Fogs and driving lights at same time - good/bad idea?

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markyp

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Have done a search for this and not found anything similar so here goes...

Finally have some Hella ff50s and Micro De Fogs and a MigSel bar. My plan was to wire the fogs with the dip and the driving lights with the main beam. I don't know whether to wire up though to have the fogs come off when the driving lights come on - I guess I am thinking this way to reduce the overall power draw. I have an ADV with ABS so have a higher spec alternator.

Those that have this combination do they normally have everything lit up when the main beam is on?

Cheers,

Mark
 
Re: Spots and driving lights at same time - good/bad idea?

markyp said:

Those that have this combination do they normally have everything lit up when the main beam is on?

Oh yes. :thumb

Except I don't have fogs, just two sets of driving lights, one set angled down to come on with dipped beam.
 
I've got fogs on an autoswitch, and spots on main beam.... so i could have all four on at the same time.....

Draw is about 17 amps.

be aware that you'll be so bright that any cage or bike coming towards you will probably be driving right into you as they won't be able to see a bleedin thing past the glare.

And it roasts bunnies......which is nice.
 
Fogs with dipped, spots with main - the fogs become superfluous when you've got your main beam on, IMO (as well as making your bike look like a Lambretta from Quadrophenia).

If you want to get the fogs to go out when on main beam, try using the wiring diagram below (drawn by Gazza :thumb).

Ignore the Maplins relay numbers - just print the diagram out and take it along, they'll supply what you need...

6611878-L.jpg


Mike:)
 
Thanks all - very helpful - looks like I have something to do over Christmas. Might have to buy a heater for the garage though. So far things to fit include:

- Lights
- Tobinators
- Better horn
- Autocom

Hopefull next time I turn up at the Ace Cafe I'll still be working and not have the horn go off when I put main beam on.

:) M
 
Okay Mr markyp, so are you going with the "all on" or "Mike O mix and match"?

Not that I've got to wire up the same selection, oh no, and had the same question so want to find out what you got from that load of "advice"...

I'm kind of leaning to the Micro DE's on autoswitch, switched on with dipped outside daylight hours (using "dipped only" in good light to warn the boxwallahs) and spots with main.

Then of course I get the option to have it all on if I want to look like I'm riding a Lambretta, if I can only work out where to fit all the mirrors.
 
Markyp

Have the lot on when on main beam, Oh Yes, the alt is is 700 watts and the load with all of e'm on is 330 watts , that leaves more than enough for the rest of the bike and your heated vest.
 
My thoughts are to have the fogs go off when the main beam and driving spots go on for two reasons:

(1) Technically a more interesting solution

(2) Although the current draw "looks feasible" I can imagine a scenario where I have switched on heated grips, heated vest, GPS, lost in the snow, music playing, hit the brakes hard, ABS kicks in and the fuses blow. Call me paranoid.....!

Now some one will tell me it doesnt matter - all that will happen is that I momentarily drain the battery faster than I am charging it. Lectrics are all magic to me so I will major on my first reason!
 
Marky,

in addition to the circuit shown in the wiring diagram, I have an Autoswitch fitted to the fog lamp circuit, to allow me to switch them on & off independently.

Technically, the use of fog lamps in any conditions other than fog or falling snow is an offence. I've had no trouble in the 2 years and many miles I've ridden, but it allows you to switch them off if required to do so by any over-efficient plod you might encounter...

Mike:)
 
FF50 driving lights wired in via the main beam, so no switches to worry about, hit one switch and hey presto......main beam and driving lights.

Then Micro DE's wired in via the good 'ole Autoswitch, indicator cancel button switches them on or off...its that easy.

Put the main beam on and the DE's remain on. Why you would want to have the DEs go off when the main beam is switched on is beyond me...but each to thier own??

BTBR
 
Okay, BTBR has spoken. That's what I'll do.

Close this thread, nothing else to see here:D

With less pisstaking, that's what I thought was a sensible route to take - "never reduce your options unnecessarily". Make it possible to light yourself up like a Christmas tree just in case you need to help a Jumbo Jet land somewhere, you don't need to do it all the time.

Is it just me or do we seem to spend an inordinate amount of time worrying about being seen from the front but couldn't care if we are seen from the back? Is this an indicator that we all believe we're moving so fast nothing will overtake us?
 
Mike O said:

Technically, the use of fog lamps in any conditions other than fog or falling snow is an offence.

But if I remember correctly, they are only classed as fog lights if mounted a certain distance from the ground ... So possibly lights mounted on engine bars would fall foul of this restriction but ones mounted on a lightbar or similar wouldn't.
 
trotsky said:
Is it just me or do we seem to spend an inordinate amount of time worrying about being seen from the front but couldn't care if we are seen from the back?

Funnily enough I was wondering about this recently. With a single weedy 5W tail lamp, how visible is a GS from behind? I was thinking of getting some red reflective stickers to put on my panniers, but haven't found anything suitable yet.
 
trotsky said:

Is it just me or do we seem to spend an inordinate amount of time worrying about being seen from the front but couldn't care if we are seen from the back? Is this an indicator that we all believe we're moving so fast nothing will overtake us?

Well I like the solution to that that I've taken



attachment.php
 
Used Mike O's wiring diagram (:beerjug: Mike) with an autoswitch (:beerjug: Nippy Norman) to turn the fogs( :beerjug: Demon Tweeks) off if required. but the driving(:beerjug: GT Auto's Stafford) lamps come on with main beam with no optin to turn them off (couldn't see the point).
Also everything is soldered I hate scotchblock connecters, way to unreliable in damp conditions.

Oh and :beerjug: MiGSel for the Top quality Lightbar.
 
Mouse said:
But if I remember correctly, they are only classed as fog lights if mounted a certain distance from the ground ... So possibly lights mounted on engine bars would fall foul of this restriction but ones mounted on a lightbar or similar wouldn't.

Pretty sure the 'E' mark number will define whether it's a fog lamp or not (certainly does with rear ones). As I said, though, pretty much a moot point unless you are unlucky enough to come across a real pedant on a bad day - and then you can just offer to turn them off...

Mike:)
 
I agree scotch locks can give trouble and would solder every time, but for those solderphobes reliability can be improved by putting a blob of silicon on the joint prior to closing the little clippy thing.
Talking of rear end visibility, or not taking one up the rrrs, does anyone know where I can get some of that magic black tape that reflects red. I dont know if having white reflectors showing on the rear is strictly right.
 


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