Seen a post saying its really easy, but can anyone be more specific and tell me how to remove the barrel from an 1150GSA - I need to swap the keys over.
Cheers
L
Cheers
L
removing the ignition barrel
- Thread starter L
- Start date
Why?.. 
what you swapping the key for ..... a screwdriver?
what you swapping the key for ..... a screwdriver?
ok, you asked!
I lost the spare key to my Istanbul Bike, along with my wallet which had business cards and my address. My UK bike obviously has a different key. I can therefore swap the locks over, so if some Turkish scrote decides to come looking for my Turkish bike, the spare key will be useless.
The chances of that same Turkish scrote coming to the UK to find my UK bike, is, I think you will agree, pretty slim!
I lost the spare key to my Istanbul Bike, along with my wallet which had business cards and my address. My UK bike obviously has a different key. I can therefore swap the locks over, so if some Turkish scrote decides to come looking for my Turkish bike, the spare key will be useless.
The chances of that same Turkish scrote coming to the UK to find my UK bike, is, I think you will agree, pretty slim!
It's very easy to remove the whole lock barrel without ANY DAMAGE - If you have the key !!
I recently bought a set of lock tumblers and re-keyed the locks on system panniers and the topbox mount on my K1200GT.
The tumbler kit came with this diagram for the ignition barrel . . . .
From the diagram you can see that there are eight tumblers (four on top, four below), plus an unused slot.
When the correct key is inserted, all tumblers are retracted against their springs, allowing the barrel to turn. The squared end then turns the lock striker to 'unlock'.
All that is holding the lock barrel in is the small sprung plunger at the end opposite the key.
There is a small hole in the switch mounting that allows a straightened paper clip, or similar, to be inserted to depress the plunger. once depressed, the lock barrel comes out with the key still inserted.
I can't remember whether the plunger aligns with the small hole when in the locked or unlocked position (presumably 'unlocked' but the lock wouldn't come out without all tumblers depressed anyway).
Caution . . When replacing the lock, make sure the plunger faces the hole, not 180 degrees out or you will have a real job on your hands next time (DAMHIK
).
And . . If any tumblers fall out when you have the lock out, make sure that when you replace them, all tumblers are FULLY retracted when the key is inserted BEFORE YOU REPLACE THE LOCK, or it won't work and won't come out ('cos its now got the wrong key !).
Hope this helps.
Bob.
The tumbler kit came with this diagram for the ignition barrel . . . .
From the diagram you can see that there are eight tumblers (four on top, four below), plus an unused slot.
When the correct key is inserted, all tumblers are retracted against their springs, allowing the barrel to turn. The squared end then turns the lock striker to 'unlock'.
All that is holding the lock barrel in is the small sprung plunger at the end opposite the key.
There is a small hole in the switch mounting that allows a straightened paper clip, or similar, to be inserted to depress the plunger. once depressed, the lock barrel comes out with the key still inserted.
I can't remember whether the plunger aligns with the small hole when in the locked or unlocked position (presumably 'unlocked' but the lock wouldn't come out without all tumblers depressed anyway).
Caution . . When replacing the lock, make sure the plunger faces the hole, not 180 degrees out or you will have a real job on your hands next time (DAMHIK
).And . . If any tumblers fall out when you have the lock out, make sure that when you replace them, all tumblers are FULLY retracted when the key is inserted BEFORE YOU REPLACE THE LOCK, or it won't work and won't come out ('cos its now got the wrong key !).
Hope this helps.
Bob.
Last edited:
greggs
Registered user
Removing the barrel
According to a very knowledgeable fellow ( you just ask him ), who gave us a guided tour of his 1100GS, removing the barrel is dead easy.
As you look at the barrel from the riders position, at about 3 o'clock, about 5/8ths of an inch up from the bottom of the assembly you will find a small screw with a dob of red paint on it.
Using a fine flat tip screw driver, remove the screw and the barrel should drop out into your hand. Unplug the wires from the loom.
To fit the new barrel reverse the process.
1100's and 1150's have the same set up with the barrels.
That should do the trick
cheers
gregGS
According to a very knowledgeable fellow ( you just ask him ), who gave us a guided tour of his 1100GS, removing the barrel is dead easy.
As you look at the barrel from the riders position, at about 3 o'clock, about 5/8ths of an inch up from the bottom of the assembly you will find a small screw with a dob of red paint on it.
Using a fine flat tip screw driver, remove the screw and the barrel should drop out into your hand. Unplug the wires from the loom.
To fit the new barrel reverse the process.
1100's and 1150's have the same set up with the barrels.
That should do the trick
cheers
gregGS
Sorry, but that's not the ignition barrel. That's to remove the ignition loom at the base of the steering/ignition unit.
It's Completely different way to remove the lock barrel.
As i've said you can only do it without causing any damage if you have the key.
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