BMW Heated Grips Connector to Main Loom

[robc76]

Morning all,
When I was investigating the state of my 1150GS's wiring loom recently, I discovered a previous owner had broken the connector for the heated grips and proceeded to tape them together. Both the connector block at the loom end and the corresponding one for the grips are badly damaged. This Heath Robinson fix has worked for the 14 years I've had the bike but now that I've uncovered this I feel I need to fix it. Does anyone know if it is possible to purchase new connector blocks with tails so they can be soldered onto the existing wires? If so, can I have a link please? The existing connectors are so badly damaged I cannot tell from pictures which ones would be the correct fitment. On the other hand, perhaps any waterproof connector will work?

RobC

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Morning all,
When I was investigating the state of my 1150GS's wiring loom recently, I discovered a previous owner had broken the connector for the heated grips and proceeded to tape them together. Both the connector block at the loom end and the corresponding one for the grips are badly damaged. This Heath Robinson fix has worked for the 14 years I've had the bike but now that I've uncovered this I feel I need to fix it. Does anyone know if it is possible to purchase new connector blocks with tails so they can be soldered onto the existing wires? If so, can I have a link please? The existing connectors are so badly damaged I cannot tell from pictures which ones would be the correct fitment. On the other hand, perhaps any waterproof connector will work?

RobC

MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - R1150GS (R21)

BMW Parts for your R1150GS (R21) Production: 09/98-11/03 USA

shop.maxbmw.com

Lastly Heated Grips parts

MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - R1150GS (R21)

BMW Parts for your R1150GS (R21) Production: 09/98-11/03 USA

shop.maxbmw.com

There's a link to all the electrical connector repair parts for a 1150, part numbers will be the same for UK bikes and you can choose which connector plugs you need and use the OEM ones, all can be ordered from a UK BMW Motorrad dealer

EDIT - the links don't go to the individual diagrams, sorry..............but scroll down to electrical system and they're all there

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Something like this….

I’m happy to send you the complete loom and connector as shown, but personally I wouldn’t bother. The connector block uses standard motor industry Lucar connectors 2.8mm males. With the heated grip ends using standard 2.8mm female connectors. You always have to strip the heated grip connectors out of the small black plastic housing to pass them through the handlebars anyway, which is probably why yours are all broken. Besides, they aren’t water proof. If it was me, I would remove the male connectors from the damaged connector block and individually connect them to their corresponding female connector from the heated grip wire and use some heat shrink sleaving with internal glue to cover the connector. That way, you have made them water proof and kept the wiring as standard.

 

[robc76]

Thank you JohnnyBoxer. I'll se if I can identify the correct plugs.

Ian, removing the male connectors and shoving them into the female connector is what has already been done. Wrapped up with insulating tape it did the job for all these years. If I decide against new connectors, I may glue the existing male/female with a hot glue gun and wrap that with tape. So long as it is a solid and waterproof connector it should be good for a few more years.

RobC

 

[Paul Young]

…If I decide against new connectors, I may glue the existing male/female with a hot glue gun and wrap that with tape. So long as it is a solid and waterproof connector it should be good for a few more years.

RobC

I would be careful about making it a ‘permanent‘ connection since heated grips can break and need replacement. Glued heat shrink and hot glue could make it a bit difficult to separate the plugs in the future.

 

[robc76]

I would be careful about making it a ‘permanent‘ connection since heated grips can break and need replacement. Glued heat shrink and hot glue could make it a bit difficult to separate the plugs in the future.

Fair point. Replacement connectors are my preference.

RobC

 

[robc76]

It turns out the connector in question is for the front brake light switch. Just thought I'd add this for completeness. I really just need the male side as the female side looks ok. Still trying to find one.

RobC

 

[Ian J Hartley]

When you say male connector, are you referring to the main loom connector, or the connector that leads off to the brake microswitch.

The Connector should have some numbers on it. One will be an AMP part No and the other will be a BMW number.

Amp, now Tyco used to make all the connectors for the BMW bike and car range back in the day, and they were exclusive to BMW only.

I have a two pin connector which came off an old R1150GS loom, but can’t remember whether it’s for the front brake switch. It’s marked as AMP 1-828815-1 and BMW 1378106, which translates to BMW 61131378106. So don’t take these numbers as gospel until you check.

 

[robc76]

I can't see the numbers on the male connector as the plug is not present. Just the two wires with the pins which are inserted into the brake light switch socket and wrapped with insulation tape. It's been like this for at least the 14 years I've had the bike. So to answer your question, Ian, yes, it is the connector coming from the loom - the bit this plugs into:



The MAX BMW parts page only lists switch side of the connection and not the loom side.

Regards

RobC

 

[Ian J Hartley]

You would be hard pressed to get anything from BMW At this late stage.

Do a Google search on the numbers I gave you.

Some of the car breakers on eBay May also have what you are looking for as the same connector was fitted to cars of that period. The breakers usually supply the connector with wires, which isn’t what you want as to extract the pins needs a special tool to compress the contact locking tabs.

The tool is inserted from the contact side to depress the locking tabs which are a part of the contact. The wire and contact can then be withdraw from the wire side, just to give you an idea of how the connector and contacts are assembled.

PS.
if you get no joy, then PM me your address, and I’ll send you the connector I have.