1150r 2002 shock advice

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adventuredon

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Hi, my bike only has 42k on it however
with rear damping at 4/5 towards hard and my preload tightened up to 1 click before fully tight I am able to sit on the bike hard and the side stand just about touches the ground. Rebounds ok, but seems the dag is quite a lot. Any less settings and it feels distinctly wallowy / saggy / squirmy (all technical terms lol) coming out of round about turns when on the gas. No luggage on. No leaks but my gut says it's time.

So am I right? If so, refurb or renew?
If renew, original or used from m works
If new, does it have to be the dogs danglies expensive nitron/maxton/etc et al ? or ? advice please
 
Don,
If you can have the bike off the road for a few days, then get in touch with Denz0 and get yours rebuilt.
You could get a good 2nd hand unit from MWorks, but unless it has been rebuilt it will go eventually
 
I had the shock on my R 850 rebuilt and a s/s hose fitted by Denz0 ��
He is on the site and your area.
Great service.
Buy used and it’s probably as old as yours.
 
cheers, seems the best option then. Any idea of cost to rebuild? Worth doing front at same time, so also a rebuild?
 
I have some Hyperpro shocks on their way back to me from Denz0. These are almost £1100 new and have been on my GS for about 15yrs so were sorely in need of tidying up even though they still worked ok.

New springs - £150 for both
Service/refurb - £110 per shock

Mine also needed new spherical bearings so a bit more on top but I’m really pleased with the cost and service.
 
great, been in contact ith Denzo and all set for the upgrade come July. I'll report back on his usual goo service as mentioned already
 
You’re going to be a happy bunny…

I got mine back earlier and unboxed them - I’m really pleased. The old manky springs are alongside the nice shiny new ones :cool:

great, been in contact ith Denzo and all set for the upgrade come July. I'll report back on his usual goo service as mentioned already
 

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Another simple question. I am definitely getting the rear rebuilt with an uprated spring. My question is regarding the front one. Yes it looks tired but not weeping or anything. This cannot be rebuilt and will be a straight new shock. How much does this shock make a difference? Is it really going to be all that different on a 20 year old bike? I know the rear will make a massive difference but just thinking that the front is less involved on the telelever system. So do I change rear only and wait till front leaks or is it better, performance wise, in doing it in 1 hit?
 
Speak to Denz0… I suspect your non-rebuildable shock can be rebuilt by those who know how :thumb2

Another simple question. I am definitely getting the rear rebuilt with an uprated spring. My question is regarding the front one. Yes it looks tired but not weeping or anything. This cannot be rebuilt and will be a straight new shock. How much does this shock make a difference? Is it really going to be all that different on a 20 year old bike? I know the rear will make a massive difference but just thinking that the front is less involved on the telelever system. So do I change rear only and wait till front leaks or is it better, performance wise, in doing it in 1 hit?
 
Speak to Denz0… I suspect your non-rebuildable shock can be rebuilt by those who know how :thumb2

Ta, I have spoken to him. He has said that its not rebuildable quote " I think the front is not rebuildable twin-tube shock not like TTX Ohlins.
The only option here is an aftermarket replacement. YSS offer good value for money".
 
Then I’d budget to replace it, otherwise you’re only getting half the value of the ‘new’ rear..
 
Front cannot be rebuilt but if it is nor leaking ABE can modify it so the fluid can be changed and the unit repressurised
 
Another simple question. I am definitely getting the rear rebuilt with an uprated spring. My question is regarding the front one. Yes it looks tired but not weeping or anything. This cannot be rebuilt and will be a straight new shock. How much does this shock make a difference? Is it really going to be all that different on a 20 year old bike? I know the rear will make a massive difference but just thinking that the front is less involved on the telelever system. So do I change rear only and wait till front leaks or is it better, performance wise, in doing it in 1 hit?

The front is involved as that's your main/only means of suspension..the fork legs are there only to connect the handlebars to the front wheel so to speak
 
Ok looks like they will both be done then. Ta. All replies make sense


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Ok, so I got the rear re valved with an uprated spring by Denzo. Went to France and it was definitely a noticeable improvement. Due to custom delays and time I collected the shock from him rather than have him post it. Price was reduced accordingly. Easy as. The ride to and from France was a vast improvement in comfort and feel. Good investment I felt.

The front was held up at customs as someone from YSS had put £2200 on the value instead of £220 so it wasn't ready before my trip. Lukas kindly offered to fit it for me on my return when he had the front shock. Exceptional service. He then went on to set up my shocks with suspension and sag measurements etc.

He also got a few parcels from other mechanics requiring servicing of ESA shocks while I was there. He was kind enough to show me how these shocks had already been refurbished by firms like ...racing etc and where they had just cut the esa electric plugs then soldered them on again, as well as where the wrong size washer had been fitted so it inevitably failed once the over sized washers became bent/worn.

He has a full workshop set up with loads of custom tools and I can highly recommend him as knowledgeable, one who takes pride in his work, values good workmanship and is a very nice fellow to boot, willing to share the ins and outs of what to expect from shock absorption. A talented mechanic and bike rider to boot! Thank you Lukas. Great result on my shocks at a very reasonable and value for money price point.
 
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