Tickover speed

Just ordered an oil pressure test gauge kit to check it out properly - better safe than sorry. I am still going to drain the tank and clean the fuel tap filter though because I think there is some thing going on with fuel supply to the carbs. The carbs are definitely good though because they are completely refurbished items. I’ll let you know how it goes.

As an aside, I love working on these bikes, they are so simple but full of character
 
Do you guys have a recommendation for a permanent fix oil pressure gauge?

unless you can find a T that has a spigot on the short side and being truthful with you

You REALLY don't want a gauge permanently fixed Your eye will be drawn to it and it will drag you in

Red Light No Red Light Works very well :thumb

Trust me on this one!! ;)
 
I think I’d carry out a few more checks on the oil pressure.
Try removing the plug caps,engine cold.
Crank the engine till the oil light goes out,stop cranking.
How long does the oil pressure light stay out.?
A really good engine will hold pressure for up to 20 secs.
If the oil light comes on straight away you’ve potentially got problems.

With trepidation, I cold-cranked an engine I've been working on (R90/6) for a while (ok 5 years) - I did this last night. I counted the seconds after stopping the starter motor (I had plugs out, resting, so I could see the spark). Couldn't believe it - it flickered and then came on strong at 19-20 seconds. So it can be done. I am now a confident bunny thanks to Mikeboy's wisdom!

Here's a gauge/T-piece I prepared earlier:
 

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unless you can find a T that has a spigot on the short side and being truthful with you

You REALLY don't want a gauge permanently fixed Your eye will be drawn to it and it will drag you in

Red Light No Red Light Works very well :thumb

Trust me on this one!! ;)

Noted, thank you Dr. I’ll use the 20 second test as above.
 
Just ordered an oil pressure test gauge kit to check it out properly - better safe than sorry. I am still going to drain the tank and clean the fuel tap filter though because I think there is some thing going on with fuel supply to the carbs. The carbs are definitely good though because they are completely refurbished items. I’ll let you know how it goes.

As an aside, I love working on these bikes, they are so simple but full of character

Your theory about carbs not getting enough fuel can be very easily tested by removing the float bowls with the petrol taps turned on..... :rolleyes:..... it’s far cheaper buying a new oil pressure switch than an oil pressure testing kit. The switches aren’t very good and frequently fail/flicker.
 
Well, I drained the tank and checked out the fuel tap and gauze filter, all ok, no blockage. Very odd. Next step oil pressure test when the gauge arrives next week
 
Well, I drained the tank and checked out the fuel tap and gauze filter, all ok, no blockage. Very odd. Next step oil pressure test when the gauge arrives next week
The last bike I worked on had a stutter at higher speeds, especially under load as in hill climbing. The previous owner had fitted new floats but hadn’t set the fuel level in the bowls. Under hard load the bowls emptied too much causing fuel starvation. I had checked fuel flow from the taps and eliminated potential vacuum in the tank. Needle stop on the floats tweaked and now taken up to 90 and held there with no stutter.
 
Thanks for that advice Paul, I’ll take a look at the float levels. It might explain it.
 
Well……….the oil pressure test gauge arrived this morning. Cold idle at 1000rpm gave me 60PSI, but when the engine got up to proper running temperature the idle oil pressure came down to 7 PSI. This seems low to me so it looks like there is either some wear in the bearings or the pump.

With the revs up at around 4000 the gauge was showing about 75-80 PSI which is probably about right, but the idle pressure make me uncomfortable.

Seems I’m going to be parking this bike for while and riding the 1150.

Thanks for the advice to check it properly gents and not ignore it.
 
First thing I’d take a look at ,
Change the oil and filter,
Ensure the shim,o ring,etc is fitted correctly,and measure the filter canister depth.
While the oil is drained,remove the front timing case and inspect the oil pressure relief valve.
It might have a Broken or weak spring(£3).
Or some debris causing it to stick open.
The oil pumps on these engines are a bit overkill,at normal operating revs the relief is constantly opening.
Your engine seems to be loosing pressure quite quickly,and has low pressure at idle,
Either of the above could cause this.

Of course,your engine could be fucked…..:hide:hide:hide
07786340692:D:augie:augie
 
Mikeyboy, thanks for the advice. I’m debating whether to start pulling bits off to check the things you’ve suggested, or bite the bullet and start the full refurb early, in which case I’d like to bring the motor, gearbox and bevel drive down to you for a fully monty rebuild (I like the quality of the work you’ve been posting on here). I’ll have a think…..
 
Key to a simple oil pressure gauge installation is the adapter which takes you from the threaded oil pressure switch hole to the standard sender thread, 1/8 NPT? or whatever.
You need one with a slight 30 ? degree bend so the sender misses the frame tube.
Hard to find!
Then you need a sender with two outputs, one for the warning light and one for the oil gauge.
15 psi for the oil light is easiest to find.
VDO does one, and the correct gauge, but take care, just about every VDO gauge and sender on Ebay is counterfeit!
Some of the German vendors , Hornig ? have the OEM style gauge holder with either central or off set fixings to suit your choice of gauge but the price is now, er, formidable.
VDO are offset.
 
It could end up looking like this…if your not careful and pockets are deep.

dbed7c4f88a73fdde3c365692fee63dd.jpg



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