Adjusting rocker end float, and valve clearances

Excellent write up. I have had my GS a whole week and it is all a learning curve for me - airhead before, so all these extra bits are a new experiance :eek:

Plain and simple instructions - that's what I like.

keep it up!
 
Adjusted my valve clearances many times - but never the end float! what have I been missing? Thank you Neil for your time and expertise in putting this up............. Should soon be running more sweetly that ever................
 
This is a link to a video made for BMW training technicians

Click training
Then click video services procedure and finally RV4 Service
http://www.bmwmc.net

It does exactly what steptoe says but with moving pictures.
I have just set the end float and now have a really quiet engine

I found this video link elsewhere on this site but thought it may be helpful here in the font.
 
A couple of Questions. 1. Which Engine is this procedure and Clearances applicable to. 2. The thought of loosening off one of the Cylinder Head Nuts (as required for End Float Adjustment) and then re-torqueing dosen't sound good to me. Is that why most Workshops leave "as is" if the clearance is within Tolerance ?.
Thanks.
 
Mike Tee said:
A couple of Questions. 1. Which Engine is this procedure and Clearances applicable to. 2. The thought of loosening off one of the Cylinder Head Nuts (as required for End Float Adjustment) and then re-torqueing dosen't sound good to me. Is that why most Workshops leave "as is" if the clearance is within Tolerance ?.
Thanks.
Click to expand...


Question 1) The flat twin engines

Question 2) Don't worry so much about life. Stop reading the internet and take your bike to a dealer, it doesn't sound like your ready for bike DIY just yet .
 
Steptoe said:
Question 1) The flat twin engines

Question 2) Don't worry so much about life. Stop reading the internet and take your bike to a dealer, it doesn't sound like your ready for bike DIY just yet .
Click to expand...

The Wise one has Spoken..
His words are the truth ..:bow
 
Steptoe said:
Question 1) The flat twin engines

Question 2) Don't worry so much about life. Stop reading the internet and take your bike to a dealer, it doesn't sound like your ready for bike DIY just yet .
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Steptoe, you just reminded me why I previously stopped taking part in this Forum. Ar------- like you.
 
Mike Tee said:
Thanks for that Steptoe, you just reminded me why I previously stopped taking part in this Forum. Ar------- like you.
Click to expand...

FFS !! get a sense of Humour transplant..
OR Join BMWOWNERS club, you'll fit right in with them sad bastards..

You think that if they adjust them on your BMW DEALER service they worry about the retorque of one head stud ??
FFS it's obvious you've never worked at a Car or Bike dealership
NOPE they don't do it 'cos it's a fixed price service and it saves time and more money for them NOT to do it if they can get away with it "being in Tolerance"

Doubting or asking idiotic questions here, means you get flamed,:blast you either laugh it off :rollor F uck off...:forry
Don't think anyone will miss you..

In case you have never noticed before>>
This site run the way the MAJORITY of us want it run..
We are not new Labour or Namby Pamby PC

As I've typed before [ many times]
>>
You No Likee, You F Uckoffeee :pullface
 
Mike Tee said:
Thanks for that Steptoe, you just reminded me why I previously stopped taking part in this Forum. Ar------- like you.
Click to expand...

Aye bye then, your tremendous input to this forum will be sorely missed :thedummy
 
Mike Tee said:
Thanks for that Steptoe, you just reminded me why I previously stopped taking part in this Forum. Ar------- like you.
Click to expand...

Yep spot on ........ Its Arseholes like Steptoe who fill up valuable Forum space with their articles on how to do things, they even have the audacity to post their own photos as well just to compound the problem. Its high time they realised what a privelidge it is for you to address them at all with your mechanical queries. Lets you an me go and set up our own Forum ..... Lets see what could we call it ..... yes I know ..... "Knobheads who know **** all about anything and then get shitty when a deserved sarky remark comes their way".
 
Just re-read this prior to getting the tools out later to try and resolve some running issues :eek::blast

In addition to Neil's great write-up above, it's also well worth reading the Advrider OVAD (Oilhead valve adjustments for dummies) PDF file HERE.....a superb bit of writing that had me laughing out loud several times a few minutes ago...if only all manuals were written so well :D
 
Missing picture?

I've been following these fine instructions and I think there may be a picture missing.

Should there be a picture where it says
Where to adjust the end float
Click to expand...

Seems there are two gaps where the endfloat could be measured - I'm presuming it is at the top of the support bar - am I right
 
stolzy said:
I've been following these fine instructions and I think there may be a picture missing.

Should there be a picture where it says


Seems there are two gaps where the endfloat could be measured - I'm presuming it is at the top of the support bar - am I right
Click to expand...

Here's a simple test for people who can't work without a picture . Measure the gaps at both ends and see if there's any difference . :D
 
That will do nicely.

Cheers for the post Mr Steptoe, was going to do tappets but saw your thread and so will do end float while im at it. I used to be a rocker and my end used to float in the bath, have to keep water shallow these days. ta.:flag
 
helpfull

Fanum said:
Just re-read this prior to getting the tools out later to try and resolve some running issues :eek::blast

In addition to Neil's great write-up above, it's also well worth reading the Advrider OVAD (Oilhead valve adjustments for dummies) PDF file HERE.....a superb bit of writing that had me laughing out loud several times a few minutes ago...if only all manuals were written so well :D
Click to expand...

Found this very good reading, have posted this reply so that i may be able to find it again, seems a lot of work but if you want something running right then thats that.:hide
 
Just read this about the end float. A lot clearer and simpler than a reference to i ahve seen elsewhere. That goes on for 30+ pages and worried the hell out of me. Steptoes way seems a lot easier and more sensible. Something to do the next time the covers are off.

All goodstuff and much appreciated.:beerjug:
 
One other thing. You can tell I am not a mechanic. But why torque the head bolt and then turn it another 180 degrees. Why don't you just turn to the Torque setting?
 
B4ndit said:
One other thing. You can tell I am not a mechanic. But why torque the head bolt and then turn it another 180 degrees. Why don't you just turn to the Torque setting?
Click to expand...

The first stage torque setting is just to seat the fixings and item. The final setting by angle removes the chance of getting differing readings, caused by differing friction on the threads of each fixing.
 
B4ndit said:
One other thing. You can tell I am not a mechanic. But why torque the head bolt and then turn it another 180 degrees. Why don't you just turn to the Torque setting?
Click to expand...

A low(ish) starting torque and then a specific degree of rotation tends to give a more consistent / reliable tension on the bolt, which what you are trying to achieve. You can do the whole thing with a higher torque setting but you are measuring friction rather than bolt tension and hoping the two are linked as the designer intended (cover things in copper slip and you'll find the specified torque can destroy the thread / bolt).

BTW the torque for the Torx bolts holding the bottom bearing cap that adjusts the end float looks a little low to me at 9Nm. You might want to double check that. On the 1200 they are M8 bolts and are set to 18Nm.

Paul
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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