1150gs cutch noise

Notsomadmax

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Looking at adding an 1150 to the stable for winter. Found one that has been put away since Covid kicked in. 67,000 miles all seems ok other than clutch seems quite noisy when ticking over. Doesnt recall it being like it when put away and goes quieter when you pull the clutch in?

Worrying about nothing or are we thinking new clutch/bearing??
 
What sort of a noise is it making ? There isn’t much in an 1150 clutch that would rattle, they’re very much like a car clutch. If it’s a whirring/ screeching sort of noise it sounds like a release bearing. It may settle back down with some use but when bearings start making noise they seldom get better on their own. I think when I did mine the whole kit was something like £350.
 
On dry clutches, such as the ones on the 1150, the clutch release bearing is doing nothing until the lever is pulled, so it's not the clutch release bearing that is making the noise.

Does the noise go when the revs are lifted a little, say to 1,500-2,000 RPM.
 
noise

Difficult to explain and wont upload the video I have. Kind of similar to brake pads on a rusty disc? Not been ridden obviously in 2 years just straight out of shed.

Heard some pretty hideous noises on here from clutch slave cylinder bearing, does that go away when you activate clutch or stay noisy?
 
The clutch release bearing is a tiny little thrust bearing located in the end of the slave cylinder piston. It is constantly under pressure from the clutch push rod which pushes against the piston. As the push rod spins with the engine, then so does as the thrust bearing.

When the bearing starts to fail, it will cause the piston in the slave cylinder to spin and before the seals give out will produce metal particles and turn your clutch fluid black.

Lift the lid off the clutch master cyclinder and check the fluid. If it’s clear then all is OK for the moment.
 
Ian J Hartley said:
The clutch release bearing is a tiny little thrust bearing located in the end of the slave cylinder piston. It is constantly under pressure from the clutch push rod which pushes against the piston. As the push rod spins with the engine, then so does as the thrust bearing....
Click to expand...
I didn't realise this.... please ignore post #3 notsomadmax :blast
 
I think all 1150's get noisier in hot weather! 20/50 engine oil helps a bit. My 1150 is much quieter qhen the twmp drops back into the mid 20's.
 
Mine sounds awful when the clutch is released in neutral. If it bothers you, try pulling the clutch in...:p
 
Update took the plunge... Clutch lever pulled in no noise out intermittent rough sounding noise, Up road in gear quite a lot of rough quite loud whining noise ..ho hum where to start..
 
Notsomadmax said:
Update took the plunge... Clutch lever pulled in no noise out intermittent rough sounding noise, Up road in gear quite a lot of rough quite loud whining noise ..ho hum where to start..
Click to expand...

Drain the gear oil and look for sparkles in the oil ??? If there is some Its a strip down But you get to know the bike

OR bung in some viscous oil till you have time to change the box or replace the bearings

JUST make sure it is GL5 spec oil Not GL4/5
 
That will be next step but surely it's more clutch related than gearbox on the basis there is no noise with clutch pulled in?
 
Notsomadmax said:
That will be next step but surely it's more clutch related than gearbox on the basis there is no noise with clutch pulled in?
Click to expand...

so where is the noise coming from? There are two steel bits that are attached to the crankshaft and sprung together with another bit that attaches to the input shaft that fits between the other two

When you pull in the clutch the load (even in neutral)is taken off the input shaft and bearing

So where is the clutch noise being made ?

Don;t be fooling yourself, It's in the gearbox!! Most Likely the input shaft bearing

More viscous gear oil may reduce the rumbling and protect it for a while

If the oil that was used before was GL4 spec it may be teeth damage doing the rumbling
 
Notsomadmax said:
That will be next step but surely it's more clutch related than gearbox on the basis there is no noise with clutch pulled in?
Click to expand...

On the basis that no shafts are turning in the gearbox with the clutch pulled in I’d suggest it’s the gearbox
 
Ta..gonna be fun me thinks not. Maybe a punt I shouldn't of taken.. oh well...
 
DrFarkoff said:
so where is the noise coming from? There are two steel bits that are attached to the crankshaft and sprung together with another bit that attaches to the input shaft that fits between the other two

When you pull in the clutch the load (even in neutral)is taken off the input shaft and bearing

So where is the clutch noise being made ?

Don;t be fooling yourself, It's in the gearbox!! Most Likely the input shaft bearing

More viscous gear oil may reduce the rumbling and protect it for a while

If the oil that was used before was GL4 spec it may be teeth damage doing the rumbling
Click to expand...

Bit beyond thicker oil me thinks more of loud whine than rumble..from starter motor area.... Cheers for the advice
 
Notsomadmax said:
Ta..gonna be fun me thinks not. Maybe a punt I shouldn't of taken.. oh well...
Click to expand...

Do NOT just jump in and start pulling everything apart

Eliminate the possibilities before settling on dismantling

If the oil has no sparkles it may just be very thin / wrong grade etc etc

You can use what you like in the gearbox but when I was doing servicing and maintenance

I settled on EP80 or 90 GL5** and EP 85W 140 GL5** for the FD This covered all the bases and I Believe offered better protection for the FD

Also PRobably a good idea to flush your Brake a clutch fluids and make sure you have fresh in the systems

**Gear Oil Must be GL5 spec GL4 can lead to damaged helical gears in the BM gearboxes
 
DrFarkoff said:
Do NOT just jump in and start pulling everything apart

Eliminate the possibilities before settling on dismantling

If the oil has no sparkles it may just be very thin / wrong grade etc etc

You can use what you like in the gearbox but when I was doing servicing and maintenance

I settled on EP80 or 90 GL5** and EP 85W 140 GL5** for the FD This covered all the bases and I Believe offered better protection for the FD

Also PRobably a good idea to flush your Brake a clutch fluids and make sure you have fresh in the systems

**Gear Oil Must be GL5 spec GL4 can lead to damaged helical gears in the BM gearboxes
Click to expand...

Cheers I am indeed doing all that first.. See how we go.
 
DrFarkoff said:
Do NOT just jump in and start pulling everything apart

Eliminate the possibilities before settling on dismantling

If the oil has no sparkles it may just be very thin / wrong grade etc etc

You can use what you like in the gearbox but when I was doing servicing and maintenance

I settled on EP80 or 90 GL5** and EP 85W 140 GL5** for the FD This covered all the bases and I Believe offered better protection for the FD

Also PRobably a good idea to flush your Brake a clutch fluids and make sure you have fresh in the systems

**Gear Oil Must be GL5 spec GL4 can lead to damaged helical gears in the BM gearboxes
Click to expand...

Picture attached. No large pieces just a bit of sparkly sludge. ??
 

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