Aux light issue.

Scotriders · Jan 21, 2021

My aux lights ain't working on my 2010 GSA.
Checked the relay is good, as are the two fuses.

As the aux lights only come on with the engine running and the relay is under the tank, is there a way I can check if there is power getting to the relay / lights without the engine running?

Any help gratefully accepted.

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Kenny Rodkiss · Jan 21, 2021

The switch is a known weak spot where the rocker doesn't actually activate the microswitch.
There are various fixes on the forum.

gazza12adv · Jan 22, 2021

Kenny Rodkiss said:
The switch is a known weak spot where the rocker doesn't actually activate the microswitch.
There are various fixes on the forum.

As above, try pressing the switch really hard, if you see the little light come on then it may need dismantling to pack it out , there are threads covering this issue.

Scotriders · Jan 22, 2021

gazza12adv said:
As above, try pressing the switch really hard, if you see the little light come on then it may need dismantling to pack it out , there are threads covering this issue.

Tried pressing the switch really hard but not getting anything. No light on the switch or from the aux lights.

I've got a GS911 but can't see if there is a function on there which has anything to do with the aux lights.

The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual unfortunately isn't that helpful as it shows a ring of wires running around between relay, switch fuses and zfe so I'm non the wiser what should be showing a voltage and when.

Also what doesn't help is the diagram has the colours of pin 2 and 5 on the relay the wrong way round. The purple is actually pin 5 (86) and the red/green is the switched power lead connected to pin 2 (87).

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Mistacat · Jan 22, 2021

I came across the Haynes wiring error before Pins 2&5.
The feed to the switch is from pin 46 on the ZFE then from the other side of the switch (purple wire) to pin 5 on the relay (coil).
Also check the ground wires (Brown) try dropping a direct ground from the battery.

gazza12adv · Jan 22, 2021

Stupid question time, you have checked the bulbs are working. Though unusual for them both to pack up at the same time.

Scotriders · Jan 22, 2021

gazza12adv said:
Stupid question time, you have checked the bulbs are working. Though unusual for them both to pack up at the same time.

It's Led's which I've not checked but there's no light on the switch either so guessing the problem is before the lights themselves.

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Andy B · Jan 22, 2021

They will pack up together if you get water/damp in them. A well known problem. It shouldn't be hard to rig up a battery and a couple of bits of wire to check them. Popping the connections off them isn't too hard. Have a look here: https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/489815-Disconnecting-OE-spotlights

Scotriders · Jan 23, 2021

Mistacat said:
I came across the Haynes wiring error before Pins 2&5.
The feed to the switch is from pin 46 on the ZFE then from the other side of the switch (purple wire) to pin 5 on the relay (coil).
Also check the ground wires (Brown) try dropping a direct ground from the battery.

So before I take the tank of again.

Is this the route of power to the lights?

When the bike starts up the zfe sends a feed to the switch from pin 46 and if the switch is 'off' the feed goes to ground.

However if the switch is 'on' the feed goes down the purple wire to pin 5 on the relay, which opens the switch 8n the relay between pins 1 and 2 which sends power through the fuses to the lights. Yes?

Should I trace the problem from the lights back to zfe or the other way round?

I know the lights are good as I've put a battery over.

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Mistacat · Jan 24, 2021

Yes your description is right with only one addition, When the switch is off the Haynes shows the ZFE feed from pin 46 to go through a LED and resistor to ground, ( not straight to ground) as if the switch would be illuminated when the bike is running and the switch is off. ( mine is not illuminated in the off position).
The Haynes shows 2 led`s & resistors in the switch, I have not taken one apart so perhaps someone can confirm this.
I would treat the circuit as two parts.
1.Primary, bike running - pin 46 on the ZFE to the switch, from the switch to the relay coil and the other side of the coil to ground. ( basically is the relay switching). If the relay is not switching then work back to the switch and ZFE output.
2.Secondary - power is from the battery +ve to pin 1 on the relay when the relay is switched power from pin 2 is then split into two feeds through the 2 fuses to the aux lights.
I assume that you have tested the relay, on the 2010 bike this can be swapped with the relay next to it ( this is the starter relay) to test it.
Woops Just re - read your first post and see that you have tested the relay.

Scotriders · Jan 24, 2021

So by process of testing and elimination it is definitely the switch that is at fault.

So £100+ for new bmw switch or just wire up a rocker switch to the bars?

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Mistacat · Jan 24, 2021

£100 for a BMW switch !!!!!!
The switch does not need to be on the bars.
I made a dash surround to fit around the clocks, I think they are available off the shelf. and use RS components miniature 5A toggle or push button switches as in RS part number 448-0753 There are waterproof boots to fit these 223-818. There is a large selection of these switches they are very small and very reliable.
You can also mount a small led in the panel to show the lights are on.
The dash panel helps stop the theft of the clocks. I also mounted a little led voltmeter in mine and terminated fibre optics there, running from the camera control units mounted under the seat so that I can see what mode the front and rear cameras are in. All a bit OTT but I like to tinker.
I have used these switches on many bikes and trikes over the years without a problem.

Aux light issue.

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