Fuel not getting through injectors.

Rugged Path

Rugged Path

The Honourable.
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This is the first round in getting my 2001 1150GSA on the road again.

Getting fuel to injectors so pump is working but, not through them!
Either all injectors blocked (OEM & 1200 mod Bosch injectors).
Using a continuity lightbulb test pen, with ignition on and in run position, I get no light to say any voltage showing at injector 2-pin connections.

Odds are it is an electrical issue.

I swopped round the fuel pump relay with the motronic one (same type)
Disconnected Lamba sensor, no change.

On my wiring schematic, yellow wire goes direct to the Motronic CU pin #27 (VERV). I have a spare control unit.
Black wire does a circuit around the relays and 02 sensor.
Fuses in underseat box are good.

As the fuel pump is working, the 4 pin tank connection should not be an issue.
Am I missing something?





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squibb34 said:
Possible HES problem ?
Click to expand...

When I had it fully checked over early this year during a service and sorting out fuel / electrical problems via an indie beemer mechanic (at great expense in labour time) it was going but, too rich. He had swapped and/or replaced most parts to troubleshoot and try to find out why.
I need to get a pair of small electrical crocodile leads to hook up injectors to a 12v battery and see when starting, the solenoid opens injectors as there is pressure from fuel pump behind them.
 
Remove injector from fuel delivery pipe and check if pressurised fuel is actually reaching the injector.
 
Steptoe said:
Remove injector from fuel delivery pipe and check if pressurised fuel is actually reaching the injector.
Click to expand...

This

I was wondering any chance you had the tank off and was the 2001 an early one without quick release couplings ?

Any chance tank hoses on arse about face ??

Can you hear the fuel pump spin up and whine a little as it goes under pressure??

Pipe blown off or maybe U bend split? But they usually start but won;t rev up with this

And are you checking for signal between the Two connector pins or Positive and ground ??
 
Steptoe, *Done that already and plenty of squirtability into a bottle*.

I assume not getting a signal to the injector solenoid to open up. Saw a YouTube video on how to open solenoids directly from a spare battery; independent of bike and see if that works.

There are only two wires to injectors. But which one actually opens and closes solenoid; yellow or black (on my schematic).

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk
 
The injector gets +12v via the fuel pump relay on the Green/white wire.
Contact 1 of the injector connector.

What opens and closes the injector is a negative pulse from the Motronic on the Yellow/Grey wire.
Contact 2 of the injector connector.
 
This is an easy set up to see if jets are not blocked. Yellow clip to negative, whilst tapping the red clip to the battery positive terminal, I get a spray pattern for both sides.
So no blockage.
8620b409e2813f577c04a9c41b2805fd.jpg


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The corresponding sockets under the seat for the blade highlighted by the screwdriver has power to it.
Both fuel pump and Motronic relays.

Could both relays have expired at the same time as I did swop them around to try and fire up the bike.

Or is it taking the tank off again to rummage around?

Off to cut the hedges to help me calm dow and relax .
ab5416bd8a0729245ed4a2e2afe56da0.jpg


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My monies on post #2

You can try this, it’s not necessary full proof but it might help you.

Bike on centre stand side stand retracted.
Remove both injectors and stick them in bottles to catch the fuel.
Make sure they are electrically connected.
Remove spark plugs and fit them to HT leads/stick coils.
Make sure the spark plugs are grounded.
Stick the bike in Top gear.
Turn on the ignition
Turn the back wheel in direction of forward travel.

You are now simulating the characteristics of the bike running. As you turn the rear wheel, the engine will rotate and as it does so the HES, should pulse and send it’s signal to the Motronic which, all being well will fire the injectors both at the same time, with half a revolution later both spark plugs should fire.

If you get no spark and no injectors, then probably the HES is faulty.
 
I believe that someone sells an updated / improved one and another guy will repair / improve the original.

For this weekend, will have a go at Ian's suggestion.

Any other ideas why injectors are not functioning?

Thanks
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You can test the fuel HES this way:
Ignition on
Turn the engine manually from the alternator lower pulley with a 16 mm wrench.
The fuel pump should start once (whining noise) every full turn of the pulley.
If not, the fuel HES is a problem.
 
Pekkavee said:
You can test the fuel HES this way:
Ignition on
Turn the engine manually from the alternator lower pulley with a 16 mm wrench.
The fuel pump should start once (whining noise) every full turn of the pulley.
If not, the fuel HES is a problem.
Click to expand...
Fuel pump works as getting fuel pressure behind the injectors and they squirt through .


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Remove a fuel injector from the fuel house, remove spring clip and pull the injector off the fuel line. Turn on ignition and see if fuel pumps out of the fuel line ... if yes then put injector back in place as normal. With a test bulb or similar (I have a test noide) unplug the electrical connection to the injector, place the two leads of your test bulb onto the two terminals on the injector connection/plug and press the starter button. The test bulb should flash on and off as the engine turns over..... doing those two tests will show if you have a fuel problem or electrical problem. Let us know which, then we can move onto finding the cause of the fault.

Copied from Steptoe
 
albatross said:
Remove a fuel injector from the fuel house, remove spring clip and pull the injector off the fuel line. Turn on ignition and see if fuel pumps out of the fuel line ... if yes then put injector back in place as normal. With a test bulb or similar (I have a test noide) unplug the electrical connection to the injector, place the two leads of your test bulb onto the two terminals on the injector connection/plug and press the starter button. The test bulb should flash on and off as the engine turns over..... doing those two tests will show if you have a fuel problem or electrical problem. Let us know which, then we can move onto finding the cause of the fault.

Copied from Steptoe
Click to expand...
Now where am I on this woeful endeavour as it is still not firing up.
Individually, the following has been carried out. First off must admit, it is getting me down and I seem to walk away from furit all the time.
1. Had it checked & serviced initially for the poor starting / running rich by an indie on the Welsh border area which cost me too much. It was running but, difficult at low revs and it was backfiring.
2. Someone suggested to disconnect the O2 sensor but, no change. That was sooting up constantly.
3. Checked injectors and they work OK on and off bike by activating solenoid. So pressure behind them from fuel pump which charges up when ignition on.
4. With plugs out and against cylinders, a quick start on the bottom gives me a spark.
5. Cleaned and checked wires & connections under the tank.
6. Swopped the ECU with a spare I have with no cha
7. I get power via an intermittent light from the injector wire (yellow) when turning over motor.
8. Swopped the black relays under seat for fuel pump and Motronic.

All back together and no luck in firing up. Others have said it is the hall sensor unit. Or could it be the O2 sensor

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I am thinking I will buy a new upgraded hall sensor unit from Greece and give it a go and maybe the O2 sensor as these are part of the 'green/white' wiring circuit as opposed to the 'yellow/white' ECU circuit.
Expert labour costs are high so will for now do the above myself.

Disslusioned it was not fully sorted the first time around especially after so much was spent on labour time as opposed to new parts.

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Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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