Swing arm pivot cover removal.

Scotriders

Active member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
362
Reaction score
5
Location
Dundee, Scotland
In the process of removing swing arm to change front gaiter.

All going well until I get to the right pivot cover, it's obviously an after market cover and has been on the bike since I got it and never had a need to remove it until now.

As you can see from the pic there is a wee grub screw which I've undone and removed but how do I get the cover off?

Any ideas, experience with this appreciated.

Cheers
Alan
ceab937d426cb18f72d1e008cea12b0f.jpg
dc92e540038392f5b04f0fc78757547f.jpg


Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
They unscrew anticlockwise... normally...

Fixed into the central M6 bolt hole that you'll see when its finally off...

Roger.
 
If it's metal, maybe a little heart will help it along. I do mean a little - in case there's an O-ring in there

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
Well that was a bloody effort and a half.
Turns out it's just an alloy face plate held in with the grub screw which should just fall out to reveal the plate behind which screws into the pivot.
In reality if said plate has been in place for over 100,000 miles it's likely become very attached to its housing and will need some persuasion to detach itself.
However its off now and obviously won't be going back on.
7e11395816a008f4ffec514ae5c4c63f.jpg
ecd1567426cc62ad9ed152283deff045.jpg


Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
Can't see that clearly in the photo because it's a bit dark, but there should be three 6mm bolts around the central bolt... the central bolt holds nothing but the thread can be used with a slide hammer because then comes the fun getting the right hand pivot out.... I ended up drifting it out from the opposite side...

Roger.
 
Can't see that clearly in the photo because it's a bit dark, but there should be three 6mm bolts around the central bolt... the central bolt holds nothing but the thread can be used with a slide hammer because then comes the fun getting the right hand pivot out.... I ended up drifting it out from the opposite side...

Roger.
Yeah the three bolts are behind the plate you can see, got a slide hammer on it and came out quite easily.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
Not sure if I am missing something important here, but I can't see why you remove the swing arm to replace the gaiter.
Remove the rear wheel and swing the FD down. Then pull the drive shaft and you can just replace the gaiter.
 
As this post is about removing the cover, allow me to forward a suggestion, even if the OP has solved his problem.

According to the manual, the cover is merely pushed into position, and the friction is assured by means of an o-ring.
After a few years, this makes removal of the cover without setting permanent marks a challenge.

Personally I have had great success removing such covers by using a glue gun and glue a bolt to the cover, and pull the bolt.
The glue is easily removed afterwards and leaves no trace of the glue after removal.

If the cover is really stuck, rather than using a bolt, I use body-shop heads (the kind that is used to glue to a body panel for pulling out small dents by gluing them to the dented area).

They look like this, and sold in Autoparts stores.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=dent+removal+glue&_sacat=0
 
Not sure if I am missing something important here, but I can't see why you remove the swing arm to replace the gaiter.
Remove the rear wheel and swing the FD down. Then pull the drive shaft and you can just replace the gaiter.
The bikes done 100,000 miles, so my thinking was as I need to do the gaiter then I may as well get the swingarm off and replace the still original bearings while I'm at it.

And I was right as the left bearing was in a terrible looking state, I'm guessing any water getting past the gaiter sits there when the bikes on its side stand, which mines does a lot.
Hopefully everything will now be good for another 100,000.

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
As this post is about removing the cover, allow me to forward a suggestion, even if the OP has solved his problem.

According to the manual, the cover is merely pushed into position, and the friction is assured by means of an o-ring.
After a few years, this makes removal of the cover without setting permanent marks a challenge.

Personally I have had great success removing such covers by using a glue gun and glue a bolt to the cover, and pull the bolt.
The glue is easily removed afterwards and leaves no trace of the glue after removal.

If the cover is really stuck, rather than using a bolt, I use body-shop heads (the kind that is used to glue to a body panel for pulling out small dents by gluing them to the dented area).

They look like this, and sold in Autoparts stores.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=dent+removal+glue&_sacat=0
That definitely would have been a better option, but seeing as I was unaware that the GS plate was just a cover I'd no way of knowing or thinking about that approach.
I was thinking it was a solid cover which as suggested earlier just unscrewed hence I tried to persuade it in an anti clockwise direction with a large chapometer, destroying it in the process.

Knowing there was a 22yr old ring there explains why it had bonded itself too.

We live and learn


Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk
 


Back
Top Bottom