A couple of questions about ebikes

NeverRodeBefore

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I commute by cycle all year round. I've done road race bikes, and a road bike I had converted to touring spec with mtb style brakes and triple ring crank, and rack mount etc (crashed so badly I don't remember it, so I never rode it again). I then went to hardtail mtbs for a while, before switching to nice lightweight hybrids that weren't silly money, as it's only for work.

I'm not getting fitter, in fact I'm getting progressively worse (lungs are shot). My route to work is mostly downhill and the 7 or so miles takes just under 30min (so probably 15mph avg but upwards of 20 I guess on the really downhill bit) Coming home however is taking about an hour, 45 mins on a good day? (Best times used to be 15 mins in, and 29 home) I've used the motorbike, but I didn't save any time due to gearing up and locking it away etc (thinking about it, I probably would save time now though?) and I don't like to use the car as my commute is basically the only exercise I get.

So, I'm thinking about ebikes. Not fancy carbon spec downhill mtbs, it's only for work really, but a hybrid style.

Question 1 - I have noticed that some ebikes come with massive rear sprocket ranges and a tiny front chain ring, but surely even with the rear set to it's smallest, your legs must be spinning like mad to get anywhere quickly? My legs are slightly disproportionate to the rest of me, so I can provide a lot of torque but not high rpm as I get out of breath too easily.

Question 2 - Just how easy is it to remove the rear wheel motor styles in the event of a puncture? I've convinced myself that it would be fiddly, and that I'd be better off with a mid-motor attached at the cranks, but I've heard that mid motors stress the chain leading to increased wear? I already go through a chain and rear sprockets once or twice a year depending on how neglectful I am and how much salt gets put down in winter?

Whilst I may not have deep pockets, I do have long arms to reach the bottom, and I'm having trouble convincing myself I should be spending £1700 on a Pinnacle Lithium Ion, or on a Specialized Turbo Vado 3.0 at £2400, or a Trek Dual Sport + 2020 Electric Hybrid Bike for £2900... A little more saving and I could get a Honda CT125 when they come out :green gri

As I sit here typing this I can appreciate the stupidity of having my Panda that goes out once a week for shopping, and the XT which sees very few miles really, but they are all bought and paid for, except for the road tax and insurances that are all coming up due in the next few months :blast

Oh, I also can't take advantage of the govt cycle to work scheme as the boss won't do it for just me... Plus, I don't like getting anything on a loan if I can avoid it now (been there, done that). If I can't afford it there and then, I'll do without it.
 
Can only answer one question.... the pedals aren't directly attached to that little front sprocket.... it is geared up, so spins faster than one's little legs!
 
That's questions 1 dealt with then :okay

I've never ridden an ebike and only had a look in the shops (when we could go to shops) but the choices were limited and not easy to tell what was connected to what.
 
Can only answer one question.... the pedals aren't directly attached to that little front sprocket.... it is geared up, so spins faster than one's little legs!

The one with the tiny front sprocket is the pre 2020 Bosch Performance Line CX motor that has a 2.5:1 gearbox. I have one with a 20 tooth sprocket that equates to a 50 tooth. The issue with these motors is that non assisted (over 16mph) it is pretty difficult to pedal - known as "hitting a brick wall" when going from assisted to non assisted. That said, this motor is very reliable and will certainly help you get up hill (with 75nm torque)!
 
My tip would be go for-the latest motor you can get...Brose are good but limited to expensive bikes. The latest 2020 Bosch are very good and available in more bikes.
 
Most e-bikes, and especially those under say £2k, are very heavy compared to even an average pedal only machine. Since an e-bike motor will be governed to 15mph cycling faster involves a huge physical effort (unless it’s a decent downhill ) so there’s no point in having big gears that would only work at >20mph.

The people I know who have gone down the e-bike route all say it transformed their cycling, they still get a good workout but can travel much further and don’t have to worry about getting stranded miles from home completely knackered.
 
Whatever you get, go for something with the 4th Gen Bosch motor. As mentioned, there’s no “wall” when you go over 15.5mph. Plus when your fitness levels go up, you can ride it as a normal bike, just don’t switch it on.
 
If your‘e really just interested in commuting take a look at https://revolutionworks.com Keep your existing bike and for £500 you are sorted

I bought this British made kit a year ago and am delighted with the result. I did splash out on an extra battery but others just order a second charger for the office. It took just under an hour and a few large zip ties to have it up and running

My battery is mounted in a soft bag on the carrier and you would be hard pushed to discern that it is anything other than a cheap and grotty town “runabout” that is most unlikely to be nicked from the office bikerack
 

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Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance, I'm surprised and a little disappointed in you Tim, most unlike you.

I intended to ride as far a possible to check the range....no need for concern.
 
Thanks for your post Kritou, that's not a route I'd considered... but I am now... I already have a rear rack and bag attached to it for my locks and a few tools, pump and spare tube, so I'm sure I could get the small battery in it.
 
Thanks for your post Kritou, that's not a route I'd considered... but I am now... I already have a rear rack and bag attached to it for my locks and a few tools, pump and spare tube, so I'm sure I could get the small battery in it.

One factor to consider is the length of the sensor cable that runs from the battery down to the sensor just above the bottom bracket. I needed a longer one than standard - Revos would advise, they are most helpful

Personally I would go for the 200W battery if it fits - I only chose two of the smaller ones as they can be carried in cabin baggage on planes
 


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