Yes another noise question.

No, not normal. They can be smooth sounding bikes. Some people’s version of ignoring noise is ok for them but know that it can be better.
 
Not heard of that one - they did have a habit of dropping the exhaust valve on number 3.

I used to work with a guy called Dave Wootten in Tilehurst in the mid '70's and one of our specialities was tuning the VW motors. Bored and stroked from 1600 up to 2.2 ltr, a range of cam options, 2 x twin choke webers on custom intakes with a balancer tube, branch manifold and megaphone exhaust. His own camper which he used for towing racing carts would top out the front suspension if you dumped the clutch. Looked almost standard, a real "Q" car.

They could do exhaust valves but we replaced a lot of push rods. UNless my memory is playing tricks :augie
 
That's a balls, my usual mechanic wasn't bothered by it, maybe I need a second opinion. Not sure I'm mechanically competent enough to replace the pushrods. I replaced the gearbox a few months ago which is supposed to be straightforward and I thought it was a massive pain in the ass.

I'll dig out my Clymer manual and see what's involved.

If anyone knows of a good video instructional send it my way.

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Had a look and seems doable, I don't have a TDC locking key though, is this really needed or are there work around if it is?

Cheers

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I used to work with a guy called Dave Wootten in Tilehurst in the mid '70's and one of our specialities was tuning the VW motors. Bored and stroked from 1600 up to 2.2 ltr, a range of cam options, 2 x twin choke webers on custom intakes with a balancer tube, branch manifold and megaphone exhaust. His own camper which he used for towing racing carts would top out the front suspension if you dumped the clutch. Looked almost standard, a real "Q" car.

They could do exhaust valves but we replaced a lot of push rods. UNless my memory is playing tricks :augie

I worked at Autocavan from '77 to '95, doing very similar stuff to what you mention. The boss was also a business partner to John Button, who fleeced him and subsequently charged with 19 (?) counts of fraud - JB was selling cars from the forecourt of Autoconti that didn't always go through the books...

Apart from larger valves we also used to have standard sized one piece valves made by G&S in Godalming to stop the dropping - 21-4N from memory.
 
I worked at Autocavan from '77 to '95, doing very similar stuff to what you mention. The boss was also a business partner to John Button, who fleeced him and subsequently charged with 19 (?) counts of fraud - JB was selling cars from the forecourt of Autoconti that didn't always go through the books...

Apart from larger valves we also used to have standard sized one piece valves made by G&S in Godalming to stop the dropping - 21-4N from memory.

I'm sure we picked upalot of tuning parts from Autocavan, what a small world. \\End hijack
 
Just thinking out loud here but it sounds like tappet noise to me, but in the original post you say you've done the valve clearance and end float.

Thought #1. Have the valves been set correctly in the first place with a stone cold engine?
Though #2. If the pushrod is bent, can the valves actually be set correctly?
 
Does the noise alter or stop if the clutch is pulled in ?
 
I didn't do the valves last time,my mechanic did.

I'll do it myself this time. If the pushrod ends have come loose my understanding is the rocker end play can't be set properly.

Hi Steptoe, no the sound stays clutch in and out.

Cheers


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Just thinking out loud here but it sounds like tappet noise to me, but in the original post you say you've done the valve clearance and end float.

Thought #1. Have the valves been set correctly in the first place with a stone cold engine?
Though #2. If the pushrod is bent, can the valves actually be set correctly?
So what impacts the tappet noise more, the valve clearance or rocker end play? Or something else completely?



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If the pushrod ends have come loose my understanding is the rocker end play can't be set properly.

Not so. Loose ends on the pushrods have no affect in adjusting valves or end play.
 
Not so. Loose ends on the pushrods have no affect in adjusting valves or end play.
Thanks for clarifying.
Can I get the valve gear holder out without removing the head to check the push rods? I have removed the nuts and bolts as far as I can see that are holding it in place but its not moving.
0a9a1d61c5a6998a363b7722dbc8a06a.jpg


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Not so. Loose ends on the pushrods have no affect in adjusting valves or end play.
Better photo. It doesn't move, don't want to force anything.can you see anything I've missed.
Cheers

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5e0cbf034dc45a4f415a2c785aaa99c1.jpg
 
And the penny drops.... the bloody cam chain.


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And the penny drops.... the bloody cam chain.


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Stop ! What are you doing, no need to touch the cam chain ... just pull down on the tubes holding the rocker arm in place, then the rocker arm falls out and pushrods can be removed .,
 
Stop ! What are you doing, no need to touch the cam chain ... just pull down on the tubes holding the rocker arm in place, then the rocker arm falls out and pushrods can be removed .,
Haha yes I didn't mean I was going to touch the camchain. Just that it was what was stopping me.

Yes figured out that the tube was holding the arm in place shortly after I posted. Drama averted.

The pushrod looked like this and the end moves up and down in the cylinder.
Guess highly likely that was the problem.
732d4aed2e612a44dcaf969649e3cd69.jpg


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Haha yes I didn't mean I was going to touch the camchain. Just that it was what was stopping me.

Yes figured out that the tube was holding the arm in place shortly after I posted. Drama averted.

The pushrod looked like this and the end moves up and down in the cylinder.
Guess highly likely that was the problem.
732d4aed2e612a44dcaf969649e3cd69.jpg


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Yeah that looks really wrong, on mine that metal tip is tight against the aluminium shaft, and the loose one moved a tiny amount. They must have been rattling around in there like nobody's business.

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