Help! Converting EU e-bike hydraulic brakes to UK configuration

Rustle

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Just bought an e-bike on-line on a deal (brand new bike but got it from a clearance sale with no comeback on this type of "problem") and the hydraulic disc brakes are EU style ie front brake on left, rear on right of the handlebars. I could switch the entire levers over but the reservoirs would be upside down ie underneath the brake lever. Since they are such small capacity would this be a problem? The only other solution is to remove the hydraulic hoses from the lever reservoirs and swap them over and bleed both brakes (never bled bicycle brakes before so a little unsure about this).

Leaving things as they are is also a plan. Won't take long to get used to the reversed layout but swapping to another of my bikes might be confusing.

Any comments/ideas gratefully received. Thanks.
 
I'd switch the pipes over, easier to do and bleeding should be fine - they're no trickier than a Motorbikes.
 
Agreed, swap the hoses over & bleed. Plenty of tutorials online if you haven't done it before. Check what fluid your brakes need, some use mineral oil, others DOT brake fluid. epicbleedsolutions.com sell everything you need.:thumb
 
What make is the brake? (couldn't resist.... Feck that's another one....)

Magura brakes can be any way up as there's typically no reservoir as such.
 
Rustle, I would certainly try riding it for a while. In most cases when riding a pushbike you apply both brakes at once. Your most important brake clearly is the front which ordinarily you can bring on harder. If you anchor up on the right ( rear) by mistake you will feel the rear lock up and will naturally reduce pressure on both.

If you want belt and braces swap the hoses at the levers, if you are not confident in bleeding a local bike shop will probably do it for under £25.
 
All fair points Steve, but unless that's the only 2 wheeler he's ever going to ride, personally I strongly believe in training the brain one way only.

2 years ago I was racing a mate down a steep Dolomite descent having a bit if fun. I overcooked it into a hairpin and because it was a locally hired bike, and 'back to front', I locked up the rear and in that moment of huge-eyeball panic could not process which brake to release. 55 years of learning that the right lever works the front brake is hard to unlearn. So I held hard onto the right lever, releasing the left....100% the wrong thing to do.
 
All fair points Steve, but unless that's the only 2 wheeler he's ever going to ride, personally I strongly believe in training the brain one way only.

2 years ago I was racing a mate down a steep Dolomite descent having a bit if fun. I overcooked it into a hairpin and because it was a locally hired bike, and 'back to front', I locked up the rear and in that moment of huge-eyeball panic could not process which brake to release. 55 years of learning that the right lever works the front brake is hard to unlearn. So I held hard onto the right lever, releasing the left....100% the wrong thing to do.
Hired a downhill bike in Andorra with reversed levers. Found it suicidal when trying steep drops. Could not modulate the pressures on each end with same precision as I was used to.
Swap pipes. Internal diameters are very tiny, so fluid just sits at orifices without dribbling out, and they generally work with out bleeding. Afterwards. if you need to bleed, use a suitable syringe and reverse bleed. Thus, take filler screw out of master cylinder. Fill Syringe with fluid, turn it upside down and expel all trapped air. Go to caliper and remove bleed screw. Shove taper of syringe into hole and push plunger. You will need to only displace 1 or 2 ccs to bleed.
Be careful not to get brake fluid onto either disc or pads.
 
Swap pipes. Internal diameters are very tiny, so fluid just sits at orifices without dribbling out, and they generally work with out bleeding.

+1...:thumb2

I've even shortened hoses without bleeding through.

HOWEVER - We are dealing with brakes here. Anyone not 100% confident in messing with their brakes should get a bike shop to sort them. This should be a simple and inexpensive job.
 
Folks, these are all useful and helpful points. I was out today for the 1st time and I agree that both brakes tend to be used together and on the "rough" it's not a problem. I also agree that I could learn how to use them as they are and, I further agree that a lifetime (I'm nearly 68 so it's getting close to a lifetime haha!) of UK configuration and the muscle memory associated with that suggests that a conversion to UK layout would be safer in extremis. I'll make enquiries at my, usually very helpful, local bike shop. My neighbour bought the same bike from them a fortnight ago ((UK spec) and having tried his I decided to get the same. As I said I got a mad, better deal on an on-line clearance deal (£700 cheaper!) so perhaps my bike shop will ........ eh, encourage me to leave forthwith for not buying from them. We'll see.

Thank you all again for your guidance and recommendations.
 
I had the exact same issue on my ktm ebike and the seller refused to swap the lines over , saying air would get into the system blah blah blah excuses
Then one day , sadly after a few years ,it dawned on me that I could VERY SIMPLY swap the units over . i.e. no need to disconnect any brake lines .
I suggest have a closer look
 
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