Removal of GSA tank - any special things to watch for?

HTB

HTB

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I need to remove the tank and all its fittings on my 2003 1150 GSA before sending it up to Andy at MDPR for some light dent removal.

Just before I get started is there anything to watch for, specifically on the GSA? I've been looking at the real oem microfiche and a BMW repair manual and can't see anything weird. From reading other posts, It looks like I have to be careful with the throttle cables under the tank when I come to re-install everything - I've already been caught out with the sleeve catching on the throttle body and making the bike run like a peeeg.
Will be checking the fuel lines and filter.

My filler neck needs the hole drilled in it to allow air out so the tank can be filled up fully. I know my filler cap drain hole is bunged up, so going to need to sort all of that out too.

Will take the opportunity with the tank off to run a new braided clutch line and new piston as my clutch fluid is dirty suggesting the seal is on the way out, and I've got OEM Valeo Fog lights and brackets to fit and remove the 'orrible aftermarket ones gracing the bike (one of which doesn't work anyway). Is there anything else I should be taking the opportunity to do whilst the tank is off - obvs, clean the air filter and give everything under the tank a decent clean-up?

The bike is hoping to take a trip into Europe this year, once the madness has stopped, and so I have an eye on making sure it is fit for the trip by doing some 'preventative maintenance' as well as just tidying things up whilst I'm not riding it this winter.

Thanks,

Harry
 
Remember to disconnect and fully extract the cross over fuel line before you try to lift the tank

And take the Steel bushes and rubber bushes from the rear of the tank and put the bolt and nut through them and set it back on top of the airbox lid! There are 2 steel bushes and 2 rubber bushes, trust me on this!! :rob

If you send the tank away with them in They will never make it back
 
+1 on what Dr Farkoff says . I would look at the connectors on the fuel lines and if they aren't Quick release upgrade to same also think about putting an additional quick release on the fuel cross over line on the left side which means you can disconnect the cross over on both sides and don't have to faff about pulling it out and then trying to fish back a roos which can be a pain.
Check oil breather hose coming from the airbox for any cracks or breaks .
Spray ACF50 liberally before refitting the tank
 
When reconnecting the quick release fuel lines, take care as the smallest nick in the o-rings will cause a fuel leak which you won't spot until the engine is running. Always worth having a spare around, just in case!
 
Don't laugh, undo the big black electrical plug FIRST, I have seen loads of broken ones.

The pump plate nuts, SOAK THEM in some lube before trying to undo, they strip easily.

Make sure your filler drain is clear, while it is off.
 
Thanks all. Tank off yesterday. Really should have fully drained it first! Good call on the tank electrical block. Everything covered in 17 years of dirt - all the connector blocks were black at first glance. Once cleaned it turns out they are orange, blue, white and grey...Have removed the bushes and washers as suggested. Time to pack it up and send the tank off for fettling....

H
 
dub 24 said:
I would look at the connectors on the fuel lines and if they aren't Quick release upgrade to same also think about putting an additional quick release on the fuel cross over line on the left side which means you can disconnect the cross over on both sides and don't have to faff about pulling it out and then trying to fish back a roos which can be a pain.
Click to expand...

I did this on the left side and it’s a great mod
 
A classic lesson in profanity

So the wife comes in and complains that the office (half the garage is partitioned off now she works from home) stinks of petrol.
I have a look and there’s no visible sign of a leak but hey ho, let’s take the tank off and leave it outside.
Pipes clamped, connectors separated, gentle move and bollocks, stuck!

The QR male half for the cross over pipe is wedged firmly between the frame and the alternator and is not for budging.

Then to my utter horror the female half starts to weep then pour then gush as the centre spring and plastic part shoots out across the garage and roll under my tool chest.

Petroleum spirit everywhere. Deep joy!

Much emergency faffing, deployment of joiners clamps etc and I stop the leak.

It I’ve had to cut off the male half and clamp that one off as well.


So......following advice on here...where’s best to get all new fuel lines and QR fittings?
 
I have always found it a major PITA fishing the cross over pipe back through to meet the rh QR. I assume with this mod the crossover just remains on top of the engine as you lift the tank away ? Is it easy enough to access it when removing and refitting tank ? do you just fit it a couple of inches from the LH tank outlet ?
 
Mungrel said:
So the wife comes in and complains that the office (half the garage is partitioned off now she works from home) stinks of petrol.
I have a look and there’s no visible sign of a leak but hey ho, let’s take the tank off and leave it outside.
Pipes clamped, connectors separated, gentle move and bollocks, stuck!

The QR male half for the cross over pipe is wedged firmly between the frame and the alternator and is not for budging.

Then to my utter horror the female half starts to weep then pour then gush as the centre spring and plastic part shoots out across the garage and roll under my tool chest.

Petroleum spirit everywhere. Deep joy!

Much emergency faffing, deployment of joiners clamps etc and I stop the leak.

It I’ve had to cut off the male half and clamp that one off as well.


So......following advice on here...where’s best to get all new fuel lines and QR fittings?
Click to expand...

Would definatly recommend the METAL qr fuel ones with proper fuel clamps. Also the lightest smear of red rubber grease on the " o" rings will help considerably
 
davnjud said:
I have always found it a major PITA fishing the cross over pipe back through to meet the rh QR. I assume with this mod the crossover just remains on top of the engine as you lift the tank away ? Is it easy enough to access it when removing and refitting tank ? do you just fit it a couple of inches from the LH tank outlet ?
Click to expand...

Yep spot on you will have a couple of inches of fuel pipe coming from the outlet spigot on the tank then the quick release going to the crossover.
Put the Male quick release on the cross over and the female on the bit coming from the tank ,that way when connecting and disconnecting the pipe from the tank is always held stationary and the crossover is either being pushed in or pulled out this way there is no stress on the little angle spigot on the tank .
Hope this makes sense.
Also as suggested a bit of grease of on the o rings
 
HTB said:
My filler neck needs the hole drilled in it to allow air out so the tank can be filled up fully.
Click to expand...

Have a think about that one. I did one of my non-GSA tanks and I never felt the little bit of extra capacity outweighed the occasions when the additional fuel would vent down the overflow onto the road (and yes, I did ride straight off after the fill up).

On my next 2 oilheads I chose not to.

I assume the GSA has a pretty impressive range already.
 
The filler neck mod on my GSA tank made a difference of 2 litres, but I’ve never lost that amount down the overflow... :thumb

The Other PaulG said:
Have a think about that one. I did one of my non-GSA tanks and I never felt the little bit of extra capacity outweighed the occasions when the additional fuel would vent down the overflow onto the road (and yes, I did ride straight off after the fill up).

On my next 2 oilheads I chose not to.

I assume the GSA has a pretty impressive range already.
Click to expand...
 
The Other PaulG said:
Have a think about that one. I did one of my non-GSA tanks and I never felt the little bit of extra capacity outweighed the occasions when the additional fuel would vent down the overflow onto the road (and yes, I did ride straight off after the fill up).

On my next 2 oilheads I chose not to.

I assume the GSA has a pretty impressive range already.
Click to expand...

I did the mod on an early 1200GSA and it worked well - i found it allowed me to fill tank slightly more quickly, avoid the pump filler cutting out which I always found was a right pain, as well as minimising 'blowback' and an unexpected petrol shower. So, its not entirely about maxing the tank capacity. Yes, pretty decent range on the GSAs already and given the g/f rides a 700GS I always have to stop for her to refill before i need to....

Mod is now done on the 1150, so when I get my tank back from Andy we'll see how it works! I thought about the overflow issue, so drilled the hole at the front of the filler, rather than the back (so fuel spills on the overrun, not acceleration!).
 
Here, it was not about front or back, the fuel is cold underground and gets lobbed into a black tank standing in 40C sun.... it pisses.....:blagblah
 
dub 24 said:
Yep spot on you will have a couple of inches of fuel pipe coming from the outlet spigot on the tank then the quick release going to the crossover.
Put the Male quick release on the cross over and the female on the bit coming from the tank ,that way when connecting and disconnecting the pipe from the tank is always held stationary and the crossover is either being pushed in or pulled out this way there is no stress on the little angle spigot on the tank .
Hope this makes sense.
Also as suggested a bit of grease of on the o rings
Click to expand...

Great advice thank you
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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