3208848
 

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Speak to Mike Overy (Mikeyboy) at Overland and Classics’s
 
Many thanks gents, some excellent advice.

Why a disc brake? I’ll be riding through a lot of sand and rivers and nasty stuff so just trying to avoid a problem of wet Sandy drum brakes - but as others note I’d hardly use it anyway.

Front end I think with be 48mm USD comp enduro forks on the SWT-sports yokes, with single 320mm disc. Frame is in the process of being strengthened to take it.

I have a kick start gearbox that’s having low first and high 5th fitted. Engine will have the Siebenrock 1000 kit and 320 cam but otherwise stock. Obvs all the wearing parts will be replaced.

Long distance travel? At least 4 weeks on the road, possibly Mongolia and the Stans to Nepal, possibly South America. I might do the TET on it as well.

I’m tending towards a longer mono and keeping the 3 stud drive for simplicity and to give ground clearance. At 6’3” height isn’t an issue.


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Thanks gents, after taking account of your advice and a couple of chats off line, it’ll be the extended mono option after all.

There’s an interesting thread on ADVRider about swapping in a 4 stud FD, so I have options in case the 3-stud turns out to be gash or breaks, which was a worry.

I’m not planning to write up this build as it’s going to take a while.

You’ll be pleased to know if you’re following my Guzzi Cali thread that I’m getting towards end point on that now.




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I think Steptoe had the best advice Keep it as standard as you can

That way you can find bits to make it work again

"but" the Higher output alternator and updated electrics is a good idea in my book

Nice to be able to use the heated grips and have spare for a waistcoat and or heated socks if the going gets tough
 
DrFarkoff said:
I think Steptoe had the best advice Keep it as standard as you can

That way you can find bits to make it work again

"but" the Higher output alternator and updated electrics is a good idea in my book

Nice to be able to use the heated grips and have spare for a waistcoat and or heated socks if the going gets tough
Click to expand...

Thank you Dr, agreed. I don’t go down the shops now without my warmnsafe jacket on.

Emerald Isle 600w kit (and ignition) specced .


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Nin said:
Thank you Dr, agreed. I don’t go down the shops now without my warmnsafe jacket on.

Emerald Isle 600w kit (and ignition) specced
Click to expand...

You might want to take a Look at https://www.wedgetailsystems.com.au Its a few guys I have been following for years have developed this in the wake of the Big Red ign system It gas very favourable results Except getting one back is a pain

Also I was meaning suspension wise ... Standard will likely cope with a lot I mean Sam Manicom has over 275000 miles on his bike and its pretty much standard "overall"

If you "jack" the suspension you will be putting excessive pressure on the UJ's and the bearings and perhaps even the output shaft in the gearbox

If you got to beefier forks and heavier yokes you will be putting additional flex into the frame that the old forks would have flexed to reduce the energy transfer into the frame

Paralever's are pretty capable and in reality I think will cope fairly well with the "mission" I'd even consider mimicking the Low compression R80ST engine for the low end torque rather than top end HP

All valid and less expensive in reality

If you want to build a tesco-asda-sainsbury bling bike then Carry Ye on and Good Luck upon those most heinous journeys :aidan
 
1100 setup transforms the bike
It is the most hassle but by far the best
Still use mine...One of my favorite bikes:thumb
 

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Nin said:
Thanks gents, after taking account of your advice and a couple of chats off line, it’ll be the extended mono option after all.

There’s an interesting thread on ADVRider about swapping in a 4 stud FD, so I have options in case the 3-stud turns out to be gash or breaks, which was a worry.

I’m not planning to write up this build as it’s going to take a while.

You’ll be pleased to know if you’re following my Guzzi Cali thread that I’m getting towards end point on that now.




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Click to expand...

Nin

You must be ex-forces with a term like "gash".

Keep going with the project what we need is photos, it will be good for our "mental health".
 
Ha Barney you’re clearly sneaky beaky.


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My limited experience: My standard paralever was fine for our trip to Cape Town back in the day, having had rear discs on most bikes since, especially enduro bikes, makes you realise that they are pretty handy. GS and G/S drums can be set up to work well enough though.

I have looked at fitting an 1100 paralever to my 80G/S but went for the simpler extended monolever and DRZ forks which is good enough for me - better rear shock be be fitted before any long trips but other than that its the best on/off road (solo) bike for me as I’m not one these days for blowing £12k on a new techo bike which I wouldn’t be able to fix at the roadside myself.
 
DrFarkoff said:
Daithi who used to frequent the forum did it with a K100 back end and a respoked rear wheel by Hagon I think he said Wheel had to be spoked 20mm toward FD
Click to expand...
I know it's an old thread but I thought Id better reply.. it was 25mm offset, big chunk of the hub showing from the rear...

DonkeyBikeDotCom_23EBC6FE-4770-47D8-AABE-BEF49C588EF2-3536-0000037463352639.jpg


https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/drz-forks-and-hpn-tank-on-a-r100-gs-pd.753159/#post-17641739
 
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