Hi Paul 1961
I have imported two UK bikes now ,2002 FJR and 2010 GSA ,And had no problems
Getting them French plated .
1. Get a CofC from BMW UK should be free ( BMW France will sting you ! )
2. take your Sales Invoice to the tax office in France If you don’t have one just make one up. And ask for a Quittus Fiscal , You will need proof of address in France , passport . And V5 some times .This is free
3. Take you Quittus Fiscal , proof of address (Utility bill, ID ,C of C, V5,and some form of payment to the Prefecture.
4. Ask for a Demande de Certificate Immatriculation fill it in wait your turn pay and they will give you a paper A4 Carte Gris to allow you to get your reg plate then within a week the Full Carte Gris will turn up.
Most French Assurance company’s will give you cover on you UK plates until you get the Carte Gris .
As for changing head lights and Speedo I have never had to , I even sold the FJR to a French Gendarme.
A Few helpful sites to help you find out some of the general day to day tings you may need to know
http://www.totalfrance.com/france/forum/index.php
http://www.completefrance.com/cs/forums/
http://dordogne.angloinfo.com/forum/default.asp
And you could have a look at this
http://www.bikeclubfrance.com/index.php
shan