Goldwing DCT 2020 Starting Issue

boxer

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If any of you Goldwing owners have encountered this I'd be very interested to know the outcome.

Bike is 2020 DCT bagger and refuses to start.

Dash lights normally and all switches [screen, horn, indicators etc], function as per normal.
Sidestand graphic accurately and promptly indicates sidestand position.
Display indicates bike in neutral.
Using either of the two normal start methods and even the emergency code input all produce the same non start condition.
Alarm functions as it should [as far as I'm aware].

The bike was washed the day before the fault was discovered though I'm careful to avoid water to handlebar area.
Battery has been on charger and is fully charged with tight and clean terminals.
Handlebar kill switch is never used.

Depressing the start switch does nothing at all.

Thanks
 
Try holding the brake lever in whilst starting. If you stopped it whilst still in gear it sometimes doesn’t drop into neutral so it needs brakes on to start.
 
Using only the front brake and start button is one of the two normal ways to start. I’ve just tried starting with both brake levers depressed and still no joy. Thanks anyway:thumb
 
Try holding the brake lever in whilst starting. If you stopped it whilst still in gear it sometimes doesn’t drop into neutral so it needs brakes on to start.

Sounds likely, but doesn't this condition show a brake lever being pulled on the lower part of the screen as a prompt?

Sorry, I don't speak from experience, just from chatting with owners/sales.

I understand there is also a DCT Initialization procedure, if/when the system gets confused, involving pressing various buttons in a set sequence which, eventually, gets the bike back into neutral in tour mode after various bangs, clicks & crunches. If this isn't shown in the rider's handbook, then I'm sure it will be on one of the GW forums.
 
Dr. Google just found it for me; hope it helps: -

DCT Initialization:
Hold down the D button, then turn on the ignition.
When the mill light goes out, release the D. (usually about 2-3 seconds)
Press this sequence: D, D, N, D, N.
Start the bike. (It will clink and clunk a bit while it goes through the process - It's OK!)
When TOUR is displayed the process is complete.
 
Dr. Google just found it for me; hope it helps: -

DCT Initialization:
Hold down the D button, then turn on the ignition.
When the mill light goes out, release the D. (usually about 2-3 seconds)
Press this sequence: D, D, N, D, N.
Start the bike. (It will clink and clunk a bit while it goes through the process - It's OK!)
When TOUR is displayed the process is complete.

This re initialises the clutch. I don’t think it’s to do with starting.
 
Thanks, but I’m not sure how that relates to my problem. I’ll keep the suggestion in mind but getting to the start engine part of the sequence and failing to start sounds worrying.

I do often forget to select neutral before turning off, could be a confused sensor or something giving a Neutral light whilst bike in gear:nenau. I’ll hit google with that angle. Thanks.

The last start up was followed by pretty stern use of the reverse function. I think I read one of the two clutches is used for each walking function.
 
I'm pretty sure I read about one of the American owners on the facebook 2018-2023 Goldwing page had a similar problem. I'll try and find it again but I'm pretty sure he sorted it by wheeling the bike backwards for say 10 yards. His problem was also caused by switching the bike off whilst in "drive" if I remember correctly.

I have done this myself....once.... and it did make the bike scratch it's head a bit when it came to re starting. I just switched the ignition on and off about half a dozen times and in my case it sorted it.
 
Here you go boxer...I have simply cut and pasted....I hope this helps you


**She Lights Up - But Won’t Start**
(This applies to manual and DCT bikes)
This has come up a few times lately, so I thought I would post the solution here.
Here is the scenario: You turn the ignition to “on”. All the lights come on, everything looks normal, but she won’t start. As in, you push the start button and NOTHING happens. No clicking, no dulling of the lights… nothing happens. (Clicking or dulling of the lights or any indication it’s trying to start you most likely have a battery (or some other) issue.)
Do this:
1) Kick Stand Up
2) Ignition “on”
a. If the dash lights up the problem is NOT the FOB
3) Confirm you are in Neutral
a. If DCT and you are not in Neutral push her forward and back a bit.
4) Turn the ignition “off” and let it go
5) Turn the ignition switch to Off/Acc/Lock and HOLD IT THERE for 10-15 seconds
a. This does a system reset
b. After the hold just release (leave the bike off)
c. Don’t worry if the steering lock engaged – and don’t worry if you get an error beep saying the steering didn’t lock
6) Hold in the front brake
a. Manual bikes, hold in the clutch
7) Push AND HOLD DOWN the start button
a. This will turn on the ignition, unlock the steering (if it locked) and start the bike
b. You should still be holding in the brake/clutch until she starts
�� Go for a ride
PS: If this didn’t work the next thing to blame is your bike’s battery. Loose cable? Battery dead/dying?
PSS: This is NOT the same problem as the “****” showing on the dash of the DCT when it starts and won’t go into gear. We have a separate post to address this issue (it’s in “Featured” posts too).
Hope this helps a few of you…
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

Big Si - My googling failed to find your second fix, I’ll try it later.

Amongst the many starting issues google uncovered the fault most closely matching my symptoms indicated a malfunctioning start button on the handlebar cluster.
 
Amongst the many starting issues google uncovered the fault most closely matching my symptoms indicated a malfunctioning start button on the handlebar cluster.

I can but concur - seems there have been a few that manage to hide from diagnostic analysis when plugged in, just to confuse the dealer techs.

With most bikes these days, the starter switch talks to a relay, which then instructs the starter relay to activate the starter, which in turn uses a sprag clutch system on the GW to turn the engine. Thus it should be possible to trick the relay with a jumper to check out the switch diagnosis, as many have with the more common GS/K16 starter switch failures.
 
Fixed! Simply pushed the bike back a measured 10yds.

TBH, I too read the FB post Big Si refers to, and it was one of the first things I tried, pushing it back, but it wasn't the full 10yds. I recall the FB rider ran out of fuel when he shut off in drive mode.

So lessons learn are, don't switch off in drive and make sure you use the full 10yds - it appears the distance may be critical.

Thanks everyone for all the help.:beerjug:
 
Fixed! Simply pushed the bike back a measured 10yds.

TBH, I too read the FB post Big Si refers to, and it was one of the first things I tried, pushing it back, but it wasn't the full 10yds. I recall the FB rider ran out of fuel when he shut off in drive mode.

So lessons learn are, don't switch off in drive and make sure you use the full 10yds - it appears the distance may be critical.

Thanks everyone for all the help.:beerjug:

There also seems to be a consensus of opinion that for best results the bike should be switched on & off with the ignition knob only....and not the kill switch (which confuses the bikes brain apparently:nenau )

Glad to hear you are back on the road. :thumb
 
Good to hear you are sorted.

However I would be interested to have some commentary from Mr. Honda. Seems there is something of a software glitch within the starting parameters. Park somewhere busy/congested & that push backwards could be a challenge.

Like Big Si, I also see other riders talking of avoiding the kill switch as it somehow confuses the ECU, which makes no sense. Why won't the system reset I wonder.

Just to be clear, I am looking at joining the GW ranks for next season, hence my interest in following this thread.
 
What an excellent thread - just imagine this problem cropping up somewhere away from a computer and not knowing this "fix". Thanks to all for your contributions.
 
Fixed! Simply pushed the bike back a measured 10yds.

TBH, I too read the FB post Big Si refers to, and it was one of the first things I tried, pushing it back, but it wasn't the full 10yds. I recall the FB rider ran out of fuel when he shut off in drive mode.

So lessons learn are, don't switch off in drive and make sure you use the full 10yds - it appears the distance may be critical.

Thanks everyone for all the help.:beerjug:

Great result. :)
 
So lessons learn are, don't switch off in drive and make sure you use the full 10yds - it appears the distance may be critical.

It would seem the phrase "whole 9 yards" needs updating to "whole 10 yards" :augie

Pleased you got it sorted.
 


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