A ride around north central U.S.

Clifton

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It was late June and I wasn't looking forward to July 22 as I would turn 70 that day. Friends and family were asking what were my plans, could they have a party for me, etc. I finally said "Thanks for the offers but I think I'll just go on a ride, by myself."

Over the years, when working, we would ride to Colorado, Montana, Utah, etc., to go through Yellowstone or Glacier National Parks, or just ride the Rockies. But with limited vacation time we always rushed across and back through the central States usually on interstate highways. For this solo trip my plan was to ride through some of those States predominately on small 2-lane roads. Starting in Clifton Mills, WV my ride would be northwest up through Ohio and Michigan, across Mackinaw to Michigan Upper Peninsula, west across Wisconsin, Minnesota, North Dakota, to the northwest corner of Montana. Then south through Montana, Idaho to return across Wyoming, Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, to WV.

This map obviously doesn't show the small roads but it was basically as highlighted, counter clockwise starting from the eastern most point.



I debated between two bikes, my V85TT or 2022 Honda Goldwing, finally deciding on the Goldwing and I think it was a good choice. The Goldwing is stock other than a rear rack and centre stand and with only 1,927 miles tires were good and oil had been changed at 1,100. I took my 1-piece Roadcrafter suit for rain and cool, and a BMW Air jacket for hot conditions, camping gear, tools, tyre pump, a few changes of clothes, and lots of maps. I ended up camping 4 nights and staying in "budget motels" 7.

The terrain varied back and forth the whole trip from hilly to flat, and close to sea level to over 3,000 meters, and lush green to dry. I stopped at practically every road side "historic sign" along the way.

The Goldwing was delightful on such a ride and it never dipped below 40 mpg, typically 43-45. I think the heat and some of the rough chip seal roads contributed to the rear tyre wearing out at 6,700 miles but I was fortunate to find a Honda dealer along my route back on a Saturday morning to change it. The front made the whole trip, the bike now has 8,056 miles. The ride totaled 6,129 miles over 12 days. Speed limits were generally 60, 65, or 70 mph on the 2-lanes, 4-lanes 70-80 mph. I generally set the cruise about 7 over but when there was no one in sight would wick it up a little. The fastest I saw was about 110 just to do it but the bike often just purred along at 85 to 90. Anyway a few pics I took along the way.

Ohio I saw this place selling little mini trucks, not all that muck bigger than the Goldwing! :)


There are a lot of campgrounds in Michigan's U.P. This was my second night.


From the side of Rt 2 across southern U.P. looking at Lake Michigan.


This was in a small town (I believe in North Dakota).


Later that evening a car arrived so there were 2 of us at this motel in Sterling N.D. When I called ahead to reserve she said she wouldn't be around but "room 7 will be unlocked with the key laying on the bed, make yourself at home and I'll catch up with you later.


Hard to grasp the size of some of these farmers buildings. Those trucks you can barely see beside it are large 18 wheel freight trucks. After seeing these I decided my thought of having a 24' x 36' metal building constructed beside my garage is not excessive!


I took this stone road for 30 miles or so and only saw one pick up truck.


I'm not sure what the significance of these were along a road?


I looked it up and I believe Amidon has a population of 21 people.


Another road I took near Bowman ND. I guess these two cars ran off the road years ago and they just left them.


Crossed into Montana on a hot July 24th. Temperature (left gauge) showed 105f, later hit 107. It was 102 at 7pm when I pulled into a motel. This was the hottest day of the trip.


The following day just making time across eastern Montana.


30 minutes of rising elevation later it's cooler, more green, and even a few trees.


Later that afternoon.


The following day and higher elevation.



That night at a State campground near Whitefish Montana.


The following morning.


I took this pic for scale to show how large the rows of large square stacks of hay bales are, I believe it was 2 rows deep. This was not even one of the large rows but it was accessible to park the bike beside.


Idaho





Later in Idaho up where the Salmon River begins.


Some more straight roads, this one in Wyoming, that I find fascinating because there's just nothing like them in West Virginia.


Having the rear tyre replaced. This "Honda" dealer in Nebraska also sells Kubota and Bobcat tractors, chain saws, side by sides, etc. so I enjoyed browsing while he worked on my bike. The 200 series Dunlop tyre (the same as what I had) was expensive at $320 but total labour was a reasonable $41.


Later that day after my new tyre at a State campground in Nebraska.



And a bourbon over ice in my plastic wine glass.


North Platte Nebraska golden spike tourist attraction for supposedly the worlds largest rail yard. There were hundreds of locomotives as far as I could see and I son't know how many tracks. I don't know why I didn't take a pic of it?


Monday morning at 6am in south western Iowa . I just left the motel and was still riding in a storm with a lot of lightening but it was clear ahead and the sun was coming up. I was able to stay ahead of it and by 11 the front had passed to the south.


30 minutes later this is looking west toward the gray sky with the sun coming up from behind.


The rolling road was state Rt 2 which goes the entire width of Iowa near the bottom and was delightful. At the eastern end near Illinois I decided that rather than getting a motel somewhere in Indiana or Ohio that evening I'd just ride another 5 and get home at 11:30.
 
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Nice one Clifton, a great way to celebrate still being young.

North Platte Nebraska golden spike tourist attraction for supposedly the worlds largest rail yard. There were hundreds of locomotives as far as I could see and I son't know how many tracks. I don't know why I didn't take a pic of it?
I had never heard of this place before. Just checked it out, it looks to be 5 miles long and a mile wide.... that is some rail yard.
 
Brilliant Clifton.
You're two years ahead of me and I admire your trip.
Did you ride the US12 from Missoula, Montana due west across Idaho next to the Lochsa River? 100 miles of bends - heaven!
My favourite road!
 
That looks like a cracking ride and a nice report and pics.
 
Good one, thank you for giving us the pictures. Living in central London, it is hard to imagine the seemingly endless wide open spaces.
 
Thank you!
Paul I originally thought it was where the transcontinental railroad joined but that was in Utah, this is just a huge rail centre.
Khulu no I didn't take 12 west through Lolo pass this time rather south along the Salmon river which was really nice. I wanted to start heading south and east and Lolo goes west, and I've ridden it a few times in the past.
Wapping, yes very different from really any large city. Although I was right there I avoided the 2 big tourist destinations of Yellowstone and Glacier, I can't even imagine the caravans of motor homes and campers in July! I believe now one must get a reservation to even go on Going-to-the-sun road to Glacier. These are spectacular parks but I've seen them a few times prior and this trip my focus was more on solitude and remoteness.

I tried to stay in cheap motels but nevertheless I'm not looking forward to my credit card bill! The prices I paid (including tax) ranged from $57 to $130, most were around $90. This is up from a few years back but so is everything over here now. But still much less expensive than the northeast like Main, Vermont, NY, Mass, etc.
 
Thank you!
Paul I originally thought it was where the transcontinental railroad joined but that was in Utah, this is just a huge rail centre.
Khulu no I didn't take 12 west through Lolo pass this time rather south along the Salmon river which was really nice. I wanted to start heading south and east and Lolo goes west, and I've ridden it a few times in the past.
Wapping, yes very different from really any large city. Although I was right there I avoided the 2 big tourist destinations of Yellowstone and Glacier, I can't even imagine the caravans of motor homes and campers in July! I believe now one must get a reservation to even go on Going-to-the-sun road to Glacier. These are spectacular parks but I've seen them a few times prior and this trip my focus was more on solitude and remoteness.

I tried to stay in cheap motels but nevertheless I'm not looking forward to my credit card bill! The prices I paid (including tax) ranged from $57 to $130, most were around $90. This is up from a few years back but so is everything over here now. But still much less expensive than the northeast like Main, Vermont, NY, Mass, etc.
I've also ridden in 104F (40C) and it's real hot!
However, I've ridden at -30C in Canada with dry snow blowing across the road - scary!
I'm not sure which is worse.
 
Thank you Clifton - I enjoyed that very much.

A highlight of my time riding my bike in that area was a visit to a Minuteman silo and an underground command centre near Wall SD.

The land is vast but there is so much of interest, historically and other wise. :thumb2
 
Great trip and write up and on the perfect bike for the job. I will get a Gold Wing one day. I also noticed your birthday, you are 12 years older than me to the day, all the best people were born on the 22nd of July.
 
Interesting.

Must have been difficult riding with all that traffic.......:).

Thanks for posting.
 
Hi
I didn't read every word , but if I understood correctly , your bike only had about 2000 miles on it ?. If that is correct , then be prepared for a pleasant surprise ..... by the time you pass somewhere in the order of 6000 to 8000 miles (in my case it was about 6000) - your mpg should have got a lot better. Your US 45 mpg equates to 54mpg UK . Great you may think. Last year we did a 6000 mile round trip to Istanbul ++ in just over 4 weeks, overall consumption was 61.3mpg (best tank 68.2 , very worst 54.2 .... on UK mainland pushing on to catch boat at Harwich (bike had 15000 on it when we started).
Just FYI. Mine at 2000 miles was typically in the 50-52mpg range , and I was not happy when everyone told me how much better their new 1800 was compared to the older 1800 !! ... interesting.
 
Fantastic Clifton. “ I think I’ll just go on a ride, by myself”. Live your best life.....you certainly are. :thumby:
 
Khulu I think I'll take 104f (40c) over -22f (-30c), I don't ride below 4c unless necessary. The heat was a little uncomfortable but not horrible as it was pretty dry so evaporative cooling was effective wetting my shirt. I don't know how those up in North Dakota, Maine, Montana, or most all of Canada even cope with Winter? I can't imagine the energy it takes to keep their homes warm? And Winter is so long too. They get the worst of both because with the sun so intense in Summer plus being so far inland there's no large body of water to moderate their climate hence the 107 in Montana.

wilbjr21 I stayed in Wall once but didn't know there is an underground command centre there our I would have toured it. I did tour the Titan Missile Museum south of Phoenix AZ a few years ago and found it fascinating. I recommend any of you who may be in the area visit it. https://titanmissilemuseum.org/#:~:text=At the Titan Missile Museum,States from 1963 to 1987.

Ok you youngster, Mike!

Doc I dislike traffic especially trucks and worse the massive RV's so I tried to avoid those roads and did so pretty well, other than the second day afternoon when riding up the west side of Michigan near the top and Traverse City. I knew that area was touristy but didn't realize just how much. Then when I saw traffic backed up on the Mackinaw bridge I was concerned the UP would be mobbed, fortunately it wasn't bad. From there on I saw very little traffic until near Yellowstone for an hour or so.

Cortina yes 1,900 at the start and now 8,000. I didn't even check it the last couple days so that it improves is good to hear. I check it again next time I ride, which won't be until after changing the oil though. Over 6,000 on conventional oil (Honda GN10w-30) is longer than I ever have gone. I'll probably switch to Rotella T6 15w-40 from now on.

Thank you G&T, yes it's the only way I know how to live now. :)

Mzokk (y)
 
Nice one Clifton. Looks a nice place to ride and camp.
 
Good riding and some nice camping as well, Doc. This time of year the lower elevations in central US can be warm, plus no shade in the prairie. Wooded places and higher elevations are perfect, in fact in 2 places I got pretty cold in my light weight sleeping bag.
 
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Montana, Wyoming, those lovely descriptions of the terrain read like some of Pirsig's chapters.

Thanks for sharing, it's really interesting to read about a kind of riding that's so different from what we're used to in Europe.
 


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