Clutch problem R80GS Basic

Progress report:

First of all, what a doddle these bikes are to work one. Old school and I like it that way.

Pulled the clutch actuation bits and found the needle bearing on the lever completely seized and also some light witness marks on the plastic piston suggesting it may have expanded when hot and jammed in the housing. If freed up the needle roller and re-greased it with LM grease. It’ll do for now until a replacement arrives. I mic’ed up the plastic piston and it was 28.96mm dia, so I skimmed it in the lathe and brought it down to 28.86mm. Lubed it lightly with moly grease and refitted it. Everything feels nice and smooth so I’ll give it a try once it stops raining.
 

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Mad hatter

Glad to hear you seem to have the problem fixed.
I too love the simplicity of these old airheads.

Ride safe
Bubb
 
Good news, clutch now working perfectly�� and it’s a lovely sweet bike to ride. Bad news is that the carbs are not settling down to an idle position after the throttle is closed. The problem is at the carb because even when the cable has gone slack the throttle is staying open. Not surprising since the bike has not run since 2001!
 
Revs not dropping could be the throttle cables not sitting properly in the top of the carbs... or a minor air leak between carb and head (can check by spraying easy-start on the rubbers and seeing if the revs rise).

Good luck
 
Good news, clutch now working perfectly�� and it’s a lovely sweet bike to ride. Bad news is that the carbs are not settling down to an idle position after the throttle is closed. The problem is at the carb because even when the cable has gone slack the throttle is staying open. Not surprising since the bike has not run since 2001!

Does it idle when cold ???

If it does? The carb set up has been done when it is not at working temperature !

Airheads do NOT idle when cold they are stumbly and crap and need half choke until you get a mile under your belt in our weather

When the bike is up to operating temperature (20 mins riding NOT idling)

If its over 1200 to 1500 rpm back the two throttle stop screws in 1/4 turns each until you see the alternator light just start to flicker

Ideally you want a balanced even tickover and when you open the throttle very lightly that it doesn;t stumble

If you haven;t an ear for that Get a set of gauges or an old hand to set it up

N'B' Must be done at operating temp Doing it in the garage after a 10 minute idle won;t cut the mustard!
 
Does it idle when cold ???

If it does? The carb set up has been done when it is not at working temperature !

Airheads do NOT idle when cold they are stumbly and crap and need half choke until you get a mile under your belt in our weather

When the bike is up to operating temperature (20 mins riding NOT idling)

If its over 1200 to 1500 rpm back the two throttle stop screws in 1/4 turns each until you see the alternator light just start to flicker

Ideally you want a balanced even tickover and when you open the throttle very lightly that it doesn;t stumble

If you haven;t an ear for that Get a set of gauges or an old hand to set it up

N'B' Must be done at operating temp Doing it in the garage after a 10 minute idle won;t cut the mustard!


Thanks DrFarkoff, that sort of advice is invaluable! I’ve sorted the throttles not returning to their stops by lubing the linkage, but I’ve also now identified that the enricheners are not returning to their stops when the choke is off. See separate post
 


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