New Xcountry owner here. Recent purchase of very tidy looking bike with patchy service history so planning weekend self service. Oil, filters, plugs, etc. Handbook says 15W40 oil and I can only find Mobil in that I'm sure Mobil is fine but just wondering what else is out there and what others use. Any other recommendations from owners? Far more availability in 15W50 if that's OK?.
Engine Oil
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Check the manual but 15w50 seems fine
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/lubr...1b6d2b38&type_name=G+650+Xcountry+(2007-2010)
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/lubr...1b6d2b38&type_name=G+650+Xcountry+(2007-2010)
does it not say to use 10w/40 as an alternative? Plenty of 10w/40 options including Halfords own make.
I just selected an X-country manual at random from the BMW website and it suggests the 15W/40 for warmer climes, where warmer is over -10C
I just selected an X-country manual at random from the BMW website and it suggests the 15W/40 for warmer climes, where warmer is over -10C
Normally use 10/40 in my g650x bikes. Providing quality oil, should be fine
Thanks all. Just did some t’internet research and 15W refers to flow/viscosity at lower temps. 15W good down to -25 and 10W good down to -30. As I’m unlikely to be out in anything less than +10 I think I’ll be ok with 15W50. The 50 maintains viscosity to higher temp than 40.
Silolene has seen my X Country to 50,000 miles, trouble free. I use it in both the Country and the Challenge. Reasonably priced and I change every 5000 miles, because if the speedo has a 5 or 0 on the thousands, it needs an oil and filter change! Don't bother getting a K&N washable air filter, the paper ones are only a tenner and can be gently blown out so last 20,000 miles in this country no problem.
While you are doing your service, change the FUEL filter. If you are on facebook, join the G650 X Country page, on there I have done a step-by-step, with pictures, on how to change the fuel filter (Mahle 315 from memory - check my number!) I bet yours is dated 2006! Dealers do not change the fuel filter.
Fuel filter is under the seat, housed under the 'big circle' that is looking at you when you take the seat off.
Undo the electric plug carefully.
Undo the 2 screws that hold the fuel line on to the 'lid' - DO NOT try to get the fuel line off the fitting, they are brittle and prone to break, the 2 self tappers are a much easier and failsafe way of removing the fuel line.
Tap the big ring gently to get it started unscrewing. I use an extension bar as a drift. Once you have it started 1/3rd of a turn it will unscrew by hand.
The ring lifts off and the whole lid comes out, there is a rubber sealing ring too.
Take the whole lot out.
Undo the 2 earth wires on the bracket.
Undo the fuel pipe clamp - I replaced with an 8-13mm screw up clamp ring (Jubilee ring)
The fuel filter just wriggles out with gentle force.
Stick new filter in the hole... replace everything. Jobs a goodun. I have never heard from anyone doing it themselves finding a filter not aligned with their date of build....
While you are doing your service, change the FUEL filter. If you are on facebook, join the G650 X Country page, on there I have done a step-by-step, with pictures, on how to change the fuel filter (Mahle 315 from memory - check my number!) I bet yours is dated 2006! Dealers do not change the fuel filter.
Fuel filter is under the seat, housed under the 'big circle' that is looking at you when you take the seat off.
Undo the electric plug carefully.
Undo the 2 screws that hold the fuel line on to the 'lid' - DO NOT try to get the fuel line off the fitting, they are brittle and prone to break, the 2 self tappers are a much easier and failsafe way of removing the fuel line.
Tap the big ring gently to get it started unscrewing. I use an extension bar as a drift. Once you have it started 1/3rd of a turn it will unscrew by hand.
The ring lifts off and the whole lid comes out, there is a rubber sealing ring too.
Take the whole lot out.
Undo the 2 earth wires on the bracket.
Undo the fuel pipe clamp - I replaced with an 8-13mm screw up clamp ring (Jubilee ring)
The fuel filter just wriggles out with gentle force.
Stick new filter in the hole... replace everything. Jobs a goodun. I have never heard from anyone doing it themselves finding a filter not aligned with their date of build....
Many thanks King Rat - have now added the 'Fuel Filter' to my list. I'll confirm original fuel filter date when I've done it - bike is March 2007 on 07 registration. now just over 10,000 miles recorded and last owner just for one year and selling to 'upgrade' to a Triumph 800 Triple big trail style thing. Running Conti Trail Attack 3 which judging by your tyre reports will still have at least 20,000 miles in 'em! I'll check date on sidewall while I'm at it. I'm following the Old Mechanic on YouTube for my 'how to' lessons.
Think I did join Xcountry group on FB - will check.
Think I did join Xcountry group on FB - will check.
Those Contis are supposed to be superb on our X bikes. Andrew Standley, owner of Foley Motorcycles in Fenton (Stoke-on-Trent) has had one from it being ex demo, he runs them on his and was over on the dges on his way home after fitting they gave him that much confidence. He was trained to ride outrider in the Services, so can wring a motorbike a bit. He is way better than me. He is a useful workshop too, but maybe not for someone in London!
Workshop in Stoke is a bit far for me! Just getting bits together for my planned service - for the new Fuel Filter I cant find an 8mm-13mm Jubilee clip - only 9.5mm-12mm. Will that do the job? Next size is 11mm-16mm. Fuel filter arrived, along with oil (silkolene 10W40 semi synth) and filter, and air filter, plugs etc. Just need to check I've got all the tools I'll need.
Planning to put on 6m tax from 1st April - fair weather rider me. Contis will last for many years
Planning to put on 6m tax from 1st April - fair weather rider me. Contis will last for many years
I think it is 9.5-12, but the fuel hose outer diameter is what you need to know.... it might be 13mm! I bought a couple while I was at it. I can have a decko later.
Have you done your oil and filter yet? I have just done mine and a series of pictures to show newcomers how to go about it... might be just too late! I am going to try and do a slide show/video with them.
If I am in time, don't try to put 2.3 litres of oil in at once! It has to be added in stages because the oil tank only holds about 1.5 litres and then it overflows... a measuring jug is useful. I am going to get one one day. Otherwise an old 2 litre or 1 litre oil bottle is another way of doing it.
When you have drained the sump, I leave it an hour or so because the filter housing drains then too. Then the oil tank, then done the filter... put everything back in its respective hole it is time to put the oil in. You do this through the dipstick hole, so a funnel is handy.
Add 1 litre and a bit without overflowing the tank. I use me eyes and when the oil level starts to get close to the neck, I stop. Put the dipstick back in and screw down. Now you need trust! You have to get the oil pump to draw oil from the tank down into the sump and around the system. Turn on the ignition, let it go through the motions, then press the starter, and let go just before she fires. Leave it a second or two and do it again. Do this 3 or 4 times. That should have put some oil around the place and given you some room in the tank... so top it up again and this time start the bike and let it run for about 15 seconds, there is plenty of oil to do this. Now you can add the last bit, around 250cc. Go for a run to get her up to temperature, when you get back check the level and add the little you might need to, or drain off through the oil tank drain the little you might have overfilled with. It is only about 2.3 litres including the oil filter housing.
If I am in time, don't try to put 2.3 litres of oil in at once! It has to be added in stages because the oil tank only holds about 1.5 litres and then it overflows... a measuring jug is useful. I am going to get one one day. Otherwise an old 2 litre or 1 litre oil bottle is another way of doing it.
When you have drained the sump, I leave it an hour or so because the filter housing drains then too. Then the oil tank, then done the filter... put everything back in its respective hole it is time to put the oil in. You do this through the dipstick hole, so a funnel is handy.
Add 1 litre and a bit without overflowing the tank. I use me eyes and when the oil level starts to get close to the neck, I stop. Put the dipstick back in and screw down. Now you need trust! You have to get the oil pump to draw oil from the tank down into the sump and around the system. Turn on the ignition, let it go through the motions, then press the starter, and let go just before she fires. Leave it a second or two and do it again. Do this 3 or 4 times. That should have put some oil around the place and given you some room in the tank... so top it up again and this time start the bike and let it run for about 15 seconds, there is plenty of oil to do this. Now you can add the last bit, around 250cc. Go for a run to get her up to temperature, when you get back check the level and add the little you might need to, or drain off through the oil tank drain the little you might have overfilled with. It is only about 2.3 litres including the oil filter housing.
Thanks. I have followed your slide show for oil and filter. Started my strip down to get to the various bits and pieces last night - all in the kitchen (wife away!). So far one missing bodywork bolt, and probably a few more to discover. Plan is to do oil and filter tonight - thinking I need to run her up to temp first then drop the oil, so not pulling battery etc until I've done oil. Need a piece of 'ose (not hoes, 'ose) for the oil bleed nipple - bit I had lying around is too big. I think your slide show says 7mm ID 'ose? Then I'll pull battery and the rest of the airbox and get down to the plugs. Is a special BMW (or other) puller needed? Is there a particular technique to get coils off?
Then clean the throttle body and look for the idle valve and clean that too (hoping to resolve my stalling problem). I've tried the throttle reset procedure and will fire her up and leave to get up to temp later so maybe idle will be fine now. Need to sort out Scottoiler not working - think its the vacuum pipe either kinked or detached so can have a look with all the gubbins off. Seems sound but seems last owner for 1 year didn't give her much love.
Then clean the throttle body and look for the idle valve and clean that too (hoping to resolve my stalling problem). I've tried the throttle reset procedure and will fire her up and leave to get up to temp later so maybe idle will be fine now. Need to sort out Scottoiler not working - think its the vacuum pipe either kinked or detached so can have a look with all the gubbins off. Seems sound but seems last owner for 1 year didn't give her much love.
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