Clutch / gearbox issue - No 2nd gear upwards

Panos

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Hi all, first post in the forum, I need some help/guidance on a clutch/gearbox issue I am having with my GS (K50 LC 2013 model).

My driveshaft broke one morning on my way to work (the front cross broke…) but unfortunately took the gearbox output shaft out as well..

I dropped the engine, removed clutch and gearbox, and installed new clutch discs (aftermarket Recluse one) and a second-hand gearbox I got from eBay. I also flashed the hydraulic fluid on the clutch, and I can confirm that when the clutch lever is pulled in, I can see movement in the clutch basket, the discs are pulling apart. Of course, I also had to replace the driveshaft :)

Now, I got two problems:

1. I got no 2nd gear or upwards. Just first and neutral! Bike starts, goes into 1st gear, I release the clutch the wheel spins. I am trying to go into second and it’s like I am hitting a wall, foot pedal doesn’t move. Just to note that I tried the used gearbox before fitting into the bike and it cycled through all gears as expected.

2. Clutch is very stiff when in first gear and lever is pulled all the way in, it’s almost impossible to move the bike, it feels like the clutch is still engaged or something.

Any suggestions / ideas would be very much appreciated, thanks all!
 
Hi and welcome

I might be completely off the mark here but I presume you know the clutch uses standard mineral oil rather than clutch/brake fluid?

Also search the forum, there is a thread somewhere about a modified clutch push rod, I believe there are 2 different lengths possible depending on the age of the gearbox

Edit, found the thread,….
https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...-engine-swap?p=5582544&viewfull=1#post5582544
 
thanks leadfarmer, I did use mineral oil to bleed the clutch, no worries there.
I saw a post on a forum a week or so ago about newer pushrods been a bit longer but the ones that came with the second-hand clutch from eBay had exactly the same length rods.. hmm I may end up ordering a set of newer ones from motorworks to gain a couple more mm. maybe that will do the trick.
 
Panos said:
thanks leadfarmer, I did use mineral oil to bleed the clutch, no worries there.
I saw a post on a forum a week or so ago about newer pushrods been a bit longer but the ones that came with the second-hand clutch from eBay had exactly the same length rods.. hmm I may end up ordering a set of newer ones from motorworks to gain a couple more mm. maybe that will do the trick.
Click to expand...

You need to order the longer pushrod by part number , if you give the bike details you will get the one that's specced for your bike - ie the shorter pushrod
 
Santa-2512 said:
You need to order the longer pushrod by part number , if you give the bike details you will get the one that's specced for your bike - ie the shorter pushrod
Click to expand...

According to both realoem and Motorworks, it should be part no 21528564185.
I am just thinking though if this actually going to help me find my lost gears... i can go from 1st to neutral and back so not 100% sure if the rod is actually the culprit.
My original gearbox used the same length rods as the second hand one I got from EBay..

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sh...-K50-BMW-R_1200_GS_0A01,_0A11_&diagId=21_0264
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=10&M=36&Ct=CA&SbCt=BA_10_36_CA_50 (part CLO64185)
 
Not quite sure what yiu are saying: do you think its a clutch problem or gearbox. You say it doesnt go into gears 2nd & up. Can you get the gears with it just in centre stand and turning back wheel without engine running?. If you can gearbox works and gear linkage etc. Is ok. If clutch isnt disengaging then wheel will keep turning in 1st gear even with clutch in. But you say it goes into first gear & let clutch out & then wheel spins ?? So clutch must be working if it doesnt spin till you let clutch out?? Im confused.
 
pbbanks said:
Not quite sure what yiu are saying: do you think its a clutch problem or gearbox. You say it doesnt go into gears 2nd & up. Can you get the gears with it just in centre stand and turning back wheel without engine running?. If you can gearbox works and gear linkage etc. Is ok. If clutch isnt disengaging then wheel will keep turning in 1st gear even with clutch in. But you say it goes into first gear & let clutch out & then wheel spins ?? So clutch must be working if it doesnt spin till you let clutch out?? Im confused.
Click to expand...
I am not sure if the problem is the clutch or the gearbox.. I got no 2nd gear and up at all, either with the bike off or engine running. When clutch lever is pulled in, wheel is not turning. Engaging the clutch into 1st gear get the wheel turning ok. I can go into neutral but not 2nd. When in 1st gear with clutch lever pulled, it's very difficult to move the bike, it feels like the clutch is still a bit engaged. Hope this helps to clarify my issue.

Sent from my M2011K2G using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like just might be the gear linkage adjustment if it doesnt move upwards from mid position. If not it might be more serious and internal gearbox problem but you say you could change up all gears before you installed it??. It should still move up gears without engine running if you turn back wheel as you move gear lever, even without pulling clutch in.
 
pbbanks said:
Sounds like just might be the gear linkage adjustment if it doesnt move upwards from mid position. If not it might be more serious and internal gearbox problem but you say you could change up all gears before you installed it??. It should still move up gears without engine running if you turn back wheel as you move gear lever, even without pulling clutch in.
Click to expand...
When you say "gear linkage adjustment", do you mean the link between foot pedal and gearbox?

Sent from my M2011K2G using Tapatalk
 
Yes. Is it on the splines at the right position and not hitting anything to stop it moving up?. Either on the lever or anywhere else along linkage to gearbox shaft where it goes into box. If it is all clear and could move must be an internal problem in gearbox??. Try disconnecting the linkage where it fits onto gearbox shaft arm and see if you can move the arm both ways and if it changes up gears, if not, it is internal.
 
If it worked off the bike ? What changed apart from fitting?

If you can remove teh linkage to the gear lever and CAREFully Use Mole Grips or something on the "bit" at the gearbox

Can you select the gears with engine off and rocking the back wheel ?

Answer is the way you have refitted the linkage mechanism

If no Take it it out and recheck it
 
Sounds like an internal mechanical issue with selector fork/drum engagement.
 
Pukmeister said:
Sounds like an internal mechanical issue with selector fork/drum engagement.
Click to expand...

To me, this sounds like a selector drum or selector fork issue. Even if it sound like a terrible idea, the chances are that the gearbox must be opened again.
 
pbbanks said:
Yes. Is it on the splines at the right position and not hitting anything to stop it moving up?
Click to expand...
Yes, It is aligned as supposed to be and there is nothing obvious to stop it from moving up and down.

DrFarkoff said:
If it worked off the bike ? What changed apart from fitting?
Click to expand...
While engine was out (twice), I fitted the secondhand ebay gearbox and new Rekluse clutch. all 6 gears worked ok then.

Pukmeister said:
Sounds like an internal mechanical issue with selector fork/drum engagement.
Click to expand...
it shouldn’t be as all gears worked ok before fitting everything back together to the engine and frame.

I prefer not to but if I have to I will remove the engine again and investigate.
For now, I will order the longer clutch rod from Motorworks as well as a new oring and redo the clutch slave.
My local mechanic told me that if the new clutch discs work ok in first gear then they should work ok in all 6 but i also have the issue where its very difficult to move the bike while in 1st gear and clutch level is pulled.. I may have to drain the oil and recheck the clutch as well..
 
Panos said:
Yes, It is aligned as supposed to be and there is nothing obvious to stop it from moving up and down.


While engine was out (twice), I fitted the secondhand ebay gearbox and new Rekluse clutch. all 6 gears worked ok then.


it shouldn’t be as all gears worked ok before fitting everything back together to the engine and frame.

I prefer not to but if I have to I will remove the engine again and investigate.
For now, I will order the longer clutch rod from Motorworks as well as a new oring and redo the clutch slave.
My local mechanic told me that if the new clutch discs work ok in first gear then they should work ok in all 6 but i also have the issue where its very difficult to move the bike while in 1st gear and clutch level is pulled.. I may have to drain the oil and recheck the clutch as well..
Click to expand...

Clutch has nothing to do with gearbox not changing gears when engine isn't running. If you can't change through the gears when the engine is stopped, bike on centre stand, and rocking the back wheel back & forth, then your problem is nothing to do with the clutch. Just tried mine and it changes up and down gears easily. no clutch, bike not started obviously.
 
pbbanks said:
Clutch should have nothing to do with gearbox not changig gears when engine isn't running. If you can't change through the gears when the engine is stopped, bike on centre stand, and rocking the back wheel back & forth, then your probem is nothing to do with the clutch. Just tried mine and it changes up and down gears easily. no cltuch, bike not started obviously.
Click to expand...

mine wont go into 2nd even with engine off.. I will investigate this afternoon and probably try replacing clutch rods first, then take it from there.
 
Panos said:
mine wont go into 2nd even with engine off.. I will investigate this afternoon and probably try replacing clutch rods first, then take it from there.
Click to expand...

Try changing gears when you just take the clutch rod out. if gearbox worked when it was all asembled to engine (as you say) and before fitting back to frame then it must be something that happened when fitting back into frame. Good luck with sorting it. Let us know what it is when you fix it.
 
Panos said:
it shouldn’t be ( an internal fault) as all gears worked ok before fitting everything back together to the engine and frame.
Click to expand...

Do you mean the gears shifted fine BEFORE assembling the transmission into the engine cases, or they worked fine AFTER assembling into the cases?
 
pbbanks said:
Try changing gears when you just take the clutch rod out. if gearbox worked when it was all asembled to engine (as you say) and before fitting back to frame then it must be something that happened when fitting back into frame. Good luck with sorting it. Let us know what it is when you fix it.
Click to expand...

yes i will try that, thanks for your help!
 
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