Still Biking in Brazil

Tiffany

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As I sat there in that black hole gripping onto Thelma and sensing rather than seeing the dark shapes moving around me, all I could do was follow the lights of Joao`s bike (1150GS) accelerating away in front of me and wonder what on earth I was doing here.
Here was one of the hellholes of Sao Paulo - second largest city in the World and seemingly full of these dark tunnels. I had entered this particular one with my sunglasses still on (not a good move to make), the lighting in the tunnel was non-existent and all the cars were black and without lights - hence the surreal effect.
I had been given quite a send-off by the BMW shop and Club in town - I haven`t seen so many people on Beemers since the BMF Show in England last year. I managed to to survive the tunnels and was soon on my way to Rio - having been safely led out of the city by Joao - a local rider.
Thelma`s gearbox seal had been replaced and she was now snorkel-less and looking good. My next stop was Rio.
Seeing Rio by bike was great - can`t go wrong if I just follow the beach roads up and down the city I thought - hmmmm, that was until Sunday when all of those beach roads become one way, which led to a few tricky moments.
I don´t think the taxi drivers of Rio have ever seen a woman on a big bike before - especially one who was determined to make them a bit more respectful of bikes!
After a few days of tyre searching and beach life at Copacabana and Ipanema, where the locals were very impressed with Thelma and I quickly got into the local habit of just parking anywhere on the pavement; I reluctantly continued on my way - it is 5000 kms along the coastline to Belem and the mouth of the Amazon in the north of Brazil.
I reached Porto Seguro, where, by chance, there was a Bike Show - I was warmly welcomed as Star Guest - even though I did confess that I had no idea it was all taking place. I was in search of camping space - but was honoured to be given a bed in one of the organiser`s houses - I think they were appalled that their star guest would be camping.
A Bike Show in Brazil is very much a different affair from a British one -mainly because "nice bikes" ie big ones are only affordable by the top 5% of the income bracket - to give you an idea of the costs involved, the minimum wage has just been raised to 30 pence an hour and the 1150 GS costs 18 000 pounds- this meant I was rubbing shoulders with the top end of society. - depending on your point of view about Investment Bankers, judges and Chiefs of Police.
The highlight was the presentation of a trophy late on Saturday night when I was called up on stage - somewhat carried away with the occasion I waved my trophy above my head and launched into a thank you speech in my still faltering Portuguese - once everyone had got over the shock that a woman had won the furthest-travelled trophy I received a round of applause and cheers.

From there I went to the beaches at Itacare (where I bumped into another GSer - that´s on another thread to save his blushes)- white sand, coconut palms, clear sea and cocktails at sunset- and then when I left I had a horrible day where my shock absorber fell off. OK, slight exaggeration, the bolt holding it sheared off and Thelma looked like she was in pieces. Naturally this occurred on an appallingly bad dirt track in the middle of nowhere, humid jungle all around me - the ground was so uneven that I couldn`t even put my side-stand down. Using a complicated combination of holding Thelma up with one hand whilst unlocking and removing a pannier with the other hand, I manoeuvred Thelma onto her side resting on the pannier (she weighs almost 300 kg with the luggage!)- a passing cyclist was commandeered into helping me to clout the shock absorber back into position - with just a half-inch of snapped bolt holding it in place I gingerly proceeded. It fell off twice more before I managed to reach tarmac and then a bike workshop - four hours to cover 30 miles, I don`t think I have ever been so terrified in my life.
I am currently in Salvador - a beautiful colonial city and continuing northwards - loving the laid-back attitude of the Brazillians and the friendliness that I encounter everywhere.
:beerjug:
 


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