Second time this now has happened…

EVskij

EVskij

Hand-crafting clients' ideas in real time
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2018 1290 SAS.

After problem free jaunt to Spain (apart from loosing headlight retaining bolt), I have filled up a tankfull weekend before last, literally brimmed it. Turned the bike on and gauge only showing 200 mile range (normally 240-250) and top bar is empty (suggesting I haven’t filled it up fully). I doubted myself and as I was already riding on a dual carriageway with missus on the back, I did not bother checking and the issue soon escaped me. Came back home and certainly it did not cross my mind to check or ev end enquire about it.

So went for a quick blast yesterday, refuelled again and same thing. 200 mile range and top bar is empty…..

Any ideas?
I can ring Dealer, but rather not bother them with what might be something very simple.
 
If the same fuel sender unit is fitted to 1290s as it is to 1190s, then you may have the same issue i had.


After a few times faffing around with a sticking float, I had the same issue as you with the top segment not lighting. I fitted a new sender and it all worked again. I then pulled the old sender apart and I found part of the plug at the top had expanded and bulged out, preventing the float going right to the top. Getting the bottom of the sender off is easy, the top, not so much.

Not really fixable and a new one is probably the best answer if this is the case. About £65 IIRC.

sender%202-XL.jpg


You can just about see one half of the green bit protruding just enough to impede the float.

sender%201-XL.jpg
 
Bugger!

However I came across not long after posting about the issue a YouTube video and the guy just sanded the top (outer edge) of the float, reassembled it and fitted. All worked fine from there.

How hard is it to access the fuel sender/float?
 
My unlit segment issue was not the float as such, although I'd had problems with it sticking at either top or bottom before that were temporarily resolved by sanding. It appeared the green rubber was the problem, although I can't rule out an electronic issue. There is a damping element introduced between the float switch and the gauge so it doesn't jump up and down as the fuel sloshes about. This *could* be in the sender and it *could* be failing somehow and causing the problem. I suspect though that the damping is in the ECU and it is a simple mechanical problem.
 
I wonder if E10 fuel had anything to do with it. As I only started to fill up with E10 after returning from Spain at the end of September. E5 is still the main fuel on the continent, it seem.
 
Thanks for the tipoff. I will call the dealer tomorrow and see what they have to say. I would say that it is a very premature failure for a bike that is not even 3 years old and just coming up to 13k miles.
 
My sender failed at 1800 miles....Bike new October 2019. Due to Covid I didnt get out alot and mechanic said they dont like sitting still! Only fuel I ever use is Shell V-power.
 
EVskij said:
Thanks for the tipoff. I will call the dealer tomorrow and see what they have to say. I would say that it is a very premature failure for a bike that is not even 3 years old and just coming up to 13k miles.
Click to expand...

And they will say it is 3 years old and out of warranty, at least it is not a very expensive part.

My 1290S sometimes takes a while for the last segment to light up, I am not sure if this is down to the damping "mechanism" (This will be software taking the average reading over a few cycles) but I do not remember it taking as long as it does now in the past, maybe 1-2 miles from leaving the fuel station these days. Perhaps this is down to the bike being used less, a combo of COVID and a baby have really cut down my outings.

But so far it has always gone to full and seems to wind back down fairly accurately, although will show 0 mile range when there is probably @3L left in the tank, which is not a bad thing as I did once have to ride for 10 miles after it showed 0 miles due to being unable to find an open fuel station in the Pyrenees.

Still worth having a (polite) whinge with dealer, but AFAIK KTM are not very good at "goodwill gestures" for people who suffer from their design flaws / cheapo components, and this has been a problem with all 1x90, and 8 years on the same shit design / low quality items are being used.
 
Rasher said:
And they will say it is 3 years old and out of warranty, at least it is not a very expensive part.

My 1290S sometimes takes a while for the last segment to light up, I am not sure if this is down to the damping "mechanism" (This will be software taking the average reading over a few cycles) but I do not remember it taking as long as it does now in the past, maybe 1-2 miles from leaving the fuel station these days. Perhaps this is down to the bike being used less, a combo of COVID and a baby have really cut down my outings.

But so far it has always gone to full and seems to wind back down fairly accurately, although will show 0 mile range when there is probably @3L left in the tank, which is not a bad thing as I did once have to ride for 10 miles after it showed 0 miles due to being unable to find an open fuel station in the Pyrenees.

Still worth having a (polite) whinge with dealer, but AFAIK KTM are not very good at "goodwill gestures" for people who suffer from their design flaws / cheapo components, and this has been a problem with all 1x90, and 8 years on the same shit design / low quality items are being used.
Click to expand...

Tell me about it!
Rang them yesterday, and they basically told me that bike is out of warranty, would you like to book it in for a part replacement? I politely said that as it is out of warranty and I am due to park it for the winter, then I will leave it for now.

I may give it a go at taking the float apart and sanding the float part it self. See if that would make any difference.

I also have as an iffy hazard warning light switch. It takes some pressing (multiple times) to turn on the lights, and same to turn it off.

Any ideas?
 
I tried removing the float on my 1190 then polishing it but it didn’t really help so I had a new one fitted under warranty when it went in for a service.

If I had the same problem and no warranty I’d just buy the float and fit it because you’ll have to buy one eventually and you’ll have done the job twice.
 
AndyB_11 said:
I tried removing the float on my 1190 then polishing it but it didn’t really help so I had a new one fitted under warranty when it went in for a service.

If I had the same problem and no warranty I’d just buy the float and fit it because you’ll have to buy one eventually and you’ll have done the job twice.
Click to expand...

I guess you are correct. Annoying though that it only lasted 12500 miles. A bit of a crap design/quality to be honest.
 
EVskij said:
I guess you are correct. Annoying though that it only lasted 12500 miles. A bit of a crap design/quality to be honest.
Click to expand...

Not if you buy them in bulk for £2.50 and flog them for £65

As long as mine remains fairly accurate lower down the readings I won't change it, plus I reset trip 1 when I refuel, always average 45+ mpg = 10+ miles to the litre, and a 23L tank means a 230+ mile range, so I know to never panic if I see a fuel light before 200 miles.
 
Ev, if it's the issue of the float not going fully to the top, then as the fuel level drops it will presumably start to work normally?

Does the 200 mile range figure remain at 200 until you've done a few miles, (the missing bar's worth)?

Paul
 
The Other PaulG said:
Ev, if it's the issue of the float not going fully to the top, then as the fuel level drops it will presumably start to work normally?

Does the 200 mile range figure remain at 200 until you've done a few miles, (the missing bar's worth)?

Paul
Click to expand...

That’s correct Paul, I haven’t reset the trip meter for the past two rides but I know the one I’ve done a couple of weeks ago was circa 180 miles and remaining fuel readout was circa 50-60 miles. So seem to be correct. The ride last weekend, was only about 60-70 miles, mostly down the country lanes. The 1290 is a fun bike, but their electronic components seem a bit to sensitive.

Feel like I may have to get it fixed and possibly let it go. Do I try a V4 multi? Or do I give a go on a Honda ATAS? Wouldn’t mind going back to GSA, but at over £21k fully specked up, it’s a tad rich and I can’t stand the new inductors on them. I think they look utterly awful not to mention (in my humble opinion) dangerous.
 
Rasher said:
Not if you buy them in bulk for £2.50 and flog them for £65

As long as mine remains fairly accurate lower down the readings I won't change it, plus I reset trip 1 when I refuel, always average 45+ mpg = 10+ miles to the litre, and a 23L tank means a 230+ mile range, so I know to never panic if I see a fuel light before 200 miles.
Click to expand...

I will have to replace mine, if I end up selling it. Along with a new RH switchgear as hazard warning light button is not working as it should.
 
Old thread but its and easy fix. Take the float out and sand around the top edge plus any imperfections. Mine stuck on full but this solved it and it works spot on. 30 min job and easyto do
 
mike wright said:
Old thread but its and easy fix. Take the float out and sand around the top edge plus any imperfections. Mine stuck on full but this solved it and it works spot on. 30 min job and easyto do
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. Will do
 
EVskij said:
I will have to replace mine, if I end up selling it. Along with a new RH switchgear as hazard warning light button is not working as it should.
Click to expand...

I suggest checking if the dealer will replace this switch under warranty, I think it is a known fault.
 
EVskij said:
Ok, thanks. Will do
Click to expand...

There is a good video on Youtube which shows you how to do it. Just take it bit by bit with the sanding and when you feel it freely slide its correct. Dont over sand it or the float will be come porous and simply sink
 
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