What's going on here then?
- Thread starter Gelandestrasse
- Start date
Handlebars and wiring
Before putting the engine in I decided to get the handlebars on. This required putting the first bit of wiring back in - the feed to the front indicators. It was slightly fiddly but, with the top yoke off, I could slide the headlight 'ears' down the top of the fork legs while they were 'knitted together' with the indicator wiring. I bought new grommets to make it look nice!
Before putting the engine in I decided to get the handlebars on. This required putting the first bit of wiring back in - the feed to the front indicators. It was slightly fiddly but, with the top yoke off, I could slide the headlight 'ears' down the top of the fork legs while they were 'knitted together' with the indicator wiring. I bought new grommets to make it look nice!
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Engine Installation
It was time. I prepped the area and got a mate round. We sized up the engine on the bench then lifted it round. It had a deep sump on now; when it came out it was a standard sump. We passed it into the gap then I held the weight while my mate went round the other side. We tilted the engine and moved it in. I had put frame protection round all the tubes. We managed to get the rear engine mounting stud in first, while the front part of the sump rested on the wood on the hoist/lift. The engine touched down on the stand during fitment (the only bit I hadn't protected!), it also rubbed on the left chrome brake-line bracket (the one by the steering damper). The oil filter bolts were very close indeed, prompting the insertion of a wooden hammer stock to ease the engine down without catching them.
Luckily it all went in without damaging the paint!
It was time. I prepped the area and got a mate round. We sized up the engine on the bench then lifted it round. It had a deep sump on now; when it came out it was a standard sump. We passed it into the gap then I held the weight while my mate went round the other side. We tilted the engine and moved it in. I had put frame protection round all the tubes. We managed to get the rear engine mounting stud in first, while the front part of the sump rested on the wood on the hoist/lift. The engine touched down on the stand during fitment (the only bit I hadn't protected!), it also rubbed on the left chrome brake-line bracket (the one by the steering damper). The oil filter bolts were very close indeed, prompting the insertion of a wooden hammer stock to ease the engine down without catching them.
Luckily it all went in without damaging the paint!
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The big first start date 7 Nov 21
Well, it's been a couple of months since last posted. Reasonable progress made in which I installed the new wiring harness (Motorworks) and ignition system (Dynatek). After refitting the gearbox, air filters, carbs and adjusting the clutch I rolled her off the workbench and took her outside. I fitted the tank off my track bike and connected up the fuel lines. I had already spun the starter with the top plugs out to circulate the oil. Plugs back in and went for the starter button.
I'm happy (no, more than that) to report that the engine fired first stab and settled to a good, fast, even idle. I was so stunned I forgot to take the choke off, and she slowed and stalled. I hit the starter again and off she went, so off came the choke and I held her on idle briefly before 'letting go' and observing her warm up for the first time. The tickover was set fast and she sounded happy, smooth and even. I checked the timing on the strobe and she's spot on for what I had set statically and for full advance. She's also charging well (thanks to new rotor and uprated stator). To say I was chuffed would be an understatement!
She's now back on the workbench awaiting front brakes (under-tank M/C) and bodywork and other small things (indicators, cables etc) - see picture. This will probably take me to the Spring.
Twin-spark timing. I did lots of research and I came across an article about it done by Tom Cutter of Rubberchicken Racing in USA. He seemed to know his stuff. There were also plenty of threads here and there on ADVrider, BMW MOA etc. Despite updating his article from 1981 in 2003, Tom Cutter still has a disclaimer that some of the information is erroneous (but doesn't say which). Anyway, in it he recommends setting twin-spark static timing to 3 degrees After TDC (ATDC) - yes, after - for 1000cc engines. So I initially set the timing up for that. It didn't seem right so the other day I contacted Jim Cray to double-check. I was so glad I did, as Jim said if I had set it to ATDC and tried to start it I'd have probably ruined the engine! As he re-built it for me, I set the timing to standard, minus about 1 or 2 degrees. The advance needed to go to the top of the 'Z' marker bracket (I have a light flywheel) when revving up. It goes to show that you can't believe all the internet material that is available - best talk to the experts!
Well, it's been a couple of months since last posted. Reasonable progress made in which I installed the new wiring harness (Motorworks) and ignition system (Dynatek). After refitting the gearbox, air filters, carbs and adjusting the clutch I rolled her off the workbench and took her outside. I fitted the tank off my track bike and connected up the fuel lines. I had already spun the starter with the top plugs out to circulate the oil. Plugs back in and went for the starter button.
I'm happy (no, more than that) to report that the engine fired first stab and settled to a good, fast, even idle. I was so stunned I forgot to take the choke off, and she slowed and stalled. I hit the starter again and off she went, so off came the choke and I held her on idle briefly before 'letting go' and observing her warm up for the first time. The tickover was set fast and she sounded happy, smooth and even. I checked the timing on the strobe and she's spot on for what I had set statically and for full advance. She's also charging well (thanks to new rotor and uprated stator). To say I was chuffed would be an understatement!
She's now back on the workbench awaiting front brakes (under-tank M/C) and bodywork and other small things (indicators, cables etc) - see picture. This will probably take me to the Spring.
Twin-spark timing. I did lots of research and I came across an article about it done by Tom Cutter of Rubberchicken Racing in USA. He seemed to know his stuff. There were also plenty of threads here and there on ADVrider, BMW MOA etc. Despite updating his article from 1981 in 2003, Tom Cutter still has a disclaimer that some of the information is erroneous (but doesn't say which). Anyway, in it he recommends setting twin-spark static timing to 3 degrees After TDC (ATDC) - yes, after - for 1000cc engines. So I initially set the timing up for that. It didn't seem right so the other day I contacted Jim Cray to double-check. I was so glad I did, as Jim said if I had set it to ATDC and tried to start it I'd have probably ruined the engine! As he re-built it for me, I set the timing to standard, minus about 1 or 2 degrees. The advance needed to go to the top of the 'Z' marker bracket (I have a light flywheel) when revving up. It goes to show that you can't believe all the internet material that is available - best talk to the experts!
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Enjoying this - thanks for posting.
Glad you didn’t wreck your engine.
Glad you didn’t wreck your engine.
Great thread and top quality pictures
First sortie 21 Nov 21
I checked with the 'paint guy' when my bodywork might be ready. He's in Derby, I'm near Salisbury. But my son is at Nottingham Uni and has no transport up there (his CRF250 is a hangar queen at home). So when I go up to fetch him for Christmas, I'll be picking up the finished bodywork.
But the incremental additions to the chassis continued and I made the decision to ride the bike before then, to shake everything down before the new clothes are fitted. So I installed the mudguards I got when I bought a secondhand R100RS fairing - in a fetching non-standard metallic blue. A spare /6 seat fitted on easily. I did the front brakes* and put the numberplate on. Strangely I had no electrical gremlins (except the horn which was working when I took it off no longer works
). Today I wheeled her out and got my leathers on.
"I'll take my phone" I said to the Mrs. I stashed a flat screwdriver and a 10mm spanner in my pocket, too, just in case.
She started like before and I set off through the village and out onto the A30 west toward Shaftesbury. It's a fast A road with some lovely bends. I decided to keep it below 4000 rpm, and turn back at the first sign of anything. 4000rpm is actually quite close to 70mph so it wasn't a boring ride. After 11 miles I arrived at Compton Abbas airfield and pulled up for a checkover. A drip of oil at the final drive drain was all I found. I rode home and on a down-hill stretch I took her briefly to 5000rpm. The verdict is all thumbs up - no need to change carb settings until the 'first service' oil change after about 600 miles. Very pleased.
* I always thought I'd move to a handlebar master cylinder but changed my mind. I put the original under-tank master cylinder back on, bled and adjusted the brakes. The position of the under-tank master cylinder on the frame needed some adjustment as it can obstruct fitment of the tank in its correct position. I had to 'trial-and-error' it but the master cylinder does have to sit quite far forward. As the master cylinder was at least 20 years past its last overhaul (I had to strike it with a hammer to get it working back in 2016) I've always been wary that it might leak at any moment. So I cut a bicycle inner tube to get some sheet rubber to cover the frame tube, to protect it against any future leaks. I've also sent a spare master-cylinder off to 'Past Parts' to get it re-sleeved (stainless) and plated. If I like the look of it when it comes back I'll swap it in.
Pictures show the bike at Compton Abbas in its 'camouflage', halfway through the first 22 mile trip. Exhausts starting to change colour nicely - but rest of bike is ugly!
I checked with the 'paint guy' when my bodywork might be ready. He's in Derby, I'm near Salisbury. But my son is at Nottingham Uni and has no transport up there (his CRF250 is a hangar queen at home). So when I go up to fetch him for Christmas, I'll be picking up the finished bodywork.
But the incremental additions to the chassis continued and I made the decision to ride the bike before then, to shake everything down before the new clothes are fitted. So I installed the mudguards I got when I bought a secondhand R100RS fairing - in a fetching non-standard metallic blue. A spare /6 seat fitted on easily. I did the front brakes* and put the numberplate on. Strangely I had no electrical gremlins (except the horn which was working when I took it off no longer works
). Today I wheeled her out and got my leathers on."I'll take my phone" I said to the Mrs. I stashed a flat screwdriver and a 10mm spanner in my pocket, too, just in case.
She started like before and I set off through the village and out onto the A30 west toward Shaftesbury. It's a fast A road with some lovely bends. I decided to keep it below 4000 rpm, and turn back at the first sign of anything. 4000rpm is actually quite close to 70mph so it wasn't a boring ride. After 11 miles I arrived at Compton Abbas airfield and pulled up for a checkover. A drip of oil at the final drive drain was all I found. I rode home and on a down-hill stretch I took her briefly to 5000rpm. The verdict is all thumbs up - no need to change carb settings until the 'first service' oil change after about 600 miles. Very pleased.
* I always thought I'd move to a handlebar master cylinder but changed my mind. I put the original under-tank master cylinder back on, bled and adjusted the brakes. The position of the under-tank master cylinder on the frame needed some adjustment as it can obstruct fitment of the tank in its correct position. I had to 'trial-and-error' it but the master cylinder does have to sit quite far forward. As the master cylinder was at least 20 years past its last overhaul (I had to strike it with a hammer to get it working back in 2016) I've always been wary that it might leak at any moment. So I cut a bicycle inner tube to get some sheet rubber to cover the frame tube, to protect it against any future leaks. I've also sent a spare master-cylinder off to 'Past Parts' to get it re-sleeved (stainless) and plated. If I like the look of it when it comes back I'll swap it in.
Pictures show the bike at Compton Abbas in its 'camouflage', halfway through the first 22 mile trip. Exhausts starting to change colour nicely - but rest of bike is ugly!
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Hmmmm A 'North American T-6' Harvard trainer . . . Very nice 
.
The bike looks good, despite the colour scheme.
Bob.
.The bike looks good, despite the colour scheme.
Bob.
Hmmmm A 'North American T-6' Harvard trainer . . . Very nice
The bike looks good, despite the colour scheme.
Bob.
Colour scheme will change in a month or so.
The Harvard is more accurately called the T-6 Texan see here https://www.boeing.com/history/products/t-6-texan-trainer.page
I happen to have another bike pictured near one.....
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That Sir, is gorgeous 
And the brake master cylinder. These were refurbished by Past Parts. This involved putting a stainless steel sleeve (approx 17mm ID) and plating the body. I bought the repair kit from Motorworks. I'll pop the adjuster back on when I swap over the current master cylinder. Due to the repair, Past Parts supply the correct size circlip to retain the piston in the body. The one in the repair kit is too big.
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Great work that man,for sure it will look an absolute treat when finished.The R90S is one of my favourite older BMW's.Good luck with the rest of the build
I also started to fit the bodywork to the bike. I ran out of grommets I use to fit in the 2 locating holes at the bottom front of the rear mudguard, so had to wait for them before fitting it. I got some stainless plates and a neighbour with a TIG welder tacked a pair of M6x20 hex bolts to each to make the brackets to fix the mudguard, tool tray and rear light assembly back onto the bike.
Byron of this parish gave me a new foam piece for under the cowl and I finally got round to fitting it.
Cockpit next.
Byron of this parish gave me a new foam piece for under the cowl and I finally got round to fitting it.
Cockpit next.
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Glad to see the 90s is coming to life. The foam looks great. Well done sir
It's coming together, just a few more jobs. All the bodywork is installed apart from the tank emblems; I am cleaning up the original enamelled metal badges. Also I bought a new seat from Germany. It isn't sitting down (so the pin stripes look out of line) as I haven't installed the seat lock mechanism yet and Byron's seat foam springs it up a bit. Also I'm cleaning up the rear footrests. Strangely have't got any horns to work on it. And I'm missing an exhaust clamp. Main thing is it's ridable and is being ridden (weather permitting).
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