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X Spoked Wheels and twin discs on a Monolever Bitsa.
- Thread starter DrAlf
- Start date
You may be able to "borrow off here" a rear subframe and get one copied.
I posted 1 that I had to Sth Carolina cos chappy couldnt get one. That was yonks ago too
Shurv had one I think
I posted 1 that I had to Sth Carolina cos chappy couldnt get one. That was yonks ago too
Shurv had one I think
Beemerboff
Registered user
The trouble with trying to offset the cross spoke rims, or even trueing them , is obvious if you look at the picture in the recent post - there is no provision in either the rim or the hub to allow the spoke to pivot, so you cannot either true them or pull them over without redrilling both the rim and the hub.
And if you do it leaves a messy elliptical hole unless you use oversized spokes.
The holes will be corroded anyway as you will find out when you finally manage to bash the spokes out, and by the time you have cleaned off all the corrosion you might have belled the holes out enough to let you rebuild them to the standard offset.
I had a cutter made to do the job a bit neater, just a modified three diameter drill used for drilling the holes when screw fixing hardwood decking and it didnt look too bad.
Radco's book- THe Vintagenfs workshop- was free on line last time I looked and has a good section on wheel building including details if a jig which makes the job a lot easier.
Then when you have the rim and hub in the jig you can have a look and see how far you are from having clearance for the offset, there is a chainsaw file around the right size if you are a dedicated bodger!
Had to do it when I bought a expensive alloy rim for a BSA single sided brake hub which were drilled wrong, worked out OK in the end!
And if you do it leaves a messy elliptical hole unless you use oversized spokes.
The holes will be corroded anyway as you will find out when you finally manage to bash the spokes out, and by the time you have cleaned off all the corrosion you might have belled the holes out enough to let you rebuild them to the standard offset.
I had a cutter made to do the job a bit neater, just a modified three diameter drill used for drilling the holes when screw fixing hardwood decking and it didnt look too bad.
Radco's book- THe Vintagenfs workshop- was free on line last time I looked and has a good section on wheel building including details if a jig which makes the job a lot easier.
Then when you have the rim and hub in the jig you can have a look and see how far you are from having clearance for the offset, there is a chainsaw file around the right size if you are a dedicated bodger!
Had to do it when I bought a expensive alloy rim for a BSA single sided brake hub which were drilled wrong, worked out OK in the end!
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/404320-r80r-r80gs-subframe-differences
BaMW may have 1 or a copied newish un HTHY
BaMW may have 1 or a copied newish un HTHY
Thanks Boff - but I don't quite follow the above. Could you explain again please? My assumption has always been that a custom set of spokes would be required to offset the wheel. I've seen many forum posts and websites stating that building an offset wheel is possible. Am I missing something? Thanks
Thanks Mick - I'll just hang out for a good used single seat and rack. One will turn up one day!
Alf, try Doug Richardson wheelbuilding. He laced an 18” conventional rim to my 4 bolt paralever rear hub and did a cracking job on it
I spoke to him earlier today MH. What a great guy he is - he's built at least 15 offset x spoked wheels for the very reason that I'm doing it. Really knows his stuff. Plan coming along nicely
Thanks for the heads up.Found this thread on a Google search.
I’ve got an R75/5 running monolever front and rear suspension.
The front forks are reversed with the Brembo calipers behind the forks. The front wheel is from an R100R which was plug and play.
The rear wheel is a machined R100R hub laced to an R100R 18” front rim. Doug Richardson laced the wheel for me with an offset.
Interested about earlier comments as I have recently acquired an R1200c spoked front wheel so I can try and run bigger brake discs
Stirlingmoz
I’ve got an R75/5 running monolever front and rear suspension.
The front forks are reversed with the Brembo calipers behind the forks. The front wheel is from an R100R which was plug and play.
The rear wheel is a machined R100R hub laced to an R100R 18” front rim. Doug Richardson laced the wheel for me with an offset.
Interested about earlier comments as I have recently acquired an R1200c spoked front wheel so I can try and run bigger brake discs
Stirlingmoz
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Thanks Stirling. That's almost exactly what I'm doing - although now using R100R forks and wheel rather than monolever front end.
The R1200C wheel was not plug and play for the monolever forks - it may be for the R100R forks TBC. Regardless I want to run a 19" front and a 17" wheel so both will need to be rebuilt anyway - Doug Richardson is excellent and certainly the man for the job.
Hi Doc,
I have been measuring up the R1200C front wheel. I think the side to side spacings of the disc carrier mounts is the same as the R100R and monolever Y spoke but will confirm when I can do this more accurately. My fingers are firmly crossed.
The big difference is the front axle diameter. I think all monos and k bikes are 25mm where the 1200c is 20mm.
I don’t think this is an insurmountable problem as both bearing types have a bearing OD of 47mm. I’m hoping a bearing swap will at least get the wheel in the forks. Then it’s a question of measuring up spacers.
If I recall Doug Richardson won’t work on BMW cross spoke wheels if the rim is made by Behr. He will only work on Akront rims. The 1200c has a Behr rim so if want it rebuilding, I’m going to have to find an 18” Akront rim.
Incidentally I have a GS paralever subframe I used only as a template to mock up a frame mod. Is this what you’re after for your project ?
Stirlingmoz
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Thanks Mr Moz - some good detail there.
I think Doug will now work on any BMW rims - I spoke to him yesterday and he seemed fine with the plan and didn't ask about rim make. I certainly hope so because I haven't got plan B. 19" + 17" rebuild + offset + paint in black with stainless spokes:cool
I'll also have a look at the R1200C wheel again over Christmas. May well fit the R100R forks but presume the callipers will need spacers made up if the discs are bigger. TBH I'll probably go down the route of a complete front end swap for ease - had enough of messing around and just want to ride the thing now.
I don't need a subframe - but thanks if you were going to offer. I'm just after a single R80G/S Paris Dakar seat and rack - which are hard to find and for some reason very expensive new. They certainly didn't used to be - should have bought one ages ago.
I will get this thing finished
Good luck with it. It’ll be worth it in the end. Stirlingmoz
R100R front end sorted - thanks Mikey Great forum this. Christmas spannering session awaits
Wheels to be built early 2023.
Treated myself to a new "cheap" clone single seat and rack which I'll use first then get recovered at some point in the future.
Just a proper shock (Ohlins / Nitron) to go and I'll be on the road for spring - maybe
Great forum this. Christmas spannering session awaits Wheels to be built early 2023.Treated myself to a new "cheap" clone single seat and rack which I'll use first then get recovered at some point in the future.
Just a proper shock (Ohlins / Nitron) to go and I'll be on the road for spring - maybe
Excellent link that. They seem to have done quite a few frankenbike 4 stud mono x spoke builds. I've dropped them a line for info.
Thanks old friend
Attachments
Did some work on my R1200 front wheel today to see if I could make it work with a Monolever front axle / suspension.
First step is to knock out the R1200 bearings and centre spacer
Stirlingmoz
First step is to knock out the R1200 bearings and centre spacer
Stirlingmoz
The difference between R1200 and monolever wheel bearings is clear but crucially the OD is the same.
Stirlingmoz
Stirlingmoz
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