How to get 5v on a 1200GS?

  • Thread starter Thread starter power2learn
  • Start date Start date

power2learn

Guest
Hi,

I've just got a 1200GS <sweet> :) and am very happy with it.

I mainly use it for a twice weekly 226 mile round-trip to the office, and am going to get an autocom 'cos I'm feedup of squeezing my iPod headphones into my helmet.

That got me thinking I'd also like to be able to use my phone, mainly for SatNav courtesy of TomTom software and GPS receiver.

the RAMlink above has an aquabox and handlebar mount which should go on the tubular steel above the instruments, nicely in sight, for £40 all in, which is much better than the Otterbox solution I was otherwise looking at, for £95 :thumb .

So far, so good. But I'd really like to be able to power the phone / GPS receiver / iPod from the bike, so that I don't have to take a plethora of rechargers with me whenever I go on a trip. The problems is all these things run at 5V (USB standard gets everywhere these days).

Is there any way of getting a 5V supply off the GS, that is a) safe b) waterproof, and c) sensible????

Thanks.
 
yes - get on ebay and get a variable transformer for a car, and wire it in under the tank, with an in-line fuse, if it doesn't already have one - mine did.

I can have anything from 2 - 12V through mine. Cost about £6 if I recall correctly.
 
I've got a TomTom Go set up on the 12GS. That uses a 5v output from its own cigarette lighter dooburry.

So I took a switched 12v feed that spilts to the Starcom and to an in-line cigarette lighter socket (courtesy Maplins). The 5v output from this now feeds both the TTG and the iRiver 20gb Mp3.

As the Churchill dog says "Ahhhh Yessssss!" :thumb

(Forgot to mention - it all lives under the seat where the toolbox should be.)
 
Connect your cable to the battery, and before you connect it to your chosen device, to a voltmeter.
Aquire a suitable cable clamp, fit to the wire anywhere along its length, but its better to be nearer the battery end.
Sqeeze the wire using the cable clamp until the voltmeter reads 5volts.
If your bit of wire does not have sturdy enough insulation, it may balloon at the bit where the voltage is being held back. This is also why it is better to have the clamp nearer to the battery. You dont want electricity bursting out and spilling volts all over your engine ...or into your boots.

Alternatively ....... being a 1200, you could just leave it in the shed for two days and you will only get 5v from your battery.... if your lucky !

Glad to be of assistance.
 
Den said:
.

Alternatively ....... being a 1200, you could just leave it in the shed for two days and you will only get 5v from your battery.... if your lucky !

Glad to be of assistance.


:hapybnce: :hapybnce:
 
You need a switching power supply. Don't go for a traditional 5v regulator as they get rid of excess through heat and can't supply over 1Amp true current.

A switching regulator can be bought for £15 on ebay. Look for IPAQ 12v or similar. Chop the end of and there you go - upto 3A current and 98% efficency.
 
How to get 5v on a 1200gs..................

.................. it's a tricky one as there are already 4v on a 1200GS, (2v per cylinder). I can only imagine that you would want to add another valve as the 1200GS is much slower than the superior 1150 model :thumb
 
Bollocks!!!!! WTF am I talking about???? There are already 4v per cylinder, not 2!!!! In this case, it's easy, just drill another hole in either side and install the extra valve!!!! :confused:
 
power2learn said:
Hi, I've just got a 1200GS <sweet> :) and am very happy with it. I mainly use it for a twice weekly 226 mile round-trip to the office, and am going to get an autocom 'cos I'm feedup of squeezing my iPod headphones into my helmet. That got me thinking I'd also like to be able to use my phone, mainly for SatNav courtesy of TomTom software and GPS receiver. the RAMlink above has an aquabox and handlebar mount which should go on the tubular steel above the instruments, nicely in sight, for £40 all in, which is much better than the Otterbox solution I was otherwise looking at, for £95 :thumb . So far, so good. But I'd really like to be able to power the phone / GPS receiver / iPod from the bike, so that I don't have to take a plethora of rechargers with me whenever I go on a trip. The problems is all these things run at 5V (USB standard gets everywhere these days).
Is there any way of getting a 5V supply off the GS, that is a) safe b) waterproof, and c) sensible???? Thanks.

You need to look at http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62201 It does the lot. Simply get a female fag lighter socket from Halfords and wire it to a male BMW plug with a decent length of lead. Plug the igo into the female fag lighter and Bob's your whatsit.
 
Igo ‘smart’ transformer, three alternative power leads (one UK, one Continental, one car / aeroplane), various itips for assorted electrical devices, two connection leads.

igo006.jpg


Relative scale of igo and carry bag for the whole lot

igo007.jpg


Igo wired to phone and camera

igo001.jpg


same igo wired to camera and BlackBerry

igo002.jpg


The whole lot dumped into the tank bag with lead running to the front auxiliary power socket

igo005.jpg
 
Great product ..

Due to my work banning expansys website .. I had to use www.techpulsion.co.uk .. DON NOT USE THESE PEOPLE. EXPENSIVE AND NOT HELPFUL.

They lied and told me the charger did not come with any tips, but they do. So I had to fork out an extra £30 on tips that was already included. Not impressed. Hoping I can get some of that back.
 
Drill a hole in three of the cells, this'll ferk three of them, dropping the voltage to 6, near enough?
 
5V on bike

Try one of these - just got mine, bid 99p, got it for that + £4.98 from Hong Kong, arrived in 6 days - excellent website/tracking etc.

Sadly not BWM socket compatible, only the "usual" car cigar socket; but it gives 5V USB output from that and the mains (US 2 flat pin - fits shaver sockets).

Not sure if the mains facility is 110V only or can do 230V - waiting for answer from the supplier. I bought it to be a travel charger for my camera, PDA, sat nav etc which all have USB leads.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-USB-2-in-...hZ010QQcategoryZ96942QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

Good luck

A
 
I've managed to power my ipod and charge the phone at the same time by using a BWM plug to standard 12v car cigarette lighter socket and then just plug in a standard 12v USB charger.

I have also used a usb extender which basically splits into 4 USB sockets so that both ipod and phone can be charged at the same time, but really that's overkill.

All of the hardware lives in the top box, and I run the power from the acessory socket under the seat.
:thumb
 
I seem to have a problem with my set up, am running a 4 way fag lighter thingy from halfords from the aux socket.

works well, until i plug in a usb fag lighter thingy to charge either my ipaq for the tomtom or my ipod shuffle, then i get horrendous interference on my starcom advance,

any ideas?
 
scottykm said:
I seem to have a problem with my set up, am running a 4 way fag lighter thingy from halfords from the aux socket.

works well, until i plug in a usb fag lighter thingy to charge either my ipaq for the tomtom or my ipod shuffle, then i get horrendous interference on my starcom advance,

any ideas?

Yeah, there's some interference with audio devices (e.g. iPod, iPaq running tomtom) which are powered from the same source as the autocom.

There's a little isolater widget autocom sell (about £25 I think) that you need to put between the lead from the powered sources and the autocom unit - it takes two inputs, so will cover both of your devices.

T>
 
cookie said:
that igo stuff looks good.

It really is top kit.

I have no idea why they do not advertise it better.

Used mine day in day out, home and abroad, on the bike and in the car. Paid for itself many times over.
 


Back
Top Bottom