If you detour via Clarens you will ride through some truly beautiful countryside.
Gaels in Mozambique.
- Thread starter Drumacoon Lad.
- Start date
My ex in-laws had a farm there, great countryside
Great stuff Jim and Simon!
Looking forward to following the trip
Looking forward to following the trip
Thanks for the comments guys. We had passed Clarens already but Simon called in there for a coffee on his way to Lesotho and thought it was a lovely place.
Well the Weet-Bix were great this morning and allowed us an early start. The landlady wasn't delighted at the rugby result and having two Irish men under her roof but gave us a cheery wave off. This was mostly a riding day and got us to the Eswatini border by mid afternoon. The border was easy but we had to pay a small toll to use the roads.
Things got complicated finding accommodation in Eswatini, or Swaziland as the locals call it. We didn't have a SIM for our phone and no access to Google or Booking.com. So we found a hotel via the GPS, who directed us to another hotel which was full, but the staff took it as there responsibility to find us accommodation. They allowed us to use their wifi and made calls to hotels and we found a suitable place not far away. When we arrived ar tge hotel they apologised that the kitchen was closed, so dinner was possible. They must have seen the disappointed look on our faces, so the called in the chef and we've just had a wonderful meal.
Our early impressions of Eswatini are positive, as the people are so cheerful and friendly.
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Well the Weet-Bix were great this morning and allowed us an early start. The landlady wasn't delighted at the rugby result and having two Irish men under her roof but gave us a cheery wave off. This was mostly a riding day and got us to the Eswatini border by mid afternoon. The border was easy but we had to pay a small toll to use the roads.
Things got complicated finding accommodation in Eswatini, or Swaziland as the locals call it. We didn't have a SIM for our phone and no access to Google or Booking.com. So we found a hotel via the GPS, who directed us to another hotel which was full, but the staff took it as there responsibility to find us accommodation. They allowed us to use their wifi and made calls to hotels and we found a suitable place not far away. When we arrived ar tge hotel they apologised that the kitchen was closed, so dinner was possible. They must have seen the disappointed look on our faces, so the called in the chef and we've just had a wonderful meal.
Our early impressions of Eswatini are positive, as the people are so cheerful and friendly.
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Once had a serious night out in Clarens in a place called the Phatt Chef. Simon, who was the chef patron, now runs a place in the Drakensberg called the Border Post. Probably too far east for you now though…
Richard: who knows where our route may take us?
In the process of lifting the 800 GS from the mud (albeit with assistance) I seem to have put my back out so yesterday was a very uncomfortable day for me. The km long driveway to our lodge was quite tricky so I had no great enthusiasm for going outagain for dinner and tackling it in the dark.
Fortunately the lodge rustled up an excellent dinner.
But when I looked at myself I saw I was bent sideways and the back feeling very tight.
The prospect of another day in the saddle today was unappealing and this morning I listened to the wise counsel of Drumacoon Lad and sought a physio.
This was made easier because the chap at the only other occupied table at breakfast turned out to be one of the lodge owner family (who go back to the Ward family of N Ireland some generations ago, who emigrated to Zambia and then to Swazi).
He quickly made me a 10h00 appointment at the Mbabane Clinic and I taxied down there with Jim (who was on the prowl for a SIM card, also).
An intensive hour of treatment by the excellent physio Patrick, pictured below, had me feeling much better. He confirmed I had a disk rotator issue (no idea where that came from) and a scoliosis tendency in the spine which meant the muscles had tightened up under pressure of exertion.
On the positive side he says that after rest I can continue, and has given me a range of daily exercises to do (many of which are the yoga exercises I foolishly stopped doing 6-9 months ago
). Also regular movement whilst in the saddle and regular stops (which fits well with the 200km Serow range).
Our accommodation is very friendly and beautifully located and affordable so will listen to his advice (as well as Jim and SWMBO
) and take it easy for a day or so before we head to Moz.
Yours truly (in the Dublin cap) with expedition chief medical adviser aka Jim Sherry
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In the process of lifting the 800 GS from the mud (albeit with assistance) I seem to have put my back out so yesterday was a very uncomfortable day for me. The km long driveway to our lodge was quite tricky so I had no great enthusiasm for going outagain for dinner and tackling it in the dark.
Fortunately the lodge rustled up an excellent dinner.
But when I looked at myself I saw I was bent sideways and the back feeling very tight.
The prospect of another day in the saddle today was unappealing and this morning I listened to the wise counsel of Drumacoon Lad and sought a physio.
This was made easier because the chap at the only other occupied table at breakfast turned out to be one of the lodge owner family (who go back to the Ward family of N Ireland some generations ago, who emigrated to Zambia and then to Swazi).
He quickly made me a 10h00 appointment at the Mbabane Clinic and I taxied down there with Jim (who was on the prowl for a SIM card, also).
An intensive hour of treatment by the excellent physio Patrick, pictured below, had me feeling much better. He confirmed I had a disk rotator issue (no idea where that came from) and a scoliosis tendency in the spine which meant the muscles had tightened up under pressure of exertion.
On the positive side he says that after rest I can continue, and has given me a range of daily exercises to do (many of which are the yoga exercises I foolishly stopped doing 6-9 months ago
). Also regular movement whilst in the saddle and regular stops (which fits well with the 200km Serow range).Our accommodation is very friendly and beautifully located and affordable so will listen to his advice (as well as Jim and SWMBO
) and take it easy for a day or so before we head to Moz.
Yours truly (in the Dublin cap) with expedition chief medical adviser aka Jim Sherry
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ouch! Glad you're on the mend Simon. I look forward to the updates each day!
Richard: much appreciated, thanks! The updates will follow….once I have done all my exercises .
Fortunately we are in a pleasant spot and took a Forest walk after a cold water swim (got to keep moving!!).
Lots of eucalyptus trees (I think) and intriguing birdsong.
Very friendly people in Swazi, and a certain sense of style evident at the Clinic this morning (love the green coat!).
A couple of reflections on the past few days:
Jim’s Yamaha XT250 and my 800GS had identical fuel consumption yesterday of 30kms/litre (we filled up simultaneously several times). An interesting illustration of the efficiency of a more modern liquid cooled twin vs the air cooled XT single, plus the effect a hilly and windy ride at relatively fast speed (for it).
This afternoon we took the opportunity to clean and lube the chain (on the GS) and tension the XT chain. I need to find a garage with a 21mm wrench to do my chain which is new and starting to loosen up. Both bikes are good for oil and showing signs of recent oil changes.
Tyres good on each bike, or at least 3 of the 4….the Anakee Adventure on the rear of mine has shown itself as useful as a chocolate teapot
when there’s any wet mud. However in Moz I think the challenge is more likely to be sand where this should, I hope, be less of an issue.
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.Fortunately we are in a pleasant spot and took a Forest walk after a cold water swim (got to keep moving!!).
Lots of eucalyptus trees (I think) and intriguing birdsong.
Very friendly people in Swazi, and a certain sense of style evident at the Clinic this morning (love the green coat!).
A couple of reflections on the past few days:
Jim’s Yamaha XT250 and my 800GS had identical fuel consumption yesterday of 30kms/litre (we filled up simultaneously several times). An interesting illustration of the efficiency of a more modern liquid cooled twin vs the air cooled XT single, plus the effect a hilly and windy ride at relatively fast speed (for it).
This afternoon we took the opportunity to clean and lube the chain (on the GS) and tension the XT chain. I need to find a garage with a 21mm wrench to do my chain which is new and starting to loosen up. Both bikes are good for oil and showing signs of recent oil changes.
Tyres good on each bike, or at least 3 of the 4….the Anakee Adventure on the rear of mine has shown itself as useful as a chocolate teapot
when there’s any wet mud. However in Moz I think the challenge is more likely to be sand where this should, I hope, be less of an issue.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you are heading to Maputo you'll probably pass through a low lying delta.
Bush in the road means hazard up ahead
Bush in the road means hazard up ahead
Yes those do look like eucalyptus ( blue gums locally).
I think I am right in saying they are indigenous to Oz rather than SA and were originally introduced because they are fast growing and made good pit props for the mining industry.
I think I am right in saying they are indigenous to Oz rather than SA and were originally introduced because they are fast growing and made good pit props for the mining industry.
Thanks for the comments guys, yes Paul we visited the eucalyptus again today.
Although we rested up again today it seemed quite busy. Simon started the day early with a swim in the chilly pool, I held the towel for him when he got back. After breakfast we worked on the bikes, adjusting Simons chain and putting a bit more air in my tyres. We enjoyed our walk in the eucalyptus forest yesterday and went for a longer walk today.
We spotted these small fungi on a dead log and later the mushroom fungus.
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Although we rested up again today it seemed quite busy. Simon started the day early with a swim in the chilly pool, I held the towel for him when he got back. After breakfast we worked on the bikes, adjusting Simons chain and putting a bit more air in my tyres. We enjoyed our walk in the eucalyptus forest yesterday and went for a longer walk today.
We spotted these small fungi on a dead log and later the mushroom fungus.
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Chain adjustment was aided by a size 24 wrench (which we didn’t have) from Gary who runs a little car workshop at the lodge…which also has a woodworking shop next to it…he shows me planks of jacaranda as well as eucalyptus, from both of which he made furniture.
Gary’s treasure chest of tools, in an old fishing box
The woodworks
We definitely landed at the right place for practical assistance
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Gary’s treasure chest of tools, in an old fishing box
The woodworks
We definitely landed at the right place for practical assistance
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On the way back we spotted these little fruit by the river. All suggestions as to what they are welcome!
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This river appeared and sounded quite tranquil but there was evidence it could turn into a torrent after a heavy storm.
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On the way back to the hotel we spotted this cylindrical palm leaf beginning to unfurl.
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While Simon did another session of exercises and worked on our route into Mozambique, I applied myself to spotting the birds in the garden. It wasn't easy, harder than Simon's exercises and the route planning, but I persevered and managed to get four photos. I then tried to identify them, with varying degrees of certainty, so here goes.
Firstly this appears to be a Dark-capped Bulbul.
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Firstly this appears to be a Dark-capped Bulbul.
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I believe this one is a Kurrichane Thrush.
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This could be a Bearded Scrub Robin?
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There is a possibility that this is a Familiar Chat?
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However, I'm absolutely certain this is a loosened up Simon.
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