18 - 24 September
Back on the road again. It was a good day. The wind of last week had gone and the skies were blue. We made good progress and made our destination of the day Coffee Bay. To get to Coffee Bay was a detour of about 50 miles of our route. The other towns were we could stop were described by people we met as dodgy.
Not one of the dodgy towns we were told about but the name sets you thinking!...
The route down was great fun. The first time for a more African experience. There hills dotted with little round houses and open lands with a back drop of hills. The sides of the road were filled with people walking home. From Children to adults. Nearly all waved and by the end we were really tired. We found a back packers and were given a round house dorm to just the two of us! Had food at the place but retied early as the ride was long and we had another long day the next day!
Coffee Bay and our dorm...
The alarm went off as normal but we slept in! Still up at eight and after exercising and breakfast we hit the road. After speaking with the owners of the hostel we discovered that our journey was longer than thought and after a blustery start back to the main road.
We made good progress but due to starting a bit late, we were short of our destination and ended up stay in Port Shepstone.
After spending ages looking for B & B and following signs where B & B don’t exist at the end! We finally find one which turns out to be gem!
When we arrived it had started to rain, and the thought of un packing then getting back on the bikes didn’t appeal but the owner offered us her car for the evening? So a quick meal at the Flaming Spur we were in bed.
Up early as usual to complete exercises, we are behind in the walking but we are doing well with the stretching. We are given a good breakfast and we are on the road by 9:30.
We make good time today and travel most of the day at 70-80 mph. There are a few cross winds but nothing of the past few days!
Lunch in a Dungeon!!!
We had planned to reach the Mozambique boarder today but we still have 500 miles + to complete today so we decide to stop short at Isinkwe.
This is rated as the best back packers in South Africa. It is in the heart of Zululand and is set way off the road down a sand track. It is set out as you would assume an African reserve would look, with individual sleeping huts and open pool and bar areas.
The Backpackers.
After the last few days of long miles and being battered by the wind we decided to take a day off and head off for a one day Safari. It was an early start at 5:30 but getting up wasn’t as bad as we had expected! We shared the tour with a French girl and two guys who were living and working on an Island called Relieve!
The journey to the Game reserve was half hour drive in an open topped jeep and at that time of the morning it was cold!!! We arrived as the gates opened at 6 am and headed off into the wilds. All too soon we started to see the animals. Much closer than we thought we could get without scaring them. The morning went well see buffalo, Zebras, numerous impala's before we saw the giraffes and white Rhinos!
There were loads of them and we had plenty of time to take the pictures!
Least we know what we should do....
Male impala...
Female impala...
White Rhino...
Zebra. The red mark on its back is where they bite each other!!!
Giraffes...
And Again...
After lunch we went in search for the big cats and the elephants. We had two really good close encounters with the elephants and several distance sightings. One with an angry bull that we saw the back off chasing another down the road before it stopped and to relieve its frustration it took it out on a tree which it almost demolished.
Elephants...
The late afternoon we were still chasing the elusive cats and the angst was temporarily relived by a troop of baboons which had two youngsters that played in the road for a while. We carried on looking for the cats until dusk.
Baboons at Play...
More Rhino and Buffalo...
The driver thought she saw them on a hill but they disappeared before any of us could spot them! That was it for the day apart from another very cold drive back to the hostel.
Although it was good for the break from riding, getting up at 5:30 for the Safari was not the best for sleep and we went to bed at 8:30! Even with that we didn’t get up until 8 the next day and we both didn’t want to get moving! We finally got on the road for 11 and it didn’t take long to get to the South African and Swaziland border.
We had been told in all the South African shops we could get the duty back on a number of items we purchased. For Mike this was over £100 but for me it was about £40. So we headed off to the duty free zone and after going around a bit we found out customs required a form to be completed. No problem apart from a broker had to fill out the form and they charged £5 per form. A form was required for each purchase from a different store. At this point I gave up as I would walk away with a £5 after paying the broker charges. Mike it still was still worth while! So he got all his forms completed for £20 then he headed to the duty reclaim desk. The guy behind the counter wasn’t the brightest and 45 mins later Mike had the paperwork complete for all of his 7 items. Then the big bombshell. They would send a cheque in TWO months to your home address in Rand!
We had checked in Cape Town and they said the Duty reclaim guys would give you cash or a Visa credit. The paperwork at the Land border was for a Rand credit. Mike wasn’t happy as he would either have to open a Rand account in the UK or get the bank to convert it! The whole process took nearly 2 hrs!
Seems like a Government con to get you to buy goods in their country!
Anyone like an Orange!
After that we went for the usual immigration and exit for the Carnets! The immigration went smoothly but we found that the Carnet would be closed for South Africa at the Swaziland / Mozambique border. Mike questioned the guy hard to ensure this was correct (There is a customs federation for Swaziland, Namibia, Botswana and South Africa) and in the end we came away satisfied that it was OK.
The Swaziland customs were simple at we were on the road again. The plan was to exit Swaziland in the same day. The ride through Swaziland was interesting and a lot more rustic along with road signs recommending we watch out for elephants and lions crossing the road!
We were close to the border but it was 6:30 and getting dark so we decided to find a B & B near the boarder. We had a look around and followed a number of signs for accommodation without luck so we had a quick chat with some soldiers at a check point who said that they didn’t think there was anywhere outside Mancini which was some 50 miles back! We had seen a B & B sign about 20 miles away so we went for that although we had to drive back through the Lion and elephant warning zone!!!
Some how we missed the B & B sign and drove to within 20 miles of Mancini before we found a Motel. The place was OK but more of the South American standard than the South African we had got used too.
The motel did food as well so we had a quick meal then hit the sack for the night!
The next morning we got going early and were both ready for breakfast at 8 am which when the motel said they opened for breakfast. But the motel didn’t open! So disappointed we headed off for the boarder determined to find some thing on the way. But no luck and we decided to carry on over the border. Within a mile of the border we stopped to get some Mozambique currency. Whilst we were talking to the guys Mike started to check for his passport. After much searching of his pockets and bike there was no sign. So we headed for the border to ask them if they would phone the other border and check he hadn’t dropped it there! The border police rang the border and there was no passport. We headed back to a filling station some 10 miles back were we had bought petrol the previous evening. It wasn’t there either. So we filled up again. I paid the bill from my money in my hidden cash belt. Seeing this sparked a memory in Mike and he checked his own and there was the passport! Much relieved!!, at the gas station we saw a shopping complex. There were no signs for a restaurant but thought we’d try anyway. Finally some luck we found some where for breakfast.
Once we had filled up our stomach’s we headed for the boarder. Apart from some queuing the Swaziland boarder was simple and the Carnet stamped. The Mozambique was as simple as well with only a slight delay for the visa as they wouldn’t accept their own currency! Just US Dollars and Rand!
The carnets were stamped without fuss and the insurance paid again delays to get change for their own currency!
We were soon moving and it wasn’t too soon because the temp gauges we had showed the air temp was 35C!
We had been warned that the roads in Mozambique were full of pot holes. The road we had was good with none to be seem. The driving standards were back to the South American levels and the towns looking more South American as well.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/13301299/201504942.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Hmmm, ok, Just the one then as we're driving !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/13301299/201504941.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Look carefull on the top of this petrol tanker.....and you will see a goat. Not the most bizzaire sight we've seen but you get the idea !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/13301299/201504949.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A few cheeky (and very poor boys) we saw on the way to Tofu. Mike bought them a Kit-Kat each but giving it to them proved to be a task in itself as the owners of the gas station didn't want them on the forecourt.
We had intended when we started the day of an ambitious target of Tofu. Some 350 miles on the day. In the end with the delays looking for the passport and custom clearance times we ended up quite short of that but we pushed on until dusk and found a hotel for the night.
John
Back on the road again. It was a good day. The wind of last week had gone and the skies were blue. We made good progress and made our destination of the day Coffee Bay. To get to Coffee Bay was a detour of about 50 miles of our route. The other towns were we could stop were described by people we met as dodgy.
Not one of the dodgy towns we were told about but the name sets you thinking!...
The route down was great fun. The first time for a more African experience. There hills dotted with little round houses and open lands with a back drop of hills. The sides of the road were filled with people walking home. From Children to adults. Nearly all waved and by the end we were really tired. We found a back packers and were given a round house dorm to just the two of us! Had food at the place but retied early as the ride was long and we had another long day the next day!
Coffee Bay and our dorm...
The alarm went off as normal but we slept in! Still up at eight and after exercising and breakfast we hit the road. After speaking with the owners of the hostel we discovered that our journey was longer than thought and after a blustery start back to the main road.
We made good progress but due to starting a bit late, we were short of our destination and ended up stay in Port Shepstone.
After spending ages looking for B & B and following signs where B & B don’t exist at the end! We finally find one which turns out to be gem!
When we arrived it had started to rain, and the thought of un packing then getting back on the bikes didn’t appeal but the owner offered us her car for the evening? So a quick meal at the Flaming Spur we were in bed.
Up early as usual to complete exercises, we are behind in the walking but we are doing well with the stretching. We are given a good breakfast and we are on the road by 9:30.
We make good time today and travel most of the day at 70-80 mph. There are a few cross winds but nothing of the past few days!
Lunch in a Dungeon!!!
We had planned to reach the Mozambique boarder today but we still have 500 miles + to complete today so we decide to stop short at Isinkwe.
This is rated as the best back packers in South Africa. It is in the heart of Zululand and is set way off the road down a sand track. It is set out as you would assume an African reserve would look, with individual sleeping huts and open pool and bar areas.
The Backpackers.
After the last few days of long miles and being battered by the wind we decided to take a day off and head off for a one day Safari. It was an early start at 5:30 but getting up wasn’t as bad as we had expected! We shared the tour with a French girl and two guys who were living and working on an Island called Relieve!
The journey to the Game reserve was half hour drive in an open topped jeep and at that time of the morning it was cold!!! We arrived as the gates opened at 6 am and headed off into the wilds. All too soon we started to see the animals. Much closer than we thought we could get without scaring them. The morning went well see buffalo, Zebras, numerous impala's before we saw the giraffes and white Rhinos!
There were loads of them and we had plenty of time to take the pictures!
Least we know what we should do....
Male impala...
Female impala...
White Rhino...
Zebra. The red mark on its back is where they bite each other!!!
Giraffes...
And Again...
After lunch we went in search for the big cats and the elephants. We had two really good close encounters with the elephants and several distance sightings. One with an angry bull that we saw the back off chasing another down the road before it stopped and to relieve its frustration it took it out on a tree which it almost demolished.
Elephants...
The late afternoon we were still chasing the elusive cats and the angst was temporarily relived by a troop of baboons which had two youngsters that played in the road for a while. We carried on looking for the cats until dusk.
Baboons at Play...
More Rhino and Buffalo...
The driver thought she saw them on a hill but they disappeared before any of us could spot them! That was it for the day apart from another very cold drive back to the hostel.
Although it was good for the break from riding, getting up at 5:30 for the Safari was not the best for sleep and we went to bed at 8:30! Even with that we didn’t get up until 8 the next day and we both didn’t want to get moving! We finally got on the road for 11 and it didn’t take long to get to the South African and Swaziland border.
We had been told in all the South African shops we could get the duty back on a number of items we purchased. For Mike this was over £100 but for me it was about £40. So we headed off to the duty free zone and after going around a bit we found out customs required a form to be completed. No problem apart from a broker had to fill out the form and they charged £5 per form. A form was required for each purchase from a different store. At this point I gave up as I would walk away with a £5 after paying the broker charges. Mike it still was still worth while! So he got all his forms completed for £20 then he headed to the duty reclaim desk. The guy behind the counter wasn’t the brightest and 45 mins later Mike had the paperwork complete for all of his 7 items. Then the big bombshell. They would send a cheque in TWO months to your home address in Rand!
We had checked in Cape Town and they said the Duty reclaim guys would give you cash or a Visa credit. The paperwork at the Land border was for a Rand credit. Mike wasn’t happy as he would either have to open a Rand account in the UK or get the bank to convert it! The whole process took nearly 2 hrs!
Seems like a Government con to get you to buy goods in their country!
Anyone like an Orange!
After that we went for the usual immigration and exit for the Carnets! The immigration went smoothly but we found that the Carnet would be closed for South Africa at the Swaziland / Mozambique border. Mike questioned the guy hard to ensure this was correct (There is a customs federation for Swaziland, Namibia, Botswana and South Africa) and in the end we came away satisfied that it was OK.
The Swaziland customs were simple at we were on the road again. The plan was to exit Swaziland in the same day. The ride through Swaziland was interesting and a lot more rustic along with road signs recommending we watch out for elephants and lions crossing the road!
We were close to the border but it was 6:30 and getting dark so we decided to find a B & B near the boarder. We had a look around and followed a number of signs for accommodation without luck so we had a quick chat with some soldiers at a check point who said that they didn’t think there was anywhere outside Mancini which was some 50 miles back! We had seen a B & B sign about 20 miles away so we went for that although we had to drive back through the Lion and elephant warning zone!!!
Some how we missed the B & B sign and drove to within 20 miles of Mancini before we found a Motel. The place was OK but more of the South American standard than the South African we had got used too.
The motel did food as well so we had a quick meal then hit the sack for the night!
The next morning we got going early and were both ready for breakfast at 8 am which when the motel said they opened for breakfast. But the motel didn’t open! So disappointed we headed off for the boarder determined to find some thing on the way. But no luck and we decided to carry on over the border. Within a mile of the border we stopped to get some Mozambique currency. Whilst we were talking to the guys Mike started to check for his passport. After much searching of his pockets and bike there was no sign. So we headed for the border to ask them if they would phone the other border and check he hadn’t dropped it there! The border police rang the border and there was no passport. We headed back to a filling station some 10 miles back were we had bought petrol the previous evening. It wasn’t there either. So we filled up again. I paid the bill from my money in my hidden cash belt. Seeing this sparked a memory in Mike and he checked his own and there was the passport! Much relieved!!, at the gas station we saw a shopping complex. There were no signs for a restaurant but thought we’d try anyway. Finally some luck we found some where for breakfast.
Once we had filled up our stomach’s we headed for the boarder. Apart from some queuing the Swaziland boarder was simple and the Carnet stamped. The Mozambique was as simple as well with only a slight delay for the visa as they wouldn’t accept their own currency! Just US Dollars and Rand!
The carnets were stamped without fuss and the insurance paid again delays to get change for their own currency!
We were soon moving and it wasn’t too soon because the temp gauges we had showed the air temp was 35C!
We had been warned that the roads in Mozambique were full of pot holes. The road we had was good with none to be seem. The driving standards were back to the South American levels and the towns looking more South American as well.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/13301299/201504942.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Hmmm, ok, Just the one then as we're driving !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/13301299/201504941.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Look carefull on the top of this petrol tanker.....and you will see a goat. Not the most bizzaire sight we've seen but you get the idea !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/13301299/201504949.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A few cheeky (and very poor boys) we saw on the way to Tofu. Mike bought them a Kit-Kat each but giving it to them proved to be a task in itself as the owners of the gas station didn't want them on the forecourt.
We had intended when we started the day of an ambitious target of Tofu. Some 350 miles on the day. In the end with the delays looking for the passport and custom clearance times we ended up quite short of that but we pushed on until dusk and found a hotel for the night.
John
